So I got to work on the GSL-SE this weekend. Got the titled transferred and tags on so I could drive it some more.

First up, replaced the worn out '85 Alternator with a newer '91 T2 version. I followed 85 FBs write-up for the most parts minus a few differences. I swapped the B terminals on the old alternator onto the new one, used the existing female connectors (after braking them out of the stock clip) and I used a slimmer inline automotive 5amp fuse holder just so it would tuck more and look more OEM.

I also bled the front brakes, but they still don't feel 100% on, so I'll bleed them all next weekend.

I built a new TPS test light since I lost my old one. The TPS was out of adjustment, so that got rid of the lurching I had at partial throttle.

Here's the funny parts though that I haven't messed with too much:

1. Dropping the e-brake caused the car to stall out. The volt gauge would drop down to 8 and then stall out. I disconnected the e-brake switch under the center console and that solved the problem..sort of. What would make that happen? I'd like to keep the switch on since it triggers the "brake" light on the cluster.

2. Car won't drive much past 5K RPM without really flooring it. Revs fine in neutral. My guess is the 5th and 6th ports are def stuck closed. Anything else might cause this?

3. How accurate is the stock temperature gauge on the SE? Mine is all over the map. When you floor the car..it jumps to the notch before "H", cruising it sits a little lower then middle?


Next up are tires. This car has 3 different sizes and types of tires on it making it pull every direction while driving. I also need to replace the front struts. If the weather permits, I'll also pull the dents out on the drivers side and prep for bodywork/paint which I plan to do in the spring.

Here are a few pics of the work this weekend.

 

Wow, that is really weird with the e-brake, maybe something i shorting out? Someone else will chime in, i have no idea

 

Well the owner before the guy I got the car from had some kind of sound system in it as the car is missing it's stereo all together, has those oversized power and ground cables (btw, the battery is grounded to the engine?? - i'll switch that later), and there are speaker wires run near the ebrake under the carpet. I didnt see anything obvious that it was pinching.

I think it might be a hot wire that gets pinched and grounded out causing the battery to short. You would think a fuse would pop though...

 

I too have an extra ground from the battery to the motor. That part is okay

 

Its not an extra ground - its literally THE ground as in, battery straight to AC Bracket, lol.

 

Oh, lol, its the only one?

 

read the first post http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1 it sounds like you have a grounding issue to begin with then go from there.

 

Can you share more about the test light? I don't mind buying one from Pineapple or somewhere else, but I'd kinda like to just make my own.

 

Yea, the ground from the battery to the A/C bracket is the only one I saw.

I have a feeling the ebrake switch is some kind of ground issue. Its hard to tell as the previous person did some things for a sound system and who knows. I'll track it down more later this month.

Test Light:
2 x GREEN 12V LED from Radio Shack
3 x Aligator clamps

I built mine into a PCM enclosure for ease of use, cleanliness and because I'm sure it'll get passed around my friends (which is how I lost my old one).

Basically, take the two positive leads from the LEDs (red wire) wrap & solder them together and connect a clamp (you can use use a female wire connector as well 3/4" is fine)

Then connect the negative (black wire) leads from the LEDs to a clamp of it's own.

You end up with three "connections" two red to one clamp and each black to it's own clamp.

 

WE3, quick question:

Several months ago my buddy was foolish enough to install a large sound system into his cougar, with a very expensive DVD player+Screen mounted into the dash. I remember that because of our laws here, it could NOT play while driving. So they had to wire a ground or something to the E brake, so that if it was down it would not play. He later removed the ground and placed it elsewhere. He then crashed the car into a ditch.

Perhaps the owner before had something similiar and theres some left over wiring somewhere eating your current? Just speculation.

 

Moral of the story, dont fap and drive

 

What part of VA are you in? If close, I could give you a hand.

 

I'm in northern, lol - its a good hike to Lynchburg. The car is at my parents' place south of me, which is like 2 hours from Lynchburg (near charlottesville).

Good thought on that ebrake kill switch deal for the sound system. I didnt look too much into it, just disconnected it so I could drive and make sure the alt belt was good. I dont do the sound system thing. I like a nice system in luxury cars, but in the RX's... no thanks, just extra weight that isnt necessary.

I'll have to check it out some more. I need to redo the grounds anyway...

 

Figures. Seems like most of the VA rotorheads are in the north part of the state. If you can't get it figured out, I wouldn't mind running up to the charlottesville area to help you out for a day.

 

For me it seems like all the rotorheads arent even in the state

Good luck with it

 

yeah i had a somewhat reving problem with my rx-7 then it totaly got a BIG sortage of power. took it to the mechanic and they thought it was spark plugs, got it back and it still had like no power. i figured out that it was the exhaust, the catilac converter, was all clogged up, free'd it up and felt like it add'd 20 hp "mine has weber carb with a ported engine" cause an exhuast should be replaced about every 5 years, and it's been in thier almost 25. "which you don't have to pass emmission after 25 years consider a collector car" so take a metal stake and get that honey comb outa thier and you'll notice a power difference. "sorry about the spelling mistakes"

 

The GSL-SE's cat is empty already

Yea, I'm down for a meetup. I cruise pretty much anywhere in VA except that lower area near Danville and Roanoke, lol.. but richmond, cville, fairfax, va beach - its all game


One thing I wanted to note is that this car's engine smokes until fully warmed up. I'm a little detterred as its probably oil rings giving out. Its got great compression though and terrific power for the mileage below 5K RPM - why is it that all fun seals have to go out first! My first NA blew the coolant o-rings. Perfect compression, great power, just dumped coolant into the combustion, lol..

Once I sort out all the mechanical/electrical woe's of this car I'll bring the dents out and paint it. My girl decided on a color too - Montego Blue Mica.

Should be a nice car - if I dont sell it first

 

I had a problem it would stick around 4-5k RPM, and then have to floor it to get it going. Reved fine in neutral…it was a clogged fuel filter.

 

I will definately check the actuators before tearing everything down to repair them. But a new fuel filter isnt a bad idea either, lol...

Ultimately, I want to tear down the intake system, replace all the hoses, vac lines, gaskets and clean EVERYTHING thoroughly. I'd also like to port match the manifolds as well.

I've got RB exhaust sitting here too, but i need headers to complete the system. Should be a fun project, I'll probably take a full weekend once I get the headers and new gaskets and redo it all.

 

Battery ground wire is supposed to go from the battery to the strut tower by the fusible links, the to the long through bolt on the starter, forward side.