I'm going to fab my 3" exhaust this weekend. I have 6ea mandel U-bends. How hard is it to make the downpipe. My turbo have a V-band flange.. I have attached a few pics to give you a idea on what i need to do.. Any suggestions that may help me? thanks

 

lol i got a downpipe for you nice and cheep i made it for my turbo set up its got a bung in it for O2...(turbo got stolen so i sold everything) the down pipe is made out of 3" SS but i painted it black with hightemp header paint....let me know

 

Was it for a stock FC turbo? I think i will make it. going to get it ceramic coated..

 

no it was for a 3inch v-band clam...off of a t3 turbo...it was not hard to make iit was off of a powerstrokei cut it and made it shorter. adn i had a muffler shop bend the flang for the v-band clamp good luck

 

Would it hit my steering box/pitman arm? I have a RHD car..

 

i dont belave it would ill give it to yo ufor 30 shiped

 

i made mine except the downpipe. I didnt have any pipe bends so i managed to do it with just two welded angles. If you have to weld and angles just make sure you cut each pipe to weld at half the angle you want that way the metal matches all the way around and your angle will be right. I used ss sanitary pipe and a special clamp that sanitary pipe uses. I got it freebie from work and just the clamp is like $50. It will never rust period. I used a resignater from an HKS evo exhaust and a jegs muffler. Everything is 3" and it never crimps down. Total cost $75 for jegs muffler and gaskets and the downpipe $100 used RB.

 

Hey, send me pics of that. I might take it off your hands, I need a downpipe.

 

I'm WANT to come over to see and help you with this Gonzz! Let me know.

 

PM sent

 

My advice, tack all the bends on the car then drop it and weld it all on the floor. A couple flanges would be a good idea too. One after the downpipe and one before the diff or muffler.

 

I just finished up my 3" last week. Made the bends by cutting up the 3" intercooler pipe from a Ford diesel that has a recall, ( buddy is a Ford line mech). I'm NA, can't help you with the down pipe, but I can post pics of the over the axle piece. I have flanges at the end of the headers and just before the axle.

Takr REVHEAD's suggestion, tack it in place then remove to finish up the welds. It's a pita trying to weld all of it on the car.

 

post some pics..

 

Gonna use 3" V-bands for flanges. I got 3 sets.

 

I need to take some different pics, but here is a teaser. I had a piece of pipe and a couple of bends left, so I made a 'track' pipe. The pipe has 2-1/2" of ground clearance. Idling in the shop, I HAVE to wear ear plugs. Track pipe comes straight off the headers, no muffling at all.

 

Nice..

 

its got a v-band clamp on 1 side and waiting for your choice of flange on the other side

pm sent

cheers PaTricK

 

Is that your garage? Love the checkerplate floor.

 

Yep, that's the shop, oh and I 'accidently' cut a 4'x12' hole in the floor, it has a 54" high basement. I had 12"x12" vct tile on the floor and got very tired of trying to keep it clean. Aluminum treadplate is pricey, (cost as much as a full rebuild), but worth it in the long run.

Started to replace the old garage to park my big truck on, got carried away and now have a 7 specific shop to work in. I have no life anymore, just the 7's.

Treadplate makes it really noisy to roll a steel wheeled floor jack over. When first installed, I needed only one light to light the shop, can you say bling bling?

 

Shop and car looking good Scott, love that side pipe, bet you impress the neighbors with that....lol

 

Pics as per request. If you need different angles or closeups, say the word.

This is the 'track' pipe, lol.

















More to come.

 

hey scott why didint you go under the axle?

paTricK

 

The 2 pics with my fingers is for reference on how tight the clearances are. I have my fingers overlapped a little, there is less than a 2 finger width between the lower watts link arm and the the pipe, and the pipe and the body, (backside of the bin).

I was in a hurry when I first instaled the pipe, welded it together as one piece, header to muffler, to make the Lawrence BBQ in time. Last week I went back, cut the pipe for 2 flanges and added the hanger by the rear shock. I didn't have a single rattle or any bumping into the body, until I tied in the axle hanger. It is the hanger itself that rattles and may end up being gone.

Please pay no attention to the welds. I was woking on this from 1/p to 9/a, straight through. I tried welding the joints in place, not the preffered method. Then my wire feed ran out of wire and I dug out the stick welder, damp rods and all. 30 years ago I was a competent welder, but I am used to welding plate steel, (railroad cars) and never used flux core wire until I bought this wirefeed. I had leaks and goobers everywhere, most shameful.

When I went back to add the flanges and clean up the previous poor, leaky welds, I went through a 2 lb. roll of wire and had to finish up with the sick welder, again. Thank the powers that be for a decent side grinder.

Both mufflers are Magnaflow race series. The difference between the race and street series is the race inner diameter is the same as the pipe size. The inner perforated pipe on the street series narrows a bit to quiet them down.

All I can say is this system is quite loud, sounds like I just poured milk on my Rice Crispies, lots of snap, crackle pop. Had I had the extra cash, I would have gone with the Borla XR-1 as a presilencer.

Need anything else or pics from a different angle, holler.

Scott.

 

Thanks Steve. The neighbors are not impressed though. Especially since I am a night owl and tend to work in the shop until daylight many a night.

The track pipe won't make it out of my driveway with out being torn off, otherwise a quick trip around the block would be in order.

 

I don't want to tear it up, and the driveway presents a major problem. I have scrapes on the pre-silencer already, crawling out of the drive, across the sidewalk.