My car is 34 years old and has 82,700 kms. or 51,500 miles. I have changed the fuel filter several times as preventive maintenance but the pump is still original. I purchased replacements of both about one year ago. The car has been parked since July, 2017 thru until only 10 days ago. I intended to service it, plus the pump and filter, asap this spring.
So, a couple days ago I get around to doing this and remove filter. Then, for first time ever, I remove the brackets holding pump in place. Right away I could see that the replacement (Delphi FE0285) is NOT going to work - primarily due to inlet and outlet. I got this part from RockAuto but will not attempt to return it mainly because it was mostly my stupidity. Yes, this Delphi is listed but it does state 'IN TANK' and I didn't see this a year ago. I should also add that I did the (h-p) fuel pressure test and it came up as only 42 psi - - significantly lower than (factory safe) range of between 48 and 71. Two years ago that pressure read as 65.
I need to know, now, from you other SE owners (with factory EFI) what brands you use OR suggest. I have seen several on various sites and they all (physically) seem like they'd install okay. I is the (OEM) Denso still available?
There has to be a 1/2" ? pipe for Inlet and a 'banjo' outlet. Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks.

 

It's been 6 days since I posted this. No replies yet so I went ahead and ordered the AIP pump out of Cal. - - which will cost me a (decent) $73. (CDN) - - door to door. It is (supposedly) interchangeable for many car brands from about 1979 thru '92. Please don't anyone tell me I made a horrible mistake! Thanks to all who 'viewed' this topic.

 

You might have better luck getting an answer to a first gen car in the First Gen section. The factory GSL-SE pump is still available.

84-85 13B Rx7 Fuel Pump (N304-13-350C)

After Market - DENSO
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

 

I moved the thread into the proper section.

As stated above, the original pump is still available and is the best choice for a stock pump. Others are universal and require some fab work.

 

 

Mazda factory, $344- at Mazdatrix. Yeah, not cheap, but literally a bolt in and be done solution. Glad you made it over to the 1st gen section!

 

Well - - isn't that interesting! First, an Update on the AIP pump out of Bakersfield. Inlet perfect and outlet same diameter (as OEM), however, the (AIP) threads are 'course' while OEM/Denso are fine. The Pulsation Damper would fasten and secure - otherwise.
I will return AIP pump (via Ebay) as it was misrepresented as viable replacement for the SE.
I will then choose either the Airtex E8000 OR the S.P. (made in Canada) 1186 unit. Both of these, as displayed on Rockauto, offer the fine-threaded outlet - which I am 99.9% sure would accept the (OEM) pulsation damper/nut piece. I can see the correct washer that sits against the large flange (not copper) - same as OEM. R.A. does not list stuff that is 'marginal' or incorrect - at least that is my experience as per the past 25 misc. transactions. A lot of their listed parts are genuine (OEM), and not just the Mazda stuff.
I could now ask (silly?) questions.
(1) what is purpose of the P.D.?
(2) what are you other SE drivers using for a replacement pump?
Just a reminder that my original pump is still working - it seems to be 'down' on max. pressure, but, is still doing its job. So, why replace it? Well, it is, after-all, 34 years old. How long can I expect it to function?
Furthermore, I do deal with Atkins and personally visited them in March, 2017. Great 'family' business, helpful, knowledgeable and wonderful service - plus a location to rival no others.
However, as displayed on their web-link, that $472. pump has extra $76. for shipping and, then converted to CDN -$, the cost to my door would come to a total of $712.
Note also that there will most likely be another shipping charge (via UPS) once item crosses border, and, let's not forget GST and PST - which are added by Canadian Border Services, so in reality that amount may very well get close to $800.
Uh huh. Some of you would say ''gotta have it'' - - while others would say only a Moron would pay that amount.
Three words to think about - - 'improvise, overcome and adapt'. I'll let you know what I decide and how it works out. thanks

 

 

Completely agree with the above statement. The original pump is more than adequate and will last another 2 plus years with zero fab work or modification needed to install. For me it's the only choice. You could even save a lot and buy a used SE fuel pump. They are out there. Just get one that's been tested and verified good.

