thunder01

Finally some nice weather, got the 7 going on the weekend and it fired up pretty good after sitting all winter. Did some stuff to it over the winter......replaced fuel sending unit in tank, fuel filter. Re did the wall and bracket where the bin rust is. repainting interior from doors back (SEM Burgundy perfect match trochoid) and just alot of fixing broken plastic etc. car looks great but works not so great.
My son is learning to drive the stick and if he doesn't stall it's fine, but if he stalls it will not start. If I wait 10-15 minutes and have lots of battery with my foot to the floor it will start after cranking the **** out of it. when it did it in the driveway i pulled the plugs because i read of the flooding issue and the plugs were bone dry.
Also checked the air flow damper door thingy and it is free and working.
I do have the odd drink but jesus loves me... but I swear it only does it on uneven sufaces. I can pull in the garage and shut it off wait a few seconds and it will start every time without touching the gas....go figure?? Don't mean to bother anyone but any ideas would be great.

Also I haven't yet but have new plugs coming tonight.

drunkclever

What kind of car is it? 'se? 12a?

might need to rebuild the carb? If plugs are bone dry then maybe your not getting fuel down the intake. Or maybe a more complete tune up is in order.

While your at it try to "upgrage" the ignition system to one of the mods thats all over the forums.

Try using some of that seafoam stuff.

My car had been sitting all year as well. I just bought a new battery and added a few drops of gas down the carb and she turned over very quick. Then again I do have a MSD setup.

just trying to help,
drunkclever

thunder01

Thanks man but it is a 84 gsl-se 13b FI

drunkclever

low gas?
water in the gas tank?
Did you change the filter and then the sending unit or the other way around?
Verify spark?
try the seafoam treatment

or you could just get so mad at your car that will drive it over to my house and sign the title to me for free?? <-- definately the answer!!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Check the fuel level in both fuel bowl sight glasses. There is a tiny notch in the center of each one. That's where the fuel level should be. You will need a flexible mirrior and flashlight to see the rear one. Check the levels on both flat and inclined surfaces when the hard starti problem occurs. Does it make any difference if the body is pointing uphill of downhill?

Glad that color worked out for you. Makes quite a difference doesn't it?

Edit:

Now I see it's FI and it makes even less sense, lol. So back to the uphill/downhill. Try that out. If if dies out and has hard restarts when pointing downhill, there may be contamination/debris in the fuel tank. If the engine fully wqrmed up when this happens?

jarath

He has a GSL-SE 13B FI. This should never happen, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Have you checked the fuel filter and fuel pressure?

jarath

Bah... missed this. It's possible something is wrong with the way the filter is hooked up or with the filter itself? This only started happening after this was done, no? If so I'm betting the problem has something to do with these items.

thunder01

thanks guys
the paint job turned out great with new carpet in the rear, I'll post some pics when I figure out how to post them is there a size limit.
I'm sorry for the ignorance but are these bowls noticable to the eye or do I have to remove anything?
I really not convinced about the flat surface yet but i don't think it matters uphill or down.
If it were leaky injectors won't the plugs be wet?

thunder01

fuel tank was spotless when I put the new sending unit in and the filter is brand new so everything is fine up till there. I have not done a pressure test yet but will when I get it on the road to a mechanic.

thunder01

Also this was happening before all the work and before I put it to bed for the winter.

jarath

I believe Trochoid was speaking of a carb'd RX-7. Fuel delivery on an FI is straight to the injectors through a fuel rail. If there is any sort of fuel pump issue the pressure won't be what the injectors want and have delivery issues. Fuel injected cars have a much higher pressure fuel pump than regular carb'd cars because of this. I am wondering if this has something to do with the fuel sending unit? I don't think it is wired to the fuel pump at all but I'd have to look. The fuel pump will turn itself off if there is any sort of trailing spark problem and the tach will either start acting funny or stop working altogether. The ECU uses the trailing to determine if and when to turn on the pump and sends a signal to the injectors... any sort of a trailing ignition issue and those injectors just flat out don't turn on.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I took too long writing my post and the thought it was a carb before I edited my last post. Actually this does happen often with FI rotarys. The 3 main causes are not warming the engine up up before shutting it down or killing the engine. The other 2 are leaking injectors and/or low compression.

