I was wondering, instead of getting out of the car in this cold crappy weather, what would be the problem with installing a disable switch in the wiring for the "blue spade connector" that you pull off the leading coil on the GSL-SE to disable the fuel?

I figure snip the wire, solder 2 new long pieces in there, run them into the interior to a switch, and instead of getting out to pull that sucker to unflood it, just flip the switch, floor it, crank it for a few seconds, let go, turn it back on, and fire 'er up.

 

You can pull the engine fuse to disable the fuse in the car and not worry about putting a switch. Is it hard for you to pull the fuse out? Depending were you're thinking of putting your switch its not much different.

 

That's what I did when I had my SE, cheap (FREE) and easy. How often do get both?

 

I was kinda thinking it'd be just a bit easier to run a switch with some wiring. I was just concerned that possibly the drop in voltage across that length of wire could cause a problem.

 

I tried the engine fuse thing and it didnt work, any of the numberous times it flooded, so I installed the switch works great!

 

The fuel pump wire goes out under the Driver's side bin.
I always put a small switch by the bin, near the seat belt anchor.

It's less to wire, and is a good theft prevention device as well.

 

Which wire is the fuel pump wire?

 

 

I'm not talking about the fuel pump switch.. I'm not screwing with that, I don't want to touch it.

I'm talking about the BLUE SPADE CONNECTOR that you pull to disable the fuel *injectors*

Putting some wiring inline on that wire with the blue spade connector, and putting a switch inbetween the two.

Crap let me draw you ladies a picture..

 

I used to own a 1990 Turbo ][. It flooded very often.
I was very used to pulling the EGI fuse and cranking it to unflood.

I rigged up a switch to turn off the fuel pump. When I stop the car I turn off the fuel pump which immediately killed motor.

When it was time to start the motor, I switched on the fuel pump and it started right up EVERY TIME.

Fuel pump switches are also good anti-theft devices.

 

ok. I thank you... again.. for the fuel pump idea.

Now.. somebody.. my previous post..

 

Why not figure out why the car is flooding in the first place?

My SE has never flooded this first year I have had it.

 

Good question.. good question.. probably a leaky injector. That seems like too much work to fix and I've never done it myself either.. I dunno

 

Well if you haven't ever had them cleaned then maybe it's time to send them off to be cleaned and flow balanced. They are only like 19 years old. It's like $10-25 depending upon where you send them.

 

yeah but removing them (getting to them) is kinda a pain

 

The blue spade your talking about is for the trailing coil. I had the same prob with mine flooding, I could never get that trick to work. I pulled everything off to get to the injectors (really its not that hard). Once I had the injectors pulled I was going to send them in but then I thought about it. If I have bad injectors what are they going to do? Nothing, they cant rebuild them. So I decided to see what was up. I blew through each injector, one flowed the other didnt. There was my flooding issue. I took a 9V battery and some wire and hooked it up to the injector that air was going through (your looking for an audible click when you do this) once it was open I blew through the other side- out came something cause after that I couldnt get air through it anymore (unless the battery was hooked to it). Easy fix that took 10 minutes and all the intake associated crap needed a really good cleaning anyway. BUT if a band aid is all your looking for then I would suggest the fuel pump switch, it would be the most reliable and opening the hood wouldn’t be required.

 

I give up

Seriously.. would a mod please put in big huge 48 point font with bold letters.. I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT THE FUEL PUMP SWITCH.

Seriously though, I thank you all for your concern with the fuel pump, but I'm mainly concerned with the blue spade connector.

 

I've done this in the past, by making the injector flow degreaser, mineral spirits, etc. It works well. Cleans them to like new specs. You can even see how much better they flow afterwards.


Barwick, we know.

The Fuel pump switch is the solution to your problem. The reason everybody posts it, is because it works, it's simple, and you don't have to screw with your injectors.

Sorry to repeat it, but please feel free to solve your problem in a more complicated way.

 

Dude, I'm sorry but I don't want to cut off my fuel pump every single time I shut my car off. I don't feel like it leaning out and stalling every single time.

 

This sure ended up being a long thread! Oh well. Lots of advice given some taken but in defense for you Barwick, from looking at your diagram that you posted, just splice a toggle switch from the connector (blue spade) coming off your trailing ignitor. That will give you what YOU want not what WE are trying to advise you on. Its your car man, and as long as you own it outright, the hell with everything else. We collectively have a lot of experience that is great to pass along. The next time you want answers quit pounding our heads if you don’t like what we say. Do your own ****, then post your results. Nothing more frustrating when you’ve been down the road and some one comes along ignoring or questioning the advice you asked for in the first place. This forum is for helping the uneducated rotor/rx-7 folks out there to make our lives a little easier, take it to a garage and see the looks you get, especially when they ask you how the engine works. Good luck my friend, with your car and your attitude.

 

Sorry I have a bad attitude when people can't read the quesiton.
Q: "What color is the sky?"
A: "TUESDAY!!!"
My bad, I'll stop getting mad when people do that. I thanked them for their help, and then just got tired of it.

Anyhow, I decided to get a 30A (overkill I know) automotive relay, wire IT to the switch, and use the relay right next to the blue spade connector, so there's little to no extra wiring distance or resistance added to the wire.

 

You have any pics? How does it work? Keep us posted.

 

got it finished last night, gonna drive it in an hour or so and see if it works right.

 

Finished testing: It works great. Unfloods the thing every time I need it to, and runs exactly like it did before without the switch/relay in there.

 

my SE is flooded and i just did a quick search around here to find the unflooding procedure.

i'm supposed to unhook the blue spade connector from the leading coil and then what? just turn the car over a few times, and then reconnect the spade connector and it should fire up?

thanks,
brad