GSL-SE flooding!!!!! Please help
#1
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GSL-SE flooding!!!!! Please help
Ok I have an 84 gsl-se that I just got running yesterday, it was running perfectly idling around 1 grand steadily and no smoke or nothing. well I go out to start it this morning and it acts like its about to start and then it just goes to normal cranking and floods out...so i take out the plugs (they are soaked) and i clean them off and crank the engine over and blow all the fuel out...
I put the plugs back in (checked for all of them sparking first) and it did the same exact thing and flooded again....
Any ideas? It was runnin perfectly yesterday and now nothing....
I put the plugs back in (checked for all of them sparking first) and it did the same exact thing and flooded again....
Any ideas? It was runnin perfectly yesterday and now nothing....
#2
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Pull the blue spade connector off of the trailing coil. Hold down the gas pedal and crank and see if she'll fire for a few seconds. Removing the blue spade connector will kill the injectors and help to clear the fuel out of the engine. Once it fires a time or two, put the connector back and try to start normally.
For the GSL-SE, the normal starting procedure is to press the accelerator to the floor once and then crank. This sets the fast idle cam.
When you started it yesterday, did the car fully warm up before you shut it off? Sometimes a quick start and shut-off will cause flooding problems when you go to start the car the next time.
For the GSL-SE, the normal starting procedure is to press the accelerator to the floor once and then crank. This sets the fast idle cam.
When you started it yesterday, did the car fully warm up before you shut it off? Sometimes a quick start and shut-off will cause flooding problems when you go to start the car the next time.
#3
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ya i let it run for about an hour and a half and drove it around some. i pulled out the injector fusible link and did the cranking and put it back in and it did the same thing, acted like it was going to fire but nothing.
#6
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keep us posted. if you need injectors cleaned and flow tested, witch hunter performance is a great place. i've used them many times wih excelent results. their website is www.witchhunter.com
gsl-se addict is 100% correct on his method of helping to start the car. sometimes you need to remove the plugs and crank the engine to blow out some of the gas and clean the plugs before the engine will start. i've even had to add a small amount of oil to the lower plug holes to help assist the engine in starting.
gsl-se addict is 100% correct on his method of helping to start the car. sometimes you need to remove the plugs and crank the engine to blow out some of the gas and clean the plugs before the engine will start. i've even had to add a small amount of oil to the lower plug holes to help assist the engine in starting.
#7
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Yep. If you do crank it over with the plugs out, please remember to kill spark. The fuel vapor + spark = not good.
You may have leaking or sticking injectors. Also, while you are at it, I would change the coolant temp sensor in the back of the water pump. They are only about $17 and usually in stock at the major autopart stores. This is the primary sensor that the GSL-SE ECU uses to determine fuel amount. If this sensor is bad or if there are poor connections, then the ECU will go rich. In fact, it will flood like mad if disconnected or if the wires are broken. Be careful with this connector as it is probably very brittle due to age.
You may have leaking or sticking injectors. Also, while you are at it, I would change the coolant temp sensor in the back of the water pump. They are only about $17 and usually in stock at the major autopart stores. This is the primary sensor that the GSL-SE ECU uses to determine fuel amount. If this sensor is bad or if there are poor connections, then the ECU will go rich. In fact, it will flood like mad if disconnected or if the wires are broken. Be careful with this connector as it is probably very brittle due to age.
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#9
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Well i put the other injectors in, and got the new water temp sensor and did the put oil in the plug holes and it fired up! Thanks guys for the input.
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tires huh? try www.tirerack.com
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Before I knew much about my -SE I would just pull the EGI fuse and crank it for a little bit and it would start and replace the fuse. If it didn't start w/in 5 seconds, I would replace the fuse while cranking and it would then start.
Might help, also I was told that allot of people would just install a momentary kill switch in the EGI circuit to do the same thing.
Might help, also I was told that allot of people would just install a momentary kill switch in the EGI circuit to do the same thing.
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well i found another bug in the SE today, when i go down the road and dont get past half throttle the rpm's will run up as far as i want but as soon as i put my foot in it it goes to 6k and cuts out...any ideas what that might be?
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oh, one thing i forgot to mention was that under partial throttle, it will go as high as i want and not cut out but as soon as i give it full throttle it cuts out