since we already have a good, bad, and ugly performance parts supplier thread, i decided to have the same except just for fluids. yes i know i am a biter for doing this, but i thought this might be a good way to provide knowlege to people with questions concerning about fluids or fluid additives. all people with questions about fluids they want to know more about or looking for answers about the effects and info will just have to come to this thread.

ill start first: for marvel mystery oil is it similar as lucas heavy duty oil stabilzer? which do you prefer and why? anybody heard of bar's leaks engine oil stop leak? any good?

all help is greatly appreciated! thanks!

 

I have my OMP blocked off on my 12a, but I currently am premixing with MMO and I have added lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer to the engine oil.

MMO is great stuff, but I haven't really had a chance to see the results of the Lucas stabilizer, I don't know if I would run it if I still had the OMP hooked up because it might not burn so cleanily.

 

what does it mean to have the omp blocked off? is premixing like a blend of motor oil with mmo? then does that mean you have motor oil, mmo, and lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer? thanks for the reply. i try to learn everything about our babies!

 

It means engine oil is no longer metered into the intake by the Oil Metering Pump. The pump does so to provide lubrication of the apex seals against the housings. Premixing involves adding oil to the fuel tank directly to compensate for the lack of the pump. People do this for +5 to Fire Resistance or something like that.

Bar's products had no discernable effect on my severe dowel pin oil leaks. Lucas' Heavy Oil Molasses did cut down on the leakage, but also cut some of my oil pressure and probably added a good deal of friction--my fuel economy has been down 2-3MPG since adding two quarts at my last oil change.

I highly recommend Red Line's MT-90 synthetic tranny fluid. It really does a number on worn syncros.

-dave

 

Well, with my OMP blocked off I put some MMO in my gas everytime I fill up. This keeps my fuel system and engine lubricated and clean (thats kinda the point). The thought process behind it is that dirty oil behind burnt in the combustion chamber doesn't burn very clean.

My OMP was leaking alot, and I was replacing the engine anyways, thats why I actually removed it. The best time to do something like that is when the engine is out, its easy to fab up a blocking plate. Don't think that this is a must do thing. Its just something that I did not only to clean up my engine bay but hopefully to clean the inside of the engine overtime from the MMO taking out the carbon deposits.

 

No way Royal purple in your tranny. Stuff is awesome. I had a problem getting it into 3rd now that I have added royal purple to my tranny There is no prob, plus I can feel the difference in power. I read the bottle and stuff on the net about it, thought it wouldnt help that much, BUT WOW was I wrong This Stuff ROCKS!!!

Royal Purple = bomb tight shyt!!

 

Royal Purple is good stuff...fixed my notchy shifting (140k+ will do that)
I use it in the engine, and tranny, and the rear differential
*gasp* synthetic in my rotary!!? yup, right you are ken
great stuff

 

Okay, Lucas is different than MMO and serves a completely different purpose. Lucas is much thicker, and its main benefit seems to be its ability to "crawl" around and get to places (at least in greater quantity) that plain motor oil doesn't. It definitely solved my oil control ring blowby issue and saved me a rebuild. I used roughly 2 quarts in place of motor oil when I used it. I did this for two oil changes, then stopped adding it and the problem has not returned. So yes, I highly recommend this stuff!

 

Also, for the tranny: Here is a trick from the old Datsu Z crowd. If you are having trouble shifting or if the synchros are grinding, try using a 50/50 mix of regular gear oil (or Lucas) and Automatic Transmission Fluid. The ATF still provides the needed lubrication, but also contains heavy concentrations of detergents which really pull the crud out of the synchros. The first time I tried this, I drained my fluid after about 2,000 miles and it was absolutely black (previously my fluid had been mostly clear, before adding the ATF). Shifting was much improved, and I was able to shift much quicker than before. After this, I returned to full gear oil. I have done this on several cars of various makes and it has always given good results. This information was taken from the book titled "how to hotrod and race your Datsun" and should be applicable to any standard type tranny.

 

that's a new one for me... might try that this week..

 

My bestfriend tried that 50/50 on his tranny. Made that old truck shift like new!

by the way I wanna run premix, but I dont know what type of two-stroke to use. Is it more of a trail and error? Also can you buy a block off plate? or is it custom fab only?

 

premix`s i use:
amsoil
yamalube

gear lubes:
royal purple
redline
lucas(so far so good..)

engine oil:
castrol
mobile 1

 

Premix
I like Walmarts Super Tech brand
i dont know how well it does on FULL premix tho

Oil: Castrol GTX

Addivtives
Lucas Oil Stabilizer is very good
STP Oil Additive (not sure of real name) helps stop smoking i have great results in both my friends cars.

 

do the fuel injector/fuel treatment/carb cleaner additive that you put in your gas tank do any good? any harm?

 

I've always wondered what weights of oil you guys genrally use for warm/cold weather in your rotaries. Where I live temp can fluctuate 50 far. without effort. Winter is coming here, so it will probably not stray too far from ***-biting cold often for the next few months. The oil I have in there now is a non-synthetic 5w30. It gives me just about perfect oil pressure right now when the temp ranges from 10-70 farenheit. The cold is already starting to set in, and I'm about ready for an oil change. Should I go for a different weight for winter? If so, what weight should I use? I'd just like to do anything I can to treat that fantastic machine even half as well as she's treated me.

Thanks all

 

Ahhh, now we come to the wonderful world of SeaFoam.. Here is my experience with it. I added one can to 1/8th of a tank of gas so that I'd have a really strong mixture. Then I took it out and drove it very hard (after the first few miles). There was some noticeable smoke due to the SeaFoam by the way. After about five miles of hard driving something let loose (in a good way) and all of a sudden I felt an extreme increase in horsepower (car was not noticeably slow to begin with either). All of a sudden she would just rocket to the redline and felt smoother too. However, I'd like to make something clear about this. This stuff is very good at freeing up stuck parts, and that can be bad as often as it is good. If you had a cracked apex seal that was partially stuck (so not under a whole lot of stress because its not really doing its job, so to speak) and the SeaFoam freed it up, then you could obviously end up with less than perfect results. I figure its a little bit of a gamble either way and like I said, my experience with it was very good. I just wouldn't try it right before a long trip or important race if you get my drift... Oh, and I'm sorry for the one long paragraph, but the comp at work won't let me post if its more than one paragraph for some reason...

 

yea go SeaFoam woot woot! i gotta try that.. burn some carbons