So what are they, are there any horror stories I should know about bc I'm about to buy one and I need to know ASAP? Help a potential FB owner out guys.

 

I snatched my SE from the jaws of the crusher (I should setup a desk next to The Crusher: now I'm saving an Alfa 164L). After tuning it up, getting a little body work, new Silver paintjob, flooding it with the garden hose, scrubbing and wetvacing, etc, it's turning into a good car.

Though it has 150k, it's rust-free and tight, so I'll sell my primo 85GSL and use the SE as a DD.

I can't think of any cons specific to the SE, but like all 7s you gotta watch out for rust in the bin area, low compression, coolant leaks, etc.

 

not really any cons, they are the tightest fb. ( although the heaviest)
cons i can think of are minor like power windows and rear wiper.
they have a pretty awesome motor, poss 300k if well maintained.

 

^Thats just what I needed to hear, I need it to last a little while(a year) without any major problems like constantly blowing seals and yes I will be takin it easy in it and maintaining it well

 

Pulsation dampner. They tend to fail, leak and cause engine fires. This lovely item was carried over to the FCs also.

If you find a fuel leak under the UIM, replace it Immediately. There is also a banjo bolt mod to replace it. New PDs are 100+, banjo bolt-7.

 

I just replaced the fuel lines under the uim and did a vac hose job on mine. I guess I should have replaced the PD. THe little fuel lines under there were cracked and leaking.

All in all my SE has 207000 mi and still runs good. At some point it will need a motor. There is a ton of support here on the forum, and everything that could go wrong has happened before.....just search and you will find the answer. Spend some time in the FAQ thread and the related links. Good luck.

 

Where is Ennis?

 

the SE is a good car overall. my dislikes are VERY few. the only thing i can really think of is that the window seals have failed around the window and i get an awful howling and wind noise when i'm cruising on the highway. in addition to the rust concern, watch out for failing or leaking bypass air control valves, vaccume leaks, injector leaks, and faulty or out of adjustment throttle position sensors. the major mechanicals will last a lifetime if properly maintained.

 

Thanks guys, now how much do you think a well maintained SE with say 100K on it is worth?

 

If it is in really good shape it should sell for 3-5k. I mean I've seen some go for more than that, but I wouldn't pay much more than 4k for a great running one with very minor exterior damage and only 100,000 miles on her. If everything were mint on it I'd say 5. I may be shooting high baller status, but that's my two cents.

 

IMHO $1500-3000. One that looks like Berns then whatever he asks for it is probably worth it. From the SE's i've seen around very few would be worth over $3k. If garraged, original paint in almost perfect condition, interior 8 out of 10, engine bay very clean....then the car will fetch a premium. If your in Ennis TX I can show you a very nice SE that I paid $1500 for, but it's not for sale, I'll restore it one of these days.

 

The only thing I have heard about is if driven a short distance after a cold start, shut down and then restarted soon after (like a trip to the store) the ecu still thinks the car is starting from a cold start and will want to give the engine a rich mix again, but the car has been warmed up and does not need the rich mix and will flood. A flooded rotory is bad.
Anybody else heard / experianced this?
Mine is a GS. I have a GSL-SE parts car that had this problem, they fixed it with a switch for the fuel pump under the dash. Turn off the fuel pump while the car starts, turn it on after it's started. I don't know, worked for the last owners.

 

I haven't had the flooding problem, but sometimes it dies at idle and I have to keep a little throttle pressure to keep running. Seems to only happen in moderate weather when I startup after it sits for a couple hours. No big problem.

 

$800-$2000 if it is all original. $2500 if it has a new engine.

 

It's not the ecu, it's worn, leaking injectors that is the major cause of flooding. Having them rebuilt solves the problem.

SE injectors are at a premium, as they are an easy upgrade for the S4 TIIs.

 

When I was worried about worn SE injectors it seems to me I easily found rebuilts for about $50 each. What I thought was flooding turned out to be leaking coolant, which I easily solved with the 'temporary fix' employing colloidally suspended copper.

 

As stated before,most of the things to watch out for are items that apply to all 1st gens.....things like rust in the bins,leaky oil coolers,power windows,ect.....

The majority of the SE specific problems are with the engine,and not surprisingly most of those issues also apply to the 2nd gens as well,since their engines evolved from the SE engine.....
Leaky injectors
Sticky AFM doors
P/D leaks
Rough idle/no hot-start
Theres lots of help here for these little problems since there are LOTS of FC's running around,although the SE remains relatively rare.
Ive also found that many SE's are in very good shape since they were a premium,limited model.Owners tended to take better care of them and/or not sell them off.....

 

cons. weight. and too many power accessories. MAF sensor is limited to about 200 hp. It flows crap.

 

I don't see power accessories as a minus. The amount of weight that power windows and rear wiper add are negligable, and unless it's a 100% track car the amenities are more than worth having a few pounds of extra weight.

From my perspective, cons of GSL-SEs are that they are far less reliable than 12As, and get worse gas mileage.

A pro is that pristine stock examples will someday be worth a lot of money, I think.

 

20+ year old electric motors are not always the greatest.
i HATE how the windows dont roll down all the way!!

 

My two 85s both have electric windows: no problem. Pick up an extra motor at the JY and keep the channels slippery with silicon lube spray.

 

If I blew the seals out which would be cheaper rebuild kit or just buying another 13b and swapping it, and please give me some prices?