hello to the 1st gen section, picked up a 1st gen, tell me what u think, some??
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,678
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From: LEE,MA
hello to the 1st gen section, picked up a 1st gen, tell me what u think, some??
Well, some of you may know me from the second gen section, well today i picked up 85 GSL, tell me what u think itz worth, then ill say what i paid.., well the car had been setting for like 2 weeks on the side of the road in the snow, i showed up, guy put the key in, fired Rite up, no smoke ran wonderfull, the idle surges alittle at low rpms(but what rotary dont) heeh, but there is some rust starting in the wheel wells and ft fenders, not bad yet, there is a little on the bottom too(see pics) not sure how serious it is.. lemme know, but yah, it has 128k miles, and i yet to check the compression (12A compression numbers the same as 13B???) but ummm it came with a huge folder of recepts of everything put into it, itz been painted sometime in itz life, but ya tell me what u think of it...










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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,247
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From: Allentown, PA - Paterson, NJ
I wouldnt worry about the rust but do get at least treated with something to prevent from rusting any further. Looks sweet! Actually as far as I know, red w/ grey interior is pretty common. I'd say you paid anywhere from $500- $1000 for it........Am I right?
The rust you are showing is in the same spot that it first shows up in most 1st gens. It can range from a minor repair to a total loss depending on how bad it is once you get down into it. Basically, there are two layers of sheet metal in the front of the rear wells. Water gets in between them from some holes in the outer layer and rusts the car from the inside out. By the time you can see it, it needs to be repaired. If you didn't notice it and it gets out of hand, the rear suspension mounting surfaces can totally disintegrate and the chassis needs major repair. Take out the rear storage bins and assess the situation.
Side of the road. $50
Side of the road. $50
Last edited by purple82; Dec 3, 2005 at 04:48 PM.
Compression numbers will be the same as the 13B. Looking at your location and the preliminary pics of the rust, keep your fingers crossed. That kills as many 1st gens as a bad motors do.
Good luck with it, you will find the handling quite different than the FC's. They are very easy to turn into skateboards with the right suspension mods. Love the gray interior.
Good luck with it, you will find the handling quite different than the FC's. They are very easy to turn into skateboards with the right suspension mods. Love the gray interior.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,678
Likes: 5
From: LEE,MA
yeah, im praying that rust aint that bad, i will tear the bins out, and investigate and repair, i will do a compression test tommarow too, how can i cut fuel on the carb, so i dont flood it??
Btw thanx for the help so far
Btw thanx for the help so far
The carbed engines don't flood the same way the fi ones do. With the drivers side bin out, you will find a wire pair that goes through a grommet in the floor. Disconnect the connecter there, that is the fuel pump.
If it's flooding, then it's time to learn about the wonderful world of carbys. The Haynes manual has a decent R&R section on them.
In regards to the rust, look underneath too, especially where the upper and lower links connect to the body.
If it's flooding, then it's time to learn about the wonderful world of carbys. The Haynes manual has a decent R&R section on them.
In regards to the rust, look underneath too, especially where the upper and lower links connect to the body.
On the compression test just remove the fuel pump fuse from the underdash fusebox. keep pedal to floor and same procedures as your 13B. I told you someday you would get a 1st gen. I have a TII but my love is with the 1st gens.. can't beat them...Congrats again..























