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GSL-SE Engine seized tight...

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Old 03-12-05, 11:17 AM
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GSL-SE Engine seized tight...

I got my GSL-SE a week ago and I find out the engine is siezed up tight. I tried to spin it by had with help of the alt belt, but no luck. I get the 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar and no luck.. I let it sit with MMO for about 3 days and I go and try to see if it broke loose and this morning, and no luck. It had a pulsation dampener fire and it took out the OMP lines and some wire, but was said it ran when that happened. What do you think my next steps are? I have the plugs out and manifolds off, so its stuck.. A little advise would be good, thanks.
Old 03-12-05, 12:24 PM
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If it's siezed that bad, then MMO isn't corrosive enough to get through what's holding it. Either there's something physically in there holding it (like a bolt, or something), or it's really REALLY bad carbon. You basically have nothing to lose at this point short of a rebuild, so I'd say break out the ATF. It's pretty corrosive stuff when it comes to carbonlock. Put it in the plug holes, the intake, the exhaust holes... soak it. If that doesn't do it, then you'll HAVE to rebuild.

See if you can get a light and a mirror to get a look in the exhaust ports to find out what's going on... it could be more serious than carbon, but try the last-ditch effort of ATF and see what happens.

Jon
Old 03-12-05, 12:41 PM
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Acknowledged. Thank you. I will try this before I assume rebuild. PS theres alot junk posts lately EI the oversized rotors that rx7 doctor posted... thanks again viper!
Old 03-12-05, 09:37 PM
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As a sidenote - I wouldn't force that engine over. SE cores are hard to come by these days, and if you go the rebuild route, you're going to need clean rotor housings that haven't been damaged by overtorquing on a crushed seal or expelled apex seal that's jammed in there.

You could be costing yourself some serious money for new housings if you just grab a breaker bar and go to town.

If nothing else, the ATF will be your best bet at this point until you figure out if it's toast. Good luck, reply back,
Old 03-12-05, 10:32 PM
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Have you tried turning it backwards, gently? If you can move it a little, then decarbon it and see if it will move further. Sometimes you can get them loose by slowly and gently rocking them back and forth. Do not force it.

Good luck.
Old 03-12-05, 10:56 PM
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I bet it needs a teardown.
Old 03-13-05, 09:17 AM
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I get NO movement at all any way I try. So rocking it is out of the question. I just fear that it like completly rusted up and stuff like that. I have atf in it as of now and I'll check it today... I'm not happy about this at all to say the least.
Old 03-13-05, 01:03 PM
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If you can't get even a half inch of movement out of the pulley in either direction after ATFing the bugger, then it's time for a rebuild for sure.

I assume you've read the decarbonizing a rotary article in the archive? I say that because I usually recomment AGAINST ATF unless it's a last resort like it is here. I just want to make sure that anyone searching this thread up later doesn't assume they should use ATF, but instead actually read the whole article first

I used ATF... but even though it unsiezed my engine and has let me continue driving the car, I still want to rebuild it, because it's kinda gutless...

Jon
Old 03-13-05, 01:18 PM
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Oh yea I know what your saying, ATF wasnt even on my list because I dont believe in it. I went straight for MMO, but it didnt work and I had extra ATF around for my van so I tried and I still yet to try to move the thing over. All these ppl say was try ATF, I reply no, I'll use MMO. If MMO doesnt work, it prolly isnt going to work with ATF.
Old 03-13-05, 01:33 PM
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My first impression was to just tear it down. I wouldn't even bother with magical liquids at that point.
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