OK... I got it running. I wired up the choke but I don't know why I bothered, it starts fine in -12 weather without it... The choke still isn't working 100% right.. if I pull it out the engine will rev super high...

The starter wiring was totally hosed.. so it's now got a pushbutton starter. . Racecar/honda s2000 style..

I FIXED THE SECONDARIES! YAY! the car pulls HARD up high... but only for about 5-10 seconds at WOT.. then it coughs/splutters/etc... It's even stalled once or twice. Maybe the carb isn't seeing enough fuel? Is there any way I can test this? Could it maybe be the fuel filter?

If it is, WHERE IS IT? I can't find the thing anywhere...

Thanks again!

 

Um -SE's don't have a carb...

They are EFI

The feule filter is just infront of the left rear wheel under the are (in a GSL)

anthrax

 

gslse with a 12a? how? gslse have 13B FI from the factory

 

The thread title needs to be changed. This guy is gonna get too much **** for it.

 

Rebuild the carb, you'll see worlds of difference. Careful on how you start a thread too. Good Luck.

 

he may have a dellorto or weber setup on it.....

my dellorto(when working correctly) runs out of gas after a good 10 second pull at WOT from the pump being too weak....

 

it's a 12A with a stock Nikki...

 

I've herd of that before. Its called no money and can't find a 13b. So you put a 12a in there. oh well, works all the samee.

 

haha no, I purchased it with the 12a already in it.

 

thats how i got my 85 gsl-se....but i found an engine donor for her.

 

I waited a bit to post in on this, but here's my suggestion to help with your top end leaning out;

First off, you need to determine whether your car is an SE (true blue) or not... The reasons why this is important is that it's awfully hard to point you in the right direction if we don't know what model car you have - obviously there are vast differences between a Factory carb, aftermarket carb, and EFI system.

Look under your hood on the passenger side at the VIN plate and see if it has "PA132" in the VIN after the FBxx. This will indicate whether the car left the Mazda factory as a GSL-SE with fuel injection. If it has a 12a with a carb now, you need to know whether it's using the high-pressure (30-40psi) EFI fuel pump, or if the prior owner has installed an aftermarket low-pressure pump (3-10psi). Also, look at the driver's side of the engine block to either side of the oil filler neck for the text "MAZDA 13B" - this is an indication of a 13b engine over a 12a.

If your frame/chassis is an SE, you can expect that the following EFI systems are still in place, unless you can verify otherwise;

1) EFI fuel pump, way too overpowered to use with a carb without making modifications to the pressure regulator,
2) EFI fusible links for ECU and Injectors (non-existant on your car, and probably not a factor)
3) Big brakes (10" vented discs front and rear - actually 9.9" front and 10.1" rears...) - important if you want to know if your car is setup to perform well, overall
4) SE alternator? Maybe? hard to tell
5) SE oil cooler - important if you have oil leaks common to the SE coolers
6) LSD rear end (see #3, above)

To get to the point, your carb'd 12a in the 13b chassis will probably need a low pressure pump to replace the high pressure pump for this to work correctly. The fuel filter for either EFI or carb systems is located in front of the rear axle under the driver's side of the car. The EFI filter is huge in comparison to the carb one, but they both can be changed out in about 1/2 hour or less.

This is a good starting point to fix a problem with fuel starvation at sustained high rpm running. Also, any fuel pressure regulator that you have could be opened up a bit to allow more flow as long as your needle valves and seats will handle it - you'll know if it won't, rich mixture, black exhaust and no throttle response.

Check these things and then report back with what you find.

 

It's an -SE. Really. I promise.

It's got a 12A with a stock nikki carb. I promise this too.

the EFI fusable links are there, I don't think that the EFI fuel pump is, I can't see it being there, it would just overpower the carb instantly wouldn't it?
The brakes are there.. I dunno about the alternator. Doesn't look like the alternator that I have from an '81 GSL.
The -SE oil cooler is gone or at least not hooked up, it's got the beehive one. I have no oil leaks anyways.
It's got LSD.

How do I tell what fuel pump is there?

I don't think that it's leaning out, it's just suddenly not getting fuel.

 

man somebody frankensteined the hell outta this thing.

 

meh, the rest of the car is a beauty and I'd take the simplicity of a carb over EFI with their touchy TPS and AFM and ....

my damn TII has got me hating EFI, lol

Besides, for being an old carby 12A, I can't believe how fast this car feels... Definatly not the midrange torque of a TII, but wow, it's not bad at all! The aftermarket exhaust on here must make a world of difference, performance wise...

Another problem (probably NOT related).. And it's probably my fault.. the choke heater is missing.. I made the choke work with the cable anyways by wiring up the linkage, but when I pull it with the car cold the engine revs WAY superhigh (I dunno how high because I always push it back in when it hits about 5k or so). What could be wrong here?

 

Ooooooh! Sucks for you, man! You got ripped off!

Are you sure it's a GSL-SE? Is it 84 or 85?

Eeh, it's all good. Work with what you have.

 

Ripped off? Yeah right, I'd rather have the 4port 12a than a 6port 13b. I'd also rather have a base model or GS so I don't have the extra weight of the sunroof and other bullshit, then put in a GSL rear end myself, but that's just me.

Also, this guy's not a ******* moron, he knows what he bought and he doesn't have any problem with it.

 

You should really change the fuel filter. It's underneath the car on the drivers side, just in front of the rear tire. There should be a mounting plate or two there that might be covering up the pump and filter.

The pump could be anything, as long as it has a pressure regulator a high pressure pump will work fine. But if it's still starving for fuel after replacing the filter then it's probably a 12a pump. They barely put out engough for a stock 12a, so upgrade it soon.

 

Apparently I still haven't made this clear.

I PROMISE THAT IT IS A GSL-SE. REALLY!

 

I understand Terrh's sentiments exactly. I would rather have an SE with a carbed 12a than a 13b w/EFI any day. Much less to hassle with. I like things that are more mechanical, less to wonder about.

Sounds like you'll have a great car there once you get these little bugs worked out.

Definately check the filter and pump. Also, take a look at the carb, a rebuild may certainly be in order.

Good luck, and have fun!

Brian

 

don't you HATE when the computer munches your reply when you're busy typing the 5th paragraph? augh!

ok, lets try this again lol

I installed a new fuel filter. there wasn't an old one. The stock -SE one was there but it wasn't in the system, the lines just went back to itself. WTF? So I took it off and into the trash it went. There was a small white plastic thing near the fuel pump that looked like a filter and was full of brown crap so I took it off adn put my new inline filter there. After I got it off I realized that it's probably the rollover valve... oops.

Anyways, the car still wants to die after 5-10 seconds at WOT. What's the next thing to check? fuel pump? hwo do I do this? just find something that will hold 1.4 liters and see if it fills it up in a minute? or what?

 

Man, people need to buy fuel pressure gauges. It does SO MUCH for diagnosis.

People constatly assume that fuel ok. Pulled the hose off and it smells like gas, must be getting fuel.

Helped this kid fix his car who though he was getting too much fuel so he put a rfegulator on and turned down his fuel prsssure to where it would run (at 1 lb) and hey it would bog out! Well when the pressure was back up at 4 lbs or so fuel would just flow into the carb.

Sorry, ranting there. Back to the 12A GSLSE. Check your fuel pressure!! Buy a gauge (autozone 25$) hook it up and seewhat it says. As soon as you do that run a fuel volume test. This is easy (I promise).

That way you can check what LongDuck says and see whoever swaped the in the 12A swaped the fuel pump too. I don't know if the pumps look alike or even if they were in the same location.