Don't know what the deal is...

When I go to start it, it'll sit there and spin and spin (like it's not firing, it seems like it's a real weak spark compared to say my gf's camaro).

It was in the day time so that probably made a diff.

When it starts, instead of blowing smoke bombs like it used to it, it now sends puffs of oil for a good 5-10 seconds (if it's just now getting started after sitting all night, when I just re-crank it it doesn’t blow smoke everywhere).

The timing was just set right, which we think is right (IE yellow dot, red dot on the pin) and it idles at 800 RPM when it wants to now, when I first start it up the choke doesn’t engage like it used to (idle at 2,100 until the engine was warm) so often I have to hold down the gas to keep it from DIEING.

I tried switching the ignitors around, they are both working. I'm also hitting a wall of power at 6.5k rpm when the timing's right, you can literally feel it loose all power HOWEVER when you advance or retard the timing (pretty sure advance) it's not noticeable, but I did watch it and it's semi-there, just not as bad.

The plugs have had fuel on them many times flooding wise, I don't know if that would be causing it.

My thunderbird works now so I have a new daily driver and my go-fast car (rx7)!

- Tech

 

Strip the damn thing down and carb it... I'm all out of ideas man.

 

Pull out one spark plug wire at a time. if the engine continues to run with no changes in idle, check your compression.

 

I'm not going to pull the plugs while the engines running screw that!

I got zapped bad last time.

 

then find a "REAL ROTARY MECHANIC"

 

They make insulated spark plug boot pullers.

 

I'm getting tired of dumping money into the problem trying different sensors and what not.

Is there any way to run a diagnostics on it at all? I know it's got an ECC so something's got to be there.

- Tech

 

check spark by laying plugs still attached to spark plug wires against body and turn ignition key, if you have a spark then try putting in "el cheapo" autolite plugs in. Your OEM plugs may be fouled. Pouring 1/4 cup methanol, fast gas or dry gas into the engine has always deflooded my engine. Ether spray has never worked.

Oil in your exhaust points to blown seals, you can do a cheap compression check by removing the 4 plugs and turning the ignition key. If a rotor/seal is bad, it will sound different and the buffs of air through the spark plug hole will feel different. If the compression test is bad, then you are looking at a rebuilt engine.

Also with your fuel injection, vacuum leaks can be an issue. If your air/fuel ratio is high, the sparkplug's insulator will be red, and not tan.

 

Yes,

I got scoled for trying the spark plug test thing, they did spark just a smaller spark than what I'm used to (i.e. Camaro Coil Packs,etc).

Is there a sure-fire way to test for a Vacuum Leak? I think that's my problem.

As for compression I cant keep my hand on the hole when I crank it so that's not the problem. The oil would be spouting all the time and at WOT right, so I dont think thats it.

This car has more gremlins than I've seen in ANY car, time to load up the shotgun.

- Tech