Grinding noise from transmission area while in nuetral & car trying to go forward.
#1
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Grinding noise from transmission area while in nuetral & car trying to go forward.
What could be making a grinding style of a noise when in neutral but not when in gear?
its like the cars trying to push forward when its in neutral, almost like its stalling out.
its like the cars trying to push forward when its in neutral, almost like its stalling out.
#2
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First thing that jumps to mind is the clutch isn't disengaging properly. My clutch has been doing that. I think it might be due to an improperly installed throwout bearing.
#3
Lives on the Forum
Yeah, my car had the same issue when I first bought it. There are a couple of bearings that get replaced with a clutch swap and that will take care of it, but if the clutch is still good then you might consider putting up with the noise for a while.
It is a little annoying, but I drove like that and got over 20K miles out of it before I had to replace the motor anyway. So it might last for a long time yet, even though its getting noisy. Then again, maybe it could fail tomorrow. Who knows? Good luck...
.
It is a little annoying, but I drove like that and got over 20K miles out of it before I had to replace the motor anyway. So it might last for a long time yet, even though its getting noisy. Then again, maybe it could fail tomorrow. Who knows? Good luck...
.
#4
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I also had the same issue. I would be in neutral and the clutch out, it would make the grinding noise. With the clutch pedal in, it would go away. It was time for a new clutch anyways so I got clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearing and problem was gone. If you don't need a clutch, just get the throwout and pilot bearings and you'll be fine. I invested in the mazda pilot bearing tool and works amazing. Put the new one in gently with a hammer and a 14mm socket iirc. Hope everything works out.
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how do you tell if clutch is good or bad
How do you tell if these are bad when outside the transmission?
Clutch Disc (Friction Plate)
Throwout Bearing (Release Bearing)
Pilot Bearing
Clutch Disc (Friction Plate)
Throwout Bearing (Release Bearing)
Pilot Bearing
#6
FB Maniac
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Throwout bearing should spin freely with little to no noise.
Clutch disc should not be close to or showing the little metal rivets that hold the material to the plate. If it show signs of cracking or glazing from heat and mileage then change it.
Pilot bearing should not show just a sleeve were the needle bearings once seated. 9 times out of 10 this needs to be replaced. There is also a seal that is located in front of the pilot bearing. Most damage these when trying to line up the engine to tranny's input shaft..
Hopefully this helps you out.
Clutch disc should not be close to or showing the little metal rivets that hold the material to the plate. If it show signs of cracking or glazing from heat and mileage then change it.
Pilot bearing should not show just a sleeve were the needle bearings once seated. 9 times out of 10 this needs to be replaced. There is also a seal that is located in front of the pilot bearing. Most damage these when trying to line up the engine to tranny's input shaft..
Hopefully this helps you out.
#7
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Also on the clutch disc make sure the springs on the disc are not loose and missing. If so trash it. Also check the clutch slave cylinder because this thing is so suspect to failure. Just changed mine out monday and it was leaking fluid past the piston but it did not show any signs of leaking outside the rubber boot holding the pin.
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#12
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sometimes it feels like it wants to
but i wasn't sure what it was
then again i whipped the starter off and all of the sludge around it off from when i tried to add trans fluid without a good tool to umm transfer haha the fluids
but i'll try it again tomorrow
i know after i swapped it from my SA to my FB I was driving it down the road and it was doing good then it just cut off probably due to the timing issues i was having but could that have been the flywheel or starter?
and last question
if it was the starter could that be the reason my battery won't stay charged for ****?
but i wasn't sure what it was
then again i whipped the starter off and all of the sludge around it off from when i tried to add trans fluid without a good tool to umm transfer haha the fluids
but i'll try it again tomorrow
i know after i swapped it from my SA to my FB I was driving it down the road and it was doing good then it just cut off probably due to the timing issues i was having but could that have been the flywheel or starter?
and last question
if it was the starter could that be the reason my battery won't stay charged for ****?
#14
Environmentally-Hostile
I would say pilot bearing. Its probably in the process of seizing itself onto the eccentric shaft. Mine did the same. You could start the car in neutral, but if you tried pushing it into gear, the engine would start applying torque (no matter if the clutch was in or out) to the rear wheels.
I would replace it asap if that is your problem. If it seizes completely, its a real pain in the *** to break free.
I would replace it asap if that is your problem. If it seizes completely, its a real pain in the *** to break free.
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Ok well I took the alternator to get checked at Orielly and they said it was good
but The battery is new as well
Lots of questions
To Sam : could that be why the battery is dying?
To everyone else:
1. I'm wondering if having gauges wired all to the actual battery could drain it even when the cars off?
and wait heres just a noob question but then again most of mine are haha
2. Ok the buzzer stays on when i turn the key and it sounds like the buzzer for a door or even the gauge
if the gauge has the need coolant light on and it stays on because it stays on (even if the fluids good) could that be making the gauge buzz? And how would I make the light go off?
but The battery is new as well
Lots of questions
To Sam : could that be why the battery is dying?
To everyone else:
1. I'm wondering if having gauges wired all to the actual battery could drain it even when the cars off?
and wait heres just a noob question but then again most of mine are haha
2. Ok the buzzer stays on when i turn the key and it sounds like the buzzer for a door or even the gauge
if the gauge has the need coolant light on and it stays on because it stays on (even if the fluids good) could that be making the gauge buzz? And how would I make the light go off?
#18
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Ok well I took the alternator to get checked at Orielly and they said it was good
but The battery is new as well
Lots of questions
To Sam : could that be why the battery is dying?
To everyone else:
1. I'm wondering if having gauges wired all to the actual battery could drain it even when the cars off?
and wait heres just a noob question but then again most of mine are haha
2. Ok the buzzer stays on when i turn the key and it sounds like the buzzer for a door or even the gauge
if the gauge has the need coolant light on and it stays on because it stays on (even if the fluids good) could that be making the gauge buzz? And how would I make the light go off?
but The battery is new as well
Lots of questions
To Sam : could that be why the battery is dying?
To everyone else:
1. I'm wondering if having gauges wired all to the actual battery could drain it even when the cars off?
and wait heres just a noob question but then again most of mine are haha
2. Ok the buzzer stays on when i turn the key and it sounds like the buzzer for a door or even the gauge
if the gauge has the need coolant light on and it stays on because it stays on (even if the fluids good) could that be making the gauge buzz? And how would I make the light go off?
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k well i was gonna try a starter from the 84 i had that was just laying around and well idk if i plugged it up right cause it wouldn't start the car
then plugged it up a different way and it was on just by plugging back up the negative
then plugged it up a different way and it was on just by plugging back up the negative
#24
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Sounds like you need to break out the test light. The main battery cable goes to the left big bolt on the starter. The small signal wire goes to the top spade connecter. The buzzer staying on all the time could be from a faulty low coolant sensor. You can take the wire going to the sensor on top of the radiator and ground it. The starter on the bridgeport was a S4 starter. 86-88 13B.