 

Like you needed a 3rd opinion on this, I agree with the guys above. The stock -SE fuel pump may be more expensive (*$374 at Mazdatrix), but you've already ordered, paid shipping, and got a part that won't work which requires you to ship it back, and now you're going with a Rock Auto pump that's 'supposed' to work...

Penny-wise is pound-foolish.

There's a reason why most of us have stuck with the Factory Mazda part, even though it's more expensive; you're 100% guaranteed that the part you order will fit the car and will very likely work for another 34 years. I have not had your good luck with Rock Auto - they shipped the wrong Mazda6 engine mount and when I sent them pictures they were asking ME if it was the right part in the wrong box, the wrong part in the right box, or the wrong part in the wrong box... I reversed the charge with my CC company and swore off of them.

 

I just went thru all the woes of needing to get a pump from Mazda just to get a pulsation damper as its not available separately. With the car this old on the original one. I would definitely stay OEM sure the price sucks but knowing its all going go run right was huge.


​​​and funny that the cheapest Mazda pump I found 2 months ago came from a dealer in Vancouver shipped to Arizona.

 

 

As of today, I am still reluctant to 'throw in the towel'. Still researching and communicating with sources and suppliers. Some are well-informed while others no so much.
I contacted Metrotown Mazda in Vancouver (Burnaby) and they replied that an OEM pump is available out of Toronto - - for a 'rock-bottom' price of $1018.13 - (yes, CDN). I had asked them (Doug) what their best 'cash and carry' price was and that was the response.
Since my original pump, 34 years old, but with only 83,600 kms. (52k.miles) is still working, I do have some time on my side - so at least there is some time for more research.
Off on two-day 400 mile trip tomorrow but using my '69 Valiant - - (need more than two seats!)

 

Fuel Pumps, Gas Tanks and Fuel Level Senders

Right there is a direct link to the fuel pumps carried by Mazdatrix. The oem GSL-SE fuel pump is $344.

 

I used the Airtex E8000 on my SE without issue. It comes with the necessary fittings and fits in the same bracket. You need to cut the stock wiring though.

 

Okay - - - so the banjo goes on (after small washer) and then the larger (goofy) washer (not included with AIP unit) and, then the Pulser/Damper threads tight on the end, correct?

I stopped getting replies from both 'factories' plus Rockauto. All I wanted to know was how the fuel exits their respective pump. The OEM pump has those openings around the smooth perimeter (as covered by the banjo lump). Airtex did say that the fuel exits through the opening in the outlet pipe - - - but I figure it would be blocked by the inner portion of the Damper. Then there are several perimeter holes at the inlet (of the damper) which are contained inside the goofy gasket. Wouldn't the fuel out of pipe center only contribute to damper function? (hard to format a question).
In other words, does anyone know exactly how the fuel is 'dampened' and what happens to it at that point?
Are two dampers necessary? Does the pressure regulator (on engine fuel rail) control 116 psi fed into it just as easy as perhaps only 70 lbs.?
Do the other vehicle applications - ie: Toyota, Honda, Mitsu, Plymouth etc, also use a Damper?
Your reply was exactly what I was waiting for. thanks. Others?

 

The fuel is dampened as it exits the pump, it hits the diaphragm and makes a 90 degree turn going out thru the banjo fitting and as the pump pulses the spring behind the diaphragm helps to smooth out the fuel as it flows thru the lines.

Other manufactures do use fuel dampers, usually found in the tank like on GM vehicles. The fuel system on the GSL-SE is at an early stage of fuel injection and was designed to have 2 pulsation dampers, probably one to smooth out the pump and the other the opening and closing of the injectors as that also creates shock waves in the fuel system.

