Hanging up your new exhaust...
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Hanging up your new exhaust...
Hey guys. I got a shiny new racing beat exhaust in the mail the other day. I have a racing beat header to street port center section to power pulse muffler. Currently i have the car on stands and nothing but the header on. Now i want to hang the exhaust up and i know i need a couple oval rubber hangers and some bolts to fit between the header and center section.. I dont know what size of bolts i need for the header to center section and i figured someone on here might know so why not ask. I searched around for information and i know its not too hard of a job to do but a little advise would help tons. My car is a 85 gsl-se btw.
Also... what happens when you put a street port exhaust on a stock motor? will the engine just breath better or is there any negative effects i should watch out for?
Long live the rotorheads.
Also... what happens when you put a street port exhaust on a stock motor? will the engine just breath better or is there any negative effects i should watch out for?
Long live the rotorheads.
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Hey; you didn't really say whether you got the Racing Beat setup specifically for the -SE engine, as it needs a 'feedback sensing' tube that comes on the Pre-Silencer from Racing Beat for the -SE's. If you don't have the correct presilencer, then your '6'-ports won't be working, as they'll have no pressure source to activate their opening under high RPM conditions (above ~3800rpm).
That said, assuming you have all the right parts, my recommendation is that you order up new rubber hangers for the car, which include 2 of the rubber donuts, and about 6-7 of the rubber hangers which have steel inserts which allow you to bolt through them and into the various underbody mounts. Be sure you use the washers on the bolts when you hang it to keep the exhaust from sliding off. There is a hanger at the rear transmission mount, but I removed the bracket from the underbody, and don't use that mount anymore - just simpler without it there for me.
Also, when you install the header, I would recommend bolting the complete exhaust system together tightly when you install it, but leave the nuts from the header to the engine block somewhat loose. While you hang the rest of the rubber components and everything is tucked up tightly, use some 2x4 blocks or a tranny jack to push up on the presilencer. With the exhaust plumbing pressed up tightly, now tighten the nuts holding the header in place to the motor, along with tightening each of the underbody mounts. By doing it this way, it does a better job of holding it tightly against the underside of the car, and with as little ground clearance as we have, every little bit helps.
Be sure to use all of the gaskets for the sensing tube from your old system, as well as the presilencer to tailpipe gasket to prevent exhaust leaks.
Performance-wise, the RB PP muffler makes good power with very little droning noise, and being made out of stainless stell - it'll last almost forever. That's where RB stands out above the rest is in durability, since most other systems use poorer quality componets and silencer packing, which gradually degrades over time and ends up sounding like a lawn mower. You'll probably notice that the amount of exhaust gas pressure will open your '6'-ports at a higher RPM level than with the restrictive stock exhaust, so much so, that you may not get a lot of powerband boost as a result of the Dynamic Effect Intake and additional intake ports which only open at high RPM and power output. Your best bet is to remove the Upper Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Manifold, and clean out your '6'-port sleeves so they operate smoothly and with little restriction.
This ensures that you'll get the best performance out of your exhaust system upgrade. Personally, I think the RB PP exhaust is the single best investment you can make to increase performance without killing fuel economy, and it sounds much better after you're done. Good luck, and enjoy it.
That said, assuming you have all the right parts, my recommendation is that you order up new rubber hangers for the car, which include 2 of the rubber donuts, and about 6-7 of the rubber hangers which have steel inserts which allow you to bolt through them and into the various underbody mounts. Be sure you use the washers on the bolts when you hang it to keep the exhaust from sliding off. There is a hanger at the rear transmission mount, but I removed the bracket from the underbody, and don't use that mount anymore - just simpler without it there for me.
Also, when you install the header, I would recommend bolting the complete exhaust system together tightly when you install it, but leave the nuts from the header to the engine block somewhat loose. While you hang the rest of the rubber components and everything is tucked up tightly, use some 2x4 blocks or a tranny jack to push up on the presilencer. With the exhaust plumbing pressed up tightly, now tighten the nuts holding the header in place to the motor, along with tightening each of the underbody mounts. By doing it this way, it does a better job of holding it tightly against the underside of the car, and with as little ground clearance as we have, every little bit helps.
Be sure to use all of the gaskets for the sensing tube from your old system, as well as the presilencer to tailpipe gasket to prevent exhaust leaks.
Performance-wise, the RB PP muffler makes good power with very little droning noise, and being made out of stainless stell - it'll last almost forever. That's where RB stands out above the rest is in durability, since most other systems use poorer quality componets and silencer packing, which gradually degrades over time and ends up sounding like a lawn mower. You'll probably notice that the amount of exhaust gas pressure will open your '6'-ports at a higher RPM level than with the restrictive stock exhaust, so much so, that you may not get a lot of powerband boost as a result of the Dynamic Effect Intake and additional intake ports which only open at high RPM and power output. Your best bet is to remove the Upper Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Manifold, and clean out your '6'-port sleeves so they operate smoothly and with little restriction.
This ensures that you'll get the best performance out of your exhaust system upgrade. Personally, I think the RB PP exhaust is the single best investment you can make to increase performance without killing fuel economy, and it sounds much better after you're done. Good luck, and enjoy it.
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Hi i just got the full road race street port exhaust system from racing beat, it's one designed for the gsl se, i have been trying to fit it all day and came to the conclusion there isn't enough clearance between the center section and the heat shield on the floor of the car. Do you recommend removal of the shields or would the heat damage the floor of the car? I can start my own thread and take pictures if you like.
Thanks, from jozey.
Thanks, from jozey.
#4
I hope that helps
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Yeah i decided to give racingbeat a call and a guy named Bruce told me it was unusual for the exhaust to be hitting the heat shield so i think there was a custom one fitted for the previous exhaust setup. But bruce thought it would be fine if i removed the shield to create room for the headers and presilencers.
Hopefully it works out and if it doesn't ill do as you suggested and try to fit the heat shield back on and get header wrap.
Thanks mate
Hopefully it works out and if it doesn't ill do as you suggested and try to fit the heat shield back on and get header wrap.
Thanks mate
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