The part that has me wondering is the different results when parking on an incline as opposed to a level surface.

thunder01

it is strange because the car is warmed up, can drive with no problems. I can pull in the driveway after a little drive turn it off after a cool down. it will then start no problem without touching the gas but on those occasions where is stalls I have to go thru what I said before.

jarath

I replaced all my injector o-ring seals and such and I haven't had any issues like the ones you are describing in any manner. Trochoid... could bad sealing o-rings have an effect on this?

thunder01

So I can purchase injector kits instead the whole injectors?

jarath

You can send your injectors away to have them rebuilt and flow tested I believe.

thunder01

Sorry to repeat myself as you can tell I'm no mechanic, but if the injectors leak would there not be fuel on the plugs. I guess what I really need to do is get the fuel pressure tested before i do anything.
Thanks guys something to go on.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

How many miles are on the engine/injectors? Your injectors being dry is part of what has me baffled. If they were wet, then my 1st suggestion would be to send them out for cleaning and balancing. That will run 15-25 per injector plus shipping. Since you say the plugs are dry, then the next best guess is low compression. Do a compression test and post back the results.

Another possibility is when your son kills the engine, it is flooding in the sense that he's giving it gas when it stalls and dies, then there is leftover unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber that is fouling the plugs. Best option for restart in that circumstanse is to hold the accellerator pedal to the floor during restart to draw in as much air as powsile to clear out any unburnt fuel. Next time this happens, pull both lower plugs before trying to restart and check the plugs for raw fuel.

Jarath, leaking o-rongs can cause problems. They will manifests as gummy fuel or carbon deposit at the top or bottom of of the injectors. If there are any fuel luel leaks at all at the injectors, o-rings or pulsation dampner, immediate replatement is required. Engine bay fires is the #3 cause of FI-Na retirement, right behind tossing an apex seal and overheating.

thunder01

Thanks Trochoid, I have just been driving around the neighborhood since putting the gas tank and filter back in. I was hoping to find something in the gas tank when i had it apart but no luck it was spotless. I have to get the interior back in so I can visit a mechanic. I have plugs on order which I can do myself but need help with compression test and fuel pressure test. One more thing is that I have a small oil leak from the big black rubber plug I believe is on the bottom of trany or moter. don't know yet if it is leaking down the back of the motor or from the plug area itself.

thunder01

Sorry I forgot it has 124kms on the motor, have no idea if they are orignal injectors or not.

jarath

That big rubber plug is just a drain for inside the bell housing. If you have oil around it, it could be the transmission oil seal inside is going bad... if it looks like transmission fluid then you know its an internal transmission oil seal. If it looks like regular oil, more often than not, the pan is leaking or sometimes your oil line at the bottom of the motor and just ending up on the bottom of the plug because as you drive it forces it backwards... mine is always saturated with oil from this. Sooner or later I'll replace this pan gasket but being lazy Transmission fluid smells horrible and shouldn't be black... if this looks really thick and nasty than its tranny fluid but my guess would be its either your oil line or pan.

thunder01

Thanks I had the oil pan fixed in the fall so I don't think it is that but it looks like the clean oil that's on the dip stick. I'll have to have a closer look.... you say there is an oil line running near the rear of motor?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like the rear main engine seal is leaking. You might be able to see the leak by pulling the inspection covers from the top and right side of the engine. If it's the rear main seal, the engine side of the flywheel will be wet. If it's the tranny input shaft seal, it will show oil spray radiating from the input shaft. Unfortunately, the tranny needs pulled to replace either seal.

jarath

If its the tranny input shaft seal, could any of that fluid have gotten on the clutch and possibly hurt it requiring replacement of the clutch as well?

thunder01

Thanks guys I have to get it up in the air and have a closer inspection.