I am a parts hound and have not found any suitable replacements for the OEM dampers. I have tried two others made for other vehicles that are the closest to meeting the needed GSL-SE design as a hope to find an alternative. Unfortunately both caused the my GSL-SE to no longer start. Part of the problem is our lower fuel pressure that was run on these cars in the early 80's and that late 80's increased the pressures slightly so they do not operate the same. So OEM is the only way to go. I was not to happy about the $350 for a new pump assembly just for the damper, but it runs great now with it installed. Just have to put a crowbar in the wallet.

 

Agree with you 100%. I kind of figured that the fuel had to 'turn the corner' after deflecting off damper - so has to flow out those small perimeter holes (contained by that special washer) and into the banjo fitting.
Am quite sure that the OEM pump outlet has the extra (4?) holes in the area covered by banjo lump. Not sure what for but it would seem to offer better flow potential.
Logic should dictate that there has to be some 'loose' dampers - - somewhere - or, are these currently available OEM pumps in fact NOS?

 

The damper was never offered separately on its own, only comes on the whole pump assembly form Mazda on the GSL-SE.

I looked around at other pumps/cars Mazda's offered at the time to see if maybe they had run the same type set up and calling it out separately, but no dice. GSL-SE was a one off from my findings.

 

Kind of in a 'lull' - - just playing a 'wait and see' attitude. Pulled on to our freeway, uphill and already in third gear. Triggered the 'buzzer' effortlessly before shift to fourth, so system still adequate - - but - - electrical can quit without notice and no way to test such condition (unlike max fuel pressure and flow). I'll decide something in few days.
Completed a trouble-free trip to Van last weekend but that was with 49 year-old Plymouth. Biggest plusses with it (over RX) are the P.S. and auto trans - - only way to go in big city. But, manual steering still better on highways.

 

Hello, 'first-genners' - - Just to update that, like every winter, SE tucked away since Oct.20th. As a disappointment to some of you, I have so far been reluctant to 'pry open my wallet' with a crowbar, etc. to purchase OEM/NOS fuel pump. Original still fine thru summer and no more filter issues (as dirty gas last April) causing me to replace (filter) 3 times. Yes, suppose I could have drained tank and flushed it but whatever was in there either got out or was 'dissolved' by mid-summer.
Going to look for replacement tires (on since Sept. 2001) and only available (205-60-14's) seem to be from 'off-shore'.
Have a fine remainder of this Holiday season and a prosperous 2019.

 

Well, I'm baaaack. (as some of you roll eyes and/or cringe. SE still awaiting re-insuring and still wearing well-used Dunlops and still being fed by OEM (now 35 yr. old) fuel pump.
Even if I did relent and pry open my wallet there is little of use in there. But I will try to search one more time to find a 'suitable' pump. I have no objection to paying under $400. CDN for a factory fuel pump, but as stated in my previous posts, there is nothing available to me that would cost less than $800. At least that was a year ago, so no harm In trying once again.
Anyone have updated info to offer?

 

Alright, sir. I, too, have a '85 GSL-SE. This is my experience and what I did. After much research about two years ago, i ended getting the DENSO 9513003 from Rock auto. I pretty much transferred all the washers and pulsation damper from the exit side. On the inlet side i had to reuse the same inlet hose as I did not find a 90 deg bend one. IT IS NOT A "PERFECT FIT". It is slightly longer all together. I was able to move it slightly on the mount towards the center of the vehicle, enough to make sure the inlet tube did not collapse and starved the pump in any way. On the side of the pulsation dampener I slightly bent the metal of the cover to make it fit well. Just DO NOT do it too much and check for drive shaft clearance. Just ask me how I know, LOL. Especially if you have any balancing weights on your drive shaft, which tend to be right around that area.

Another thing I did was PROTECT the pump best I could. The large metal fuel filter only protect after the pump, meaning your injector, fuel pressure regulator and pulsation dampener on the engine side. I did put an inline filter between the tank and fuel pump (I will try to attach a photo. I cut the main rubber line to the pump just right after the tank an put a 1/2" metal filter. Especially if you are not sure of the inside of your tank, to include the in tank screen filter and also the little cone screen filter right before the pump inlet. I just can't seem to believe these can be enough protection to the pump. Does it restrict fuel pump? Maybe, probably, i don't know. But i do not race my car. I do drive spiritedly, and can't seem to feel any power loss nor any issues.

