I work at a dealership and we got a new Snap On "SOLUS" computer. It can interface with hundreds of different years and models of cars. Well it can interface with mine too. YAY! It says connect the 6-pin connector to the interface "under passenger carpet and cover". Where does this mean? I dont feel like ripping apart my car so this is why I ask.. Thanks in advance.

 

I do not remember there being any connector there. The control unit or ECU is under the passenger carpet covered by a metal protection cover. It's not that big of a deal to get to. Usually you remove the door sill plate, the inner door kick panel where the front speaker is. Remove the bolt on panel next to the center console held on buy 2 screws. After you pull the carpet back there will be a cover (metal)
that needs to be removed. It is held in place by approx 4 nuts. After you remove this the ECU is underneath.
Now to the big ? Why? Is there a running problem? rx7doctor

 

Dude that is sweet...now for the dumb question...what can the comp do? Is it mainly for detecting problems?

 

Yes, there is an open 6-pin connector under there. Just access the ECU as rx7doctor mentioned. The ECU is used to control the fuel injection on the SE as well as the various emmision related solenoids. Unfortunately, your computer will not give much information as the SE only reports just a handful of error codes. Depending on how the "SOLUS" computer operates, it may be able to give you the O2 sensor voltage reading as well.

Let us know how the SOLUS tester works out and what it will show. If you want to test for error codes on the SE, but don't have a tester, follow the write-up I put together.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/electrical-se-error-code-write-up-285461/

Kent

 

Outstanding work there Amigo. Too bad the computer is so Antiquated,lol.
It still can be remapped by sending it out. Claim on gain is approx 10-11hp by the
company. Too bad most of our testing still has to be done the old fashioned way.
Pin check at the Ecu. Even checking the AFM by Oem testing still is not accurate.
Especially when you buy an aftermarket rebuild. The reason why is because they do not calibrate it correctly.This does not show up when testing it. I have always done the pin check at the Ecu and the rest of the manual testing. But i think i am going to use your method just to try it and see what if anything is in there.
Again Great job, Thanks, rx7doctor

 

Who does re-maps? How much do they cost?

 

Thanks for the input. I hope that you find my directions easy to follow, but if you have any questions, go ahead and ask. You are right about the limited info the ECU can provide. I figured out how to do the ECU test when my engine was running a bit rough and the mixture was pretty rich. I performed the test, and it indicated that the AFM was bad. Sure enough, I tested the resistances on the AFM and they didn't match with factory specs. I replaced the AFM, and that fixed the problem and no more error codes are present. This method will help to quickly find some of the more major issues, but as you said, this method is limited and further testing (voltages, resistances, etc.) may need to be required to track down a particular problem.

 

Jet products does. Cost around $300.00 rx7doctor

 

SMNC... MEGA SQUIRT....Eliminate MAF.... More CFM.....

 

Its not running bad but it could be running better. Its pretty much because I never have tried it and I have the resources. Main problem with it now is the injectors. They're leaking from between the injector itself and the fuel rail. Now first reason pops into everyone's heads. Orings- replaced. Grommets- replaced. Next thing I want to say is regulator letting too much pressure in. Would that be because the regulator is messd up or because I'm not getting any good vaccuum. ANd where does the vacuum come from and how do i test that device????? AND i can't test the output pressure of my stock fuel pump due to all the fuel pressure guages today are quick connect and my '84 SE just has reg hoses with hose clamps. I was thinking of making a connector from my hardware store but figured, might as well just upgrade to a Walbro 255 and buy an external FPR with guage readout. Alldata online says after the regulator the SE is supposed to run at 28.4 PSI to the injectors and before the FPR anywhere from 50-71 PSI. See my delema???

 

Blazer,

I have a fuel pressure gauge that you could borrow. It tees into the main fuel line. I think I got it from AutoZone. I could ship it to you and then you just send it back when you are done. If you could provide payment for the cost of my shipping (actual charges) when you are done, that would be great.

The FPR vacuum line goes to the solenoid with the orange connector and then to the dynamic chamber. The orange solenoid is energized during hot starts which causes the FPR to reference atmospheric pressure instead of manifold vacuum. This causes an increase in fuel pressue (normally should be about 28 psi at idle, with the orange solenoid energized it increases to about 37 psi). It is possible that your FPR is sticking/not working correct. I had the same problem. Mine was reading 33-38 psi and about 45 psi with the orange solenoid energized.

Are the injectors still leaking? Go ahead and check for error codes. Your AFM or something may be bad. But, you should fix that leak (if there is one) before looking into other problems.

Kent

 

I've though about an MS system before, but I really like the Wolf3D too.
Do you have an MS installed Feds?

