LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

First of all, This car has been sitting since Feburary. The compression tests I have done arent great, but good enough that it should run. It will start on ether, we replaced the fuel pump because it was bad, then we hard wired the pump to a toggle switch in the dash.

Just FYI the toggle was not my idea, but I saw at the time no reason it would keep the car from starting. I have searched and found two threads pertaining to SE's not starting. I am wondering if the AFM requires some signal from the pump, or if it simply sends output and receives no input.

We are getting fuel up to the fuel rail, but havent checked the injectors. The pressure regulator checked out, and the leading and trailing ignition have strong spark, not that it may matter but the car has 2GCDFIS. Tried ATF and MMO, no change of any kind. Plugs come out wet, and very oily, I am assuming our compression is being affected by the side seals because of this.

We have changed the ECU, and the AFM, However we have no way of establishing if the AFM or ECU are in good condition. I feel the odds of two bad ECU's and AFM's are slim to none. We want to try and avoid removing the upper plenum, as the car is needed in running condition ASAP, and plenum gaskets are days away. Obviously if given no other choice we will be forced to remove it.

Also, if anyone has a known good FMOC 12a/13b I know someone who needs one badly.

I have read these both entirely

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=no+fuel+start

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=fuel+pump

Russrx7

I don't want to jump away from what you are currently thinking but are you sure that you are getting spark? The three basics to getting ignition are fuel, air and spark. Air is usually a given. You seem to be working on the fuel but have you eliminated spark or is that next on the list?

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Read my post again, strong spark from the leading and trailing ignition.


Fuel Injectors checked out at 3.7 Kohms, my manual says 1.5-3 Kohms otherwise they are junk. I beleive we found our problem.

Chris

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

Is your temp sensor behind the waterpump housing hooked up? I believe the AFM triggers the fuel pump on the SE's. Hopefully others will chime in.

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that was checked and double checked. Fuel pump is hard wired to a switch now, my only concern was that the AFM may hinder the cars ability to start if the pump isnt connected with it.

No need to chime in, engine is being pulled as we speak. And a TII engine will have a new home shortly. To be honest I dont know why we didnt do this in the first place, as this engine running or not has just about reached the point of a rebuild.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

You say the plugs are wet. I assume they smell like gas? Have you tried to deflood it?

If plugs are wet with fuel, couple common probs:
- just really flooded. add oil to chambers, kill fuel pump, crank the hell out of it with gas pedal to the floor. Have another car jump you or use a charger to keep the starter spinning fast

- coolant themo sensor in back of waterpump disconnected or bad. If unplugged, it will think it is super cold out (like -40 F) and will flood the engine instantly.

If plugs are dry:
- fuel pump not running
- blue connector to trailing - coil is unplugged (provides signal to fire injectors)
- no power to injectors/ECU (fusible link blown)

These are the main problems for totally wet or dry plugs. Of couse you could have one rotor flooded or dry if 1 injector was stuck open or had a bad connector.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Oh, and the AFM doesn't care if it is connected to the fuel pump or not. It just triggers the fuel pump relay. When cranking, it doesn't matter anyway. During cranking, the stock SE will activate the pump with the key in the 'START' position. After the key is released is when the fuel pump relay relies on the AFM to trigger it to keep it going.

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I thought, I wasnt totally sure. I know how the AFM works on Toyota's and I guess I can actually apply everything I know about them to Mazda's. I just dont jump to conclusions without being at least 90% sure.

We tested the coolant sensor according to the Haynes manual. It was functioning properly.

We did try to un-flood it. We actually did that a few days after the initial ATF treatment. The plugs didnt smell like gas though they smelled strongly of oil. We then established that the injectors were shot, obviously the engine was getting oil, but no fuel.

The owner of the vehicle, being impatiant, decided that even though we could get it running, that he would still have to wait on his new leak free oil cooler to arrive. So, why not rip the engine out and order a TII..

Not exactly what i would have done, but its not my car. So thats where we are at now, just got the front cover off of the SE 13b and are waiting on the TII....

Chris

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

^^^^^^^ thanks for the info.