Having trouble trying to start after long hibernation
09-05-15, 11:46 AM
#28
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Location: Bluffdale, Utah
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Yes, original owner, and yes it brings back sweet memories every time I drive it.
Thanks for the head's up on the water pump. Always nice to have all the replacement parts and gaskets BEFORE removing it.
The minor rust appears to be just that, very localized near where I drilled small holes to screw the mud flaps to the fender lip inside the wheel wells. I suspect the hole exposed untreated steel to the elements and corrosion spread from the hole area or underneath damaged topcoat paint.
Thanks for the head's up on the water pump. Always nice to have all the replacement parts and gaskets BEFORE removing it.
The minor rust appears to be just that, very localized near where I drilled small holes to screw the mud flaps to the fender lip inside the wheel wells. I suspect the hole exposed untreated steel to the elements and corrosion spread from the hole area or underneath damaged topcoat paint.
Sweet! nice resurrection - and by the original owner? even better. Hope it makes you feel the same age as you were when you bought the car. Mine does. Thanks for updating your Thread.
Water pump - beware when you pull the main pump body off the block there is ONE mount point which also requires a washer/gasket around that bolt point, to allow the body to flush-up correctly to the front iron. You will see it when you pull it off, one of the upper ones…
Fender rust: If your "minor rust" at mudguards turns out to be just that, (minor) it will be a first (if we are talking the rear fenders) - notorious rust point. Remove the tail lights, get a flashlight in there and brace yourself. Sorry. Been there. POR15 is your friend…
Keep your GF away from the car…
Stu
80GS
Alaska
Water pump - beware when you pull the main pump body off the block there is ONE mount point which also requires a washer/gasket around that bolt point, to allow the body to flush-up correctly to the front iron. You will see it when you pull it off, one of the upper ones…
Fender rust: If your "minor rust" at mudguards turns out to be just that, (minor) it will be a first (if we are talking the rear fenders) - notorious rust point. Remove the tail lights, get a flashlight in there and brace yourself. Sorry. Been there. POR15 is your friend…
Keep your GF away from the car…
Stu
80GS
Alaska
09-06-15, 05:10 AM
#29
Seafoam: I am a fan. I run the first tank of the season (on all my vehicles BTW) with a full bottle added. (Actually, since it goes into winter storage, the Seafoam goes into the tank then, to keep the gas from going bad). Seafoam is recommended to keep carbon build up in the block. Smart $8 spent for me annually.
Plugs- I use the 3 prongs on my 80 with the electronic ignition. Racing Beat has a nice write-up on their site about plug applications, worth a read.
Trailing no-fire: I thought I'd read somewhere that with Cali emissions, there is times when only the leading plugs fire (over 2000 rpm?). The Cali RX7s are a bit of a different breed, so do be careful about applying 49-state service info to them for some areas of operation…
Stu
80GS
Alaska
01-31-16, 03:49 PM
#30
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Update...
Been dealing with a flooding issue in the front secondary, which of course makes the car un-drivable. Managed to jiggle the front float a little and that seems to have fixed it. Idling fine, pulls strong with no flat spots. Float must have been stuck in the down position, so the needle never closed off the fuel flow.
Going to feed a steady diet of ethanol-free gas from now on. Not sure if that was the root of the problem, but I don't like the idea of ethanol in gas anyway. I can get it locally for only a small premium above 10% ethanol gas. Oh, and a can of seafoam now and then.
next - tires, wheels?, and a much needed alignment
The Goodyear NCTs barely have any tread left and they are scaring me now. Bought in '82, I think they are ready for replacement. Running 205/60-13, want to move up to 15" wheels but not many choices out there these days.
Been dealing with a flooding issue in the front secondary, which of course makes the car un-drivable. Managed to jiggle the front float a little and that seems to have fixed it. Idling fine, pulls strong with no flat spots. Float must have been stuck in the down position, so the needle never closed off the fuel flow.
Going to feed a steady diet of ethanol-free gas from now on. Not sure if that was the root of the problem, but I don't like the idea of ethanol in gas anyway. I can get it locally for only a small premium above 10% ethanol gas. Oh, and a can of seafoam now and then.
next - tires, wheels?, and a much needed alignment
The Goodyear NCTs barely have any tread left and they are scaring me now. Bought in '82, I think they are ready for replacement. Running 205/60-13, want to move up to 15" wheels but not many choices out there these days.
02-01-16, 09:50 PM
#32
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I've come to that conclusion myself. They just don't make them anymore, or they aren't available in the US.
Choices in wheels are pretty slim too...I like the mesh style, but who makes them to fit the bolt pattern and offset? Looks like Enkei doesn't sell them anymore. Used wheels make me nervous, but I may be SOL.
I am thinking of restoring my original waffles as per your posts. They are pretty unique wheels, too bad they are 13"
I "think" there are 185/70-13's available new. That would be an act of desperation, but at least I could run the original waffles.
Choices in wheels are pretty slim too...I like the mesh style, but who makes them to fit the bolt pattern and offset? Looks like Enkei doesn't sell them anymore. Used wheels make me nervous, but I may be SOL.
I am thinking of restoring my original waffles as per your posts. They are pretty unique wheels, too bad they are 13"
I "think" there are 185/70-13's available new. That would be an act of desperation, but at least I could run the original waffles.
02-02-16, 07:51 AM
#33
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I've come to that conclusion myself. They just don't make them anymore, or they aren't available in the US.
Choices in wheels are pretty slim too...I like the mesh style, but who makes them to fit the bolt pattern and offset? Looks like Enkei doesn't sell them anymore. Used wheels make me nervous, but I may be SOL.
I am thinking of restoring my original waffles as per your posts. They are pretty unique wheels, too bad they are 13"
I "think" there are 185/70-13's available new. That would be an act of desperation, but at least I could run the original waffles.
Choices in wheels are pretty slim too...I like the mesh style, but who makes them to fit the bolt pattern and offset? Looks like Enkei doesn't sell them anymore. Used wheels make me nervous, but I may be SOL.
I am thinking of restoring my original waffles as per your posts. They are pretty unique wheels, too bad they are 13"
I "think" there are 185/70-13's available new. That would be an act of desperation, but at least I could run the original waffles.
pattern with a good offset. They are basically a panasport/minilite knockoff and
are priced right and look very good. I just got a set myself now I have to get some
shoes on them.
02-04-16, 04:05 AM
#34
Michelin and Vredsteins avai in 13/185-70 and 13/205-60 but very $$: Coker tire, summit racing
Chinese (Federal for eg) 185 and 205s for around $70/tire, usually w Free shipping. Just a reg street tire, but I guess we can't be too picky for now...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Chinese (Federal for eg) 185 and 205s for around $70/tire, usually w Free shipping. Just a reg street tire, but I guess we can't be too picky for now...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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