I did all of this in conjunction with doing over ALMOST my whole fuel system. You can search my post and see videos of my fuel tank debacle. I also have an FC in tank fuel strainer.

I hope this helps. I used to have photos of the pump set up underneath, but can't find them. Let me know if you have any questions. It may take a day or so, but I will try to help.

 

Hello, and sorry took two weeks to respond. (been ill). Thanks much for your 'hands-on' info. Pretty much what I have been seeking. I did find some time to search RockAuto, by the provided Denso PN., however I suspect this item is sold as replacement for some other vehicle - by name. Would I be correct and do you happen to know the possible vehicle listing? Also, same with the (in-line) filter. Can you provide the PN of that. (Can't quite read it off side of unit). I've never seen one like this that is over 3/8" in and out.
Also, how many orig. miles were on your car when you replaced these parts, and, why did you?
I should point out again that my car has about (equal to) 52,500 miles - as I type this. It has yet to be licensed this year and I expect to do this tomorrow (April 21). We hope to use it on trip to Bellingham in early May so only two weeks from now.
In meantime, I had the new tires mounted ($108.!) but yet to be installed on car. Brakes look like new with still over 60% left on original pads. Fluid replaced last October.
I also removed the Cat-Cons due to suspected gasket leak - somewhere. I ordered new (gaskets) last July so will get that done today - - I hope. Insides of all 3 converters are perfect. I recall warranty work about 20 years ago (11K. kms.) when the first converter failed as pieces broke off and partially restricted the large (second) convertor. That was done under warranty but I had to drive to Penticton to do it as that was closest dealer. Car was originally from Burnaby.
No issues with exhaust since then and when 'warmed-up' you can breath the (hot) exhaust and there is no 'smell'. (but I wouldn't advise it). lol

Sorry off topic a bit but I do love to type.

 

The in-line fuel filter i used is; WIX Filters - 33095 Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1; this is the listing as it appears right now on Amazazon. I got mine at a local O'Rileys auto parts. There are other brands of the same filter if you just search for: "1/2" inlet/outlet fuel filter.

When I search on my google bar for DENSO 9513003 fuel pump, one of the results is the rock auto listing. It is the generic listing for the pump. Now, I have to do it on my PC or tablet and not on my phone, but the pump number is in blue. When I click on the blue number it shows all the vehicles that it is supposed to work for. There are from Acura Integras '85-8? to Mitsubishi Starions, and a few others, all within the same year models as the RX7.

My car had 104,300 miles when I got it. It was bought in '85 by a 59yo man. Story goes that when he passed his 49 yo son at the time got the car and did not drive it much. It is basically stock aside from a few things, like a front mounted oil cooler I installed after taking out the Chinese monstrosity he put on after the original broke about 10 years ago. Of course, these tanks tend to rust inside if not kept full, and with the advent of ethanol gas and a mostly parked car inside, with also a bad redkote sealing job in the tank, it was a mess. Like I said in a previous post, you can check my profile and see what I went through. Hope this helps.

Oh, if you put on that in line filter, I would get at least two of them if you don't know the condition of the tank inside. Make sure you get a couple of hose clamps. Also measure many times where you plan to cut the line. I will advice to leave a long enough piece of rubber in front of the filter that will not kink, but that most of the exit pipe of the filter, or all of it, fits inside without getting to the hard line. At the same time, make sure you don't cut it too deep towards the tank so that it is difficult to take off the clamp at the tank side. It is going to be a tight fit since 1/2" is larger than the 12mm rubber line. Some petroleum based lubrication (vaseline) may be helpful.

I did use the 3/8" see through filters for a while after my initial debacle. I can't say I noticed any fuel starvation. They are cheaper, more readily available, and you can better asses what is coming out of you tank for at least a tank or two. Just make sure you clamp them well to the line. They will seal. Good luck.