Hauling an '85 GSL-SE on a trailer
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Hauling an '85 GSL-SE on a trailer
I've done some searching and haven't turned up anything that appears relevant, but if I missed a thread that explains this, please go easy on me.
I'm arranging to buy an 85 GSL-SE from a friend of mine, however, it's not a runner. We *think* that the only problem is the starter, however, I'm not interested in roll-starting the car for the 30 mile drive to my garage. ( -a- If the engine is seized, I'd like to keep the damage to a minimum, -b- It also has some idle problems and I'd rather not have to get out and push at every stoplight)
The car is currently in his driveway, which is at a slope which could best be described as somewhere between slight and moderate. It is enough, I believe, to provide enough gravity power to roll the car onto a u-haul trailer (not the dolly, the full, all-wheels-off-the-ground trailer), but not enough of a slope to cause a lot of scraping one end of the car comes off the driveway and onto the trailer.
Unfortunately, when the car was brought, by tow truck, into his driveway, it was put in nose-first. I can't see any way to roll the car onto the trailer with the nose towards the front of the trailer. Obviously, the trailer is designed to operate with the car pointing to the front of the trailer, thus putting the lion's share of the weight (the engine) towards the front, increasing the tongue weight. By placing the car backwards, I fear that the weight distribution will shift, causing the trailer to want to lift off the ball. The only thing that is in my favor here, is that as I understand it, the car has a very close front-to-rear weight distribution thanks to the relatively low weight of the engine.
Here's my question: If I put the car on backwards, is the weight distribution of the RX-7 such that the trailer will remain "balanced enough"? And, if the answer is "no", would the addition of about three or four hundred pounds of sandbags to the front of the trailer be enough to compensate for the lighter weight of the rear of the car? I've only got to take it about 30 miles, and I was planning on avoiding highway speeds.
TIA!
I'm arranging to buy an 85 GSL-SE from a friend of mine, however, it's not a runner. We *think* that the only problem is the starter, however, I'm not interested in roll-starting the car for the 30 mile drive to my garage. ( -a- If the engine is seized, I'd like to keep the damage to a minimum, -b- It also has some idle problems and I'd rather not have to get out and push at every stoplight)
The car is currently in his driveway, which is at a slope which could best be described as somewhere between slight and moderate. It is enough, I believe, to provide enough gravity power to roll the car onto a u-haul trailer (not the dolly, the full, all-wheels-off-the-ground trailer), but not enough of a slope to cause a lot of scraping one end of the car comes off the driveway and onto the trailer.
Unfortunately, when the car was brought, by tow truck, into his driveway, it was put in nose-first. I can't see any way to roll the car onto the trailer with the nose towards the front of the trailer. Obviously, the trailer is designed to operate with the car pointing to the front of the trailer, thus putting the lion's share of the weight (the engine) towards the front, increasing the tongue weight. By placing the car backwards, I fear that the weight distribution will shift, causing the trailer to want to lift off the ball. The only thing that is in my favor here, is that as I understand it, the car has a very close front-to-rear weight distribution thanks to the relatively low weight of the engine.
Here's my question: If I put the car on backwards, is the weight distribution of the RX-7 such that the trailer will remain "balanced enough"? And, if the answer is "no", would the addition of about three or four hundred pounds of sandbags to the front of the trailer be enough to compensate for the lighter weight of the rear of the car? I've only got to take it about 30 miles, and I was planning on avoiding highway speeds.
TIA!
#6
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The trip should be fine and the weight distrobution is good just move it a little farther forward than the trailor axels. I would advise a dually. If your going to let gravity do the work make sure those brakes work. Your not going to have good brakes as it is without the engine running. Hate to see you pay for the uhaul trailor.
Hint one: Make sure the trailor hitch is securly connected to the ball on the tow vehicle. (im speaking from experience on this one. your wheels will hit the ramp of the trailor and send the hitch flying upward. I fortunatly had to damage to the tow vehicle. Was funny as hell to watch.
Hint two: watch the clearance on the crest of the trailor a little drag wont hurt much.
Hint three: this is one that will help you get it on the trailor. I dont think you will be able to push it unless you have alot of people there. I learned this trick while moving military cargo. Take two straps. anchor one end of each strap to the front end of the trailor. Connect the other end to the tow points in front of the car. now tighten both one of them, leave the other loose but connected. Once it is tight have a friend standing by on the other strap. Now use your legs and pull straight up on the strap. Right when you have it up have your friend tighten his. Now loosen yours and have him pull up on his. keep doing this till the rear tires crest. once the front get over its alot easier but still too much to push
Good luck
Hint one: Make sure the trailor hitch is securly connected to the ball on the tow vehicle. (im speaking from experience on this one. your wheels will hit the ramp of the trailor and send the hitch flying upward. I fortunatly had to damage to the tow vehicle. Was funny as hell to watch.
Hint two: watch the clearance on the crest of the trailor a little drag wont hurt much.
Hint three: this is one that will help you get it on the trailor. I dont think you will be able to push it unless you have alot of people there. I learned this trick while moving military cargo. Take two straps. anchor one end of each strap to the front end of the trailor. Connect the other end to the tow points in front of the car. now tighten both one of them, leave the other loose but connected. Once it is tight have a friend standing by on the other strap. Now use your legs and pull straight up on the strap. Right when you have it up have your friend tighten his. Now loosen yours and have him pull up on his. keep doing this till the rear tires crest. once the front get over its alot easier but still too much to push
Good luck
#7
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You need 10 to 15 percent of the gross weight (of the trailer and car) on the ball for the trailer to track straight. The axle of the trailer is already set for this, so all you have to do is set the car centred over the axle to keep this ratio. If in doubt, move the car towards the front of the trailer and watch your tow vehicle's bumber sag down as it gets the extra weight.
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