shane.trammell

now that my fc is acting up i decided to mess see if my fb still wanted to run. keep in mind that its been sitting for a year or so and i dont want to throw money at it for the heck of it. here are the problems, if you have any ideas please let me know thanks.


1. battery wont hold a charge at all. its been dead for a while so i know it needs to be replaced. dont know why i mentioned this bc i already know what i have to do to fix it, guess it could relate to the other probs.

2. weird electrical thing. at higher rpms the volts are great, at or above 14. in the lower rpms and at idle the voltmeter goes nuts and so does the tach. same thing happens when i use the turn sigs, and they blink reeeeeaally fast.

3. stumble at around 2k. sometimes at that spot the engine just sounds like it cuts out. i stay in the throttle and it picks back up. bad fuel filter? when i got the car it had been missing the gas cap so i have reason to believe that there could be rust in the tank. i cant remember if i ever replaced the filter. i think i did

4. backfiring. didnt really drive it long enough to get a sense of when it does this, but seems like its at higher rpms after i get out of it to shift. also it does it when i engine brake. p.s. theres no cat. could this be bad gas? i went and put in 6 gallons but there was like an 8th tank in there before.

5. clutch stuff. the clutch will pressurize if i pump it, but i have to pump it for a while. the fluid is almost full and has been. is there a way to know for sure if this is the master or the slave?


it does great at high rpms and will go all the way to redline in every gear smoothly. guess it still has life left in it after 240k miles!


ALSO REMEMBER THAT THIS IS A GSL-SE SO ITS FI thanks

shane.trammell

no one has any ideas about any of this? what about the clutch?

jarath

Battery will cause wierdness if it can't even hold a minor charge. Fast blinking turn signals can be from this voltage drop or you just have a light out somewhere. Tach going crazy... in my experience... trailing ignition is having problems as it is directly related to the tach. Stumble is probably related to this trailing ignition issue as well as backfiring. Check spark on the trailing coil and your plugs along with other basics like distributer cap. Bleed the clutch if you haven't done so already.

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

A bad slave will just dump fluid out but a bad master can leak between the seals. Bleed it and replace it if still no good. May as well replace the slave too - its easy and cheap. No cat = shoot flames. You may have a exhaust leak too tho. It sounds like you know what you need to do for the most part (fuel filter etc) and none of it sounds expensive (yet at least). Whats wrong with your FC?

shane.trammell

thanks a lot guys. Coolant seals are gone in the fc.

shane.trammell

ok got it running. It was backfiring and flaming a lot so I replaced the plugs but that didnt fix it. After I did the plugs it didnt want to start but I finally got it started, then it didnt want to idle. I held it at 3k until it warmed up then it had a really rough idle which smoothed out after about a minute and held at 500 rpm smoothly. I took it out for a drive and its still backfiring. When it does it also shoots out embers, which could be soot burning out I guess. The big problem is when I give it more than about 1/4 throttle at a time it either just cuts out all together or runs really rough until it catches up. I'm thinking its the vacuum advance system or the timing all together.

The motor sounds good on the ghetto compression test, and it pulls strong if I ease into it.

What do you guys think?

ps when I got back from the drive it was back to not holding an idle.

bugman1973

you need an alternator to get some of you electrical problems to go away

shane.trammell

No more electrical problem, guess those were all the bad battery.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Are you running it on 1 year old gas? If so that could be causing some of your problems. If you haven't already, I'd replace the fuel filter and add fresh fuel. Drain the tank first if there's more than a gallon or so of old gas.

bliffle

Also, the corroded battery terminals. Terminal corrosion is the most common cause of mystery electrical problems. Also, sometimes the cause of needlessly replaced batteries.

hanman

Make sure to reset your TPS, it's a common aggravation in GSL-SE's.

shane.trammell

how do I reset the tps?

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

check this link for all GSL-SE idle issues.... I always start from the beginning and adjust the entire EGI system whenever I have any problems.

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html

shane.trammell

decided to look at the air filter just to rule it out and the seal around the filter somehow has become liquefied. needless to say the airbox is a mess and the tar like stuff has gotten down onto the door on the afm not allowing it to open and close freely. im sure this is the problem, it really makes more sense than the timing bc the timing wouldnt change just with the car sitting.

the tar stuff stopped at the flapper in the afm so i should just be able to clean it out. any ideas of what to clean what is basically tar off with?

shane.trammell

replaced the afm and airbox with ones I had around and the car runs fine. idles at 1k til warm then goes to about 800 after that. Its got a little bit of a bobble and when I floor it it takes about a second to respond but I still need to adjust the tps. Something happened to my test light so im going to have to make another one before I can adjust it.

The afm fixed the hard starts, rough and no idle, and the engine cut out when giving too much throttle