WalkerCaroll

After I fixed my grounding issue, I couldn't get the car to catch a spark so I got new spark plugs and that seemed to do the trick but now it wont idle at all. It jumps up to 4500 rpm and then starts to fall back to 0 rpm and I have limited control on keeping the revs up until it decides to cut out. heres a video before and after the new plugs.




This is all after I put the ENTIRE intake system back on again. Is it air leaking in after the AFM? And does anyone have any ideas on what the hell that high pitched noise is? Its not the alternator (I took the belt off and started it and it still made the same damn noise). Thanks guys.

WalkerCaroll

Is that the sound of an airleak? Because if its that then I can start tightening bolts until I find the problem. But if thats not a leak and its some broken piece then this is going to be bad. Maybe the waterpump?

Smokeyfb33

iTrader: (8)

Did you resolve this? I was just having trouble with my SE and it seems similar to your problems. My ultimate problem ended up being a slowly failing trailing ignitor.

No idea what the whine would be though.

WalkerCaroll

Ya man, I got it back up and running yesterday. It was a combination of not getting ALL of the old intake gasket off so the new gasket I put on wasn't completely sealing and caused an air leak. My ACV was also leaking so I got a gasket to completely block it off and stop it from leaking too. And my TPS is also gone bad. Not to the point of not working but it doesn't adjust correctly and eventually it will go bad. :P

The whine seems to come from my alternator but I tightened it as far as I could and that seems to stop it from whining.

LongDuck

The whine was probably the air leak from the gasket not sealing properly, and that would prevent the car from running well, as you'd have a huge vacuum leak because of it. The engine would draw air from the easiest source (being that gap in the gasket) and that would not come through the AFM, so the ECU would be running lean - probably an issue to keep the car running at anything more than WOT as not enough fuel is passing to ignite properly.

Setting TPS is most evident when it starts surging at steady state throttle like when cruising on the freeway - if the car can't seem to stay at one speed and 'bucks' at steady throttle, then your TPS needs to be adjust slightly one way or the other. Aside from that the TPS is not a fine-tune sensor.

Also, for good measure - take your alternator (and other) belt off and run some 400-grit sandpaper along the inside of it. If any oil or grease gets on the belts, they can squeal as they slip against the pulley, causing a similar sound. Good luck,