 

The injectors would not leak because of too much pressure at the rail.
Did you lube the o'rings with fuel before you put them on, you can also use vaseline. Are you sure that you have the 2 bolts tightened all the way down?
also did the base of the injectors seat correctly, alot of times the bottoms grommets get squished.
I have never had an se leak there before myself. have had it leak at the FPR.
As far as the walbro 255, it's a overkill unless you are going to a Turbo engine with alot of HP. The se stock fuel pump puts out more than even the Stock turbo engines. It has more than enough Psi and volume. Save your money for other things. As far as fabricationg a pressure gauge to check it. It is easy, just buy a normal FI gauge and get the appropriate brass Tee and fittings.
As far as if you have any running problems. You have not given any specifics.
rx7doctor

 

Yeah, we already went though this...
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/se-fuel-rail-question-407957/

 

Yes the bolts were tightened down as much as they could before breaking. The original time I resealed my injectors with brand new o rings and grommets yes i used vasoline. Still leaked. The thick rubber grommet is supposed to seat into the main hole and isnt supposed to be squished even farther down inside the "block" is it? So it isn't possible or is it for too much fuel to make injectors leak? If I were to go the route of buying an aftermarket FPR, how would i set it to go from 28psi at idle to 37 at boost? Would I simply use the old FPR vaccuum line and adjust the new FPR to 28 psi???? The only other thing I can think of is when the engine was rebuilt 60K ago by God knows who, they replaced the injectors with lower volume injectors. That would explain my lack of power after half throttle and fuel leaking wouldn't it????? Alldata Online says my 2 injectors are the highest CC from 1st and 2nd gen including the T2's. Not many people know they flow at 197 cc/ 15 sec. when properly cleaned....

 

Do you have the air bleeds that go down in the block? http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

They go in the holes just below the injectors. If you are missing these, that would explain the fuel leak. Sometimes during a rebuild, people take the air bleeds out (they usually break) and may forget to put them back in. I doubt you have the wrong injectors. Even if you did, the top feed injectors use the same size inlet, so that wouldn't cause the leak. The injectors should have an orange top, be about 2.2 ohms resistance, and have the number 195500-0900 on them.

I wouldn't worry about the FPR yet. First fix the leak and then you can borrow my fuel pressure tester if you want. As for low power up top, make sure that your 5/6 ports are working. I would also be interested in what that 'SOLUS' computer will read off the SE ECU.

Kent

 

You're a genious! I dont have those! I take it I need 2 of them or is the $42 for both?

 

I believe they are sold as each, so you will need to get two. They go down in the injector holes and sit bellow the lower grommet of the injector. Shine a light down the injector holes (in block) to make sure they are not there. Also, if you have the lower intake off, you can easily see them hanging down into the primary ports (center iron).

Kent

 

Grrrr! Bought air bleeds, tore off intake only to find that I was mistaken and already had then. O rings still intact. I dunno whats left besides new injectors and fuel rail since ppl are saying the FPR, even if it was allowing too much pressure, wouldn't cause fuel spill. Luckily I didn't get them from Mazdatrix but my friend at Atkins Rotary.

 

So the o-rings are in good shape? No nicks or anything? What about on the inside of the rail where the injector goes is. Could it be damaged? Is it leaking from both injectors or just one? Take a close look at the top of the injectors also to make sure they are not cracked/damaged. I really doubt it is your injectors and it is unlikely that it is the fuel pressure, but if you want to borrow my fuel pressure tester, you can.

Kent

 

Yeah, we covered all that in the other thread too...
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=407957

 

Thanks for all of your help Addict . But no, no broken o rings, and from what I can see no damage to the rail. Though it is my next suspect. I would like it if someone could post a pic of what their SE rail looks like looking down into the injector holes. Possibly a sleeve is missing from inside making them loose. Because when I look down them it looks smooth all the way to where it T's in with the rail. I would think there would be some kind of groove where the O rings are supposed to "click" into. Because when I haven't bolted the rail down yet but the injectors are seated into the "block" and the rail, I can still move the rail up and down on the injectors a 1/8"........and yes both injectors are leaking, the foreward one leaking worse than the rear. Since they are both leaking it would also tell me, if it was an injector it would most likely be only one....arg!

 

^^

 

I don't know what to tell you. I think that we have covered every possibility. Even if it was the wrong fuel rail (like off a 2nd gen), it should still fit fine and not leak. You don't have any washers or anything between the fuel rail mounting spot and the engine, do you? You could check the fuel pressure, but it would have to be really high to cause a leak like that if the seal are all good and in their correct places. Could you maybe take some pics of the rail, injectors, etc. so that we can make sure everthing is installed right? Where do you live in Washington. If you were close enough I could maybe come give you a hand? (I bet that you are too far away, though)

Kent

 

I live near Bremerton, Washington. No worries if you can't. I'm friends with Dan the Man Atkins.