jerij

iTrader: (5)

Recently loosened my 6 ports. Along the way, replaced a number of brittle/breaking hoses, rebuilt the OMP, cleaned the injectors, replaced the injector electrical connectors, gaskets, the usual.

Got it cranked and the car will NOT idle. It "searches" continuously until it finally goes dead.

My best guess is a "violent" vacuum breach. If so, where is my most likely point? Either way, I'm gonna have to drag all that crap back off the top of the engine for the 3rd time. (Yes, I didn't tighten my fuel lines down when I replaced them and the first time I cranked I shot fuel all over the place). It had the funky idle then too.

jerij

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I would definitely think vacuum leak as it has the symptoms. Check everything you've touched. Did you change the injector seals?

xXGslseSleeperXx

Excactly what he said^ Every one of those things will cause your symptoms except for the OMP. and also correct^, if your positive that you replaced everything tightly but didnt replace the injector seals, that will give you a pretty noticable leak in vacuum

jerij

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I did replace the seals. They "appeared" to seat correctly. I got them from Mazdatrix also.

Crap.....

jerij

jerij

iTrader: (5)

Is there a better choice/place for the seat/seal?

I might as well change those out again if it's a possible cause.

jerij

gerald m

You could try some propane , just open the valve on your torch without lighting it and with engine running just direct the nozzle everywhere there might be a chance of a vacuum leak . if there is a leak you will notice a big difference in the way it runs but you need to be in there real close or the propane just dissipates and won't do anything . Gerald m.

xXGslseSleeperXx

there are a lot of places you can get them from, but they will most likely all come from the same company. Mazdatrix doesn't actually make them, they just supply them. so long as they fit over the pintle of the injector snug and you snugged down the fuel rail they shuld be fine. Make sure the solid grommet is on the bottom, and the other one(with the indented recess) is on top. if you believe this is correct, it might be time to look at some other possibilities of where the leak is coming from.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Propane is a bit dangerous for vacuum leak detection i'd recommend using brake cleaner. It works just the same, not as dangerous. But I would just remove and reseal everything you removed and check gaskets, any gasket you havent replaced do it and then you should be good.

Rotary13B1

iTrader: (8)

Get a can of CARB cleaner and use that instead.

If everything was working before, it should after. Find the leak.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Carb cleaner is good too but it rapes paint, just be careful where you spray it.

G-man

iTrader: (2)

I would double check vacuum hose routing as well as electrical connection to the BAC. Have you ever replaced the vacuum hoses? I found that after removing my original hoses from the tubes they never really seated properly again. I also found cracks in some of the hoses. It's a cheap fix if the UIM is off already.

xXGslseSleeperXx

just make sure its not something simple before you start tearing it all down.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

I use WD-40 for searching for a leak. I've heard that the WD-40 oil temporarly seals the leak and thats why the engine kicks up idle speed.

jerij

iTrader: (5)

Yes on the hoses. When I took the UIM/LIM off to get to my 6-ports, a ton of them broke. One on the cruise was already broken (found that problem anyway). I balk at lock-tying them all down.

I agree on the injector seals also. It's hard to see how they could be losing vacuum when the fuel rail appears to have zero tolerance for a misfit.

jerij

jerij

iTrader: (5)

OK, it's NOT a vacuum leak. I took upper and lower intake off. Re-seated the injectors, copper coated the gaskets, double checked EVERYTHING. The exact same issue.

I'm turning my attention now to something electronic. Besides the AFM ( I think I've ethered it to death trying to crank with a dead fuel pump) and the computer, what else is there?

jerij

xXGslseSleeperXx

i know it cant idle but can you at least get it to stay on at any rpm? the computer for the SE really doesn't go bad(unless it got wet,which happends to so many SE's, but youll know when it does cuz the carpets soaked).Starter fluid won't ruin the afm(its just a vane with a potentiometer and spring, even if you somehow damaged the IAT it will still run). if she doesn't run and your absolutely positive that there is no vacuum leak, start checking for fuel and spark. fuel pressure, injector firing, proper spark, ect.,ect. any thing to do with those two systems. if it just doesn't idle start with your BAC

jerij

iTrader: (5)

BAC I will start. The car fires right up. The idle surge on start-up looks/sounds normal. It's when the tach/RPM's comes back down immediately after the crank, it won't settle at the "cold" RPM setting and then slowly drop to normal. It comes down and settles on "dead".

If I keep feathering the accelerator, it will continue to run, albeit with an occasional hiccup and subsequent more fervent feathering.

jerij

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

How does your O2 Sensor look?

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

also adjust the tps.

Read through this if you haven't already: Solving GSL-SE Idle Problems

jerij

iTrader: (5)

I'll check the O2S.

I swapped out a TPS from an identical (almost) car. No change on either car.

Next I was going to swap the BAC, AFM to see what/any effect.

Also, I'm not sure if any of the solenoids are capable of causing such a dramatic effect on the idle (and damn, they are a pita to remove.....)

jerij

xXGslseSleeperXx

the engine is in open loop at the cold rpm you are describing. so an o2 isn't gunna be your problem! What happends at say 3000rpm or more? Is there still a hiccup? Check the bac first but if the problem persists at these higher rpm's then start looking into your ignition system. also if there is no problem in the upper rpm's i would say the afm is fine, at idle the vane is closed and air bypasses it thru a channel in the side if it. Unless you messed with the variable resistor(which we all know not to do)it wont have a rough idle. (im not sure if the tps gets looked at in open loop either, but somebody do correct me if im wrong)

xXGslseSleeperXx

(i know it dictates open loop once the o2 warms up but during warm up time is it read by the computer?I only say this because during warm up time on my GTU if you unplug it and the computer reads 5v it makes no difference until it starts seeing a signal from the o2, thrn it goes rich and starts dying)

jerij

iTrader: (5)

OK, BAC is good as is AFM (I switched out parts on an identical "good running" GSL/SE).

And you're correct, at 2k-3k+, smooth and even. But as that tach drops to "idle", it just can't catch and falls right through the floor.

Not a lot left, the O2S, some solenoids....

I did put new injector connectors on the car but am POSITIVE (well, almost :-) ) I wired them correctly. I don't think I'd get a smooth 2-3k with that screwed up.

It's got to be something simple I've overlooked.

jerij

xXGslseSleeperXx

O2 will only make a difference in closed loop. This does happen when its cold and hot rite? Does it smell really rich at say 1000-1500rpm?any black soot? What is the voltage at the coils?

jerij

iTrader: (5)

Idle problem at cold and warmed up. It does run slightly better warmed though.

It smells rich at all RPM's/temps.

No "extensive" black soot noted.

Haven't checked any ignition components yet.

jerij