Getting Started - Nikki issue and electrical
06-20-12, 10:12 AM
#51
Sorry you're having so much trouble. Cars of this age can sometimes be challenging to work on - - This is why they call it a 'project.'
Look on the bright side: you're only 10 days into the project and you've got an engine that at least starts and runs, with what is quite possibly a single fault that needs to be found and fixed. You've got access to all the factory manuals, as well as a forum filled with a huge volume of searchable experience, and an active community of people willing to offer advice. All for free.
Please take this in the spirit it's offered, but if you can go from 'starting' to 'giving up' on a carb project in ten days' time with all those resources at hand, you might find working on 30-plus-year-old Japanese sports cars way too frustrating a hobby to enjoy much. Especially ones that were modified in possibly-questionable ways by the POs.
OEM carbs (Nikki or otherwise; all use much the same principles & those from the 80's all have a lot of compensating circuits) are not especially complicated machines, but they are relatively sensitive precision devices & you do have to take the time to understand how they and their associated parts work if you're going to be able to deal with them. Luckily, there's a ton of info available on them - unlike going aftermarket, where there often is no info at all about a particular app.
I wish you good luck with your project whichever way you take it - truly. But you have to be willing to put in some time and effort to get results, like any other hobby - - or you have to be willing & able to pay somebody else to do the hard parts.
Look on the bright side: you're only 10 days into the project and you've got an engine that at least starts and runs, with what is quite possibly a single fault that needs to be found and fixed. You've got access to all the factory manuals, as well as a forum filled with a huge volume of searchable experience, and an active community of people willing to offer advice. All for free.
Please take this in the spirit it's offered, but if you can go from 'starting' to 'giving up' on a carb project in ten days' time with all those resources at hand, you might find working on 30-plus-year-old Japanese sports cars way too frustrating a hobby to enjoy much. Especially ones that were modified in possibly-questionable ways by the POs.
OEM carbs (Nikki or otherwise; all use much the same principles & those from the 80's all have a lot of compensating circuits) are not especially complicated machines, but they are relatively sensitive precision devices & you do have to take the time to understand how they and their associated parts work if you're going to be able to deal with them. Luckily, there's a ton of info available on them - unlike going aftermarket, where there often is no info at all about a particular app.
I wish you good luck with your project whichever way you take it - truly. But you have to be willing to put in some time and effort to get results, like any other hobby - - or you have to be willing & able to pay somebody else to do the hard parts.
06-20-12, 10:45 AM
#52
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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i just dont understand what could be the issue.
Ive had a mechanic look at it, and my g/f who is also a mechanic has gone through it... ive spent every day the last 10 days on this carb alone. and im talking 5pm-midnight every night... i think that i should have gotten it right on accident by now.
somthing has to be wrong with the carb and all the stuff missing... i just want one that is simpler, less vaccum hassle, and one that works... i want to move on to somthing else.. and not waste my life away with this dumb *** carb that im gonna end up having to change anyway when i upgrade the car.
ive taken the carb off copletely a total of 12 times... and gone through it. not to mention the 4 or 5 times that i have taken it apart while still in the car... everything looks right... measures right... is clean... its just the mess of CRAP that goes along with it that is not right, nor do i have any way of making it right because everything is missing...
i just want the damn thing to go around the block 1 time on its own power. is that too much to ask? 10 days and the car should be running and driving no problem... i easly have 80+ hours on the carb alone... this shouldnt be happening even if it is japanese.
Ive had a mechanic look at it, and my g/f who is also a mechanic has gone through it... ive spent every day the last 10 days on this carb alone. and im talking 5pm-midnight every night... i think that i should have gotten it right on accident by now.
somthing has to be wrong with the carb and all the stuff missing... i just want one that is simpler, less vaccum hassle, and one that works... i want to move on to somthing else.. and not waste my life away with this dumb *** carb that im gonna end up having to change anyway when i upgrade the car.
ive taken the carb off copletely a total of 12 times... and gone through it. not to mention the 4 or 5 times that i have taken it apart while still in the car... everything looks right... measures right... is clean... its just the mess of CRAP that goes along with it that is not right, nor do i have any way of making it right because everything is missing...
i just want the damn thing to go around the block 1 time on its own power. is that too much to ask? 10 days and the car should be running and driving no problem... i easly have 80+ hours on the carb alone... this shouldnt be happening even if it is japanese.
06-20-12, 07:18 PM
#53
I can hear your frustration - - been there. Ultimately, it's completely up to you how you're gonna proceed, of course - - it's your car, your time, and your money.
Assuming the carb is as right as it can be, then you gotta look at the rest of the intake system.
Seeing as thngs have been previously modded, in your shoes I'd be looking at whether or not the right carb spacer is installed, & if it's right side up. I'd also be checking possible sources of major vac leaks, including the vac line to the brake booster (the hose connecting between the manifold and the firewall is notorious for rotting out on the bottom). I'm told on FB's the shutter valve line is another big source of problems (SA's don't have them.)
Working smaller, I'd check over any remaining ratsnest connections (vent system, control solenoids, Idle compensator, etc) & see if anything's sucking air.
What RPM range are you seeing when the car's running on choke?
Assuming the carb is as right as it can be, then you gotta look at the rest of the intake system.
Seeing as thngs have been previously modded, in your shoes I'd be looking at whether or not the right carb spacer is installed, & if it's right side up. I'd also be checking possible sources of major vac leaks, including the vac line to the brake booster (the hose connecting between the manifold and the firewall is notorious for rotting out on the bottom). I'm told on FB's the shutter valve line is another big source of problems (SA's don't have them.)
Working smaller, I'd check over any remaining ratsnest connections (vent system, control solenoids, Idle compensator, etc) & see if anything's sucking air.
What RPM range are you seeing when the car's running on choke?
06-21-12, 07:56 AM
#54
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it was idleing at about 2000 rpm steadily, then i started messing with the screws and it went up to 2300.. but its steady when its running.
i can hear what sounds like a vaccuum leak, but i cannot for the life of me pin point it. all of the hoses are new, nothing is cracked.. and nothing is unplugged, ive tightened down all of the bolts to be sure its not leaking from a gasket. i can hear it on the passenger side of the car, but cant feel it or pinpoint where its comming from.
i really do think i want to change directions on this car and quit playing around with it. im wanting to make a little rally car out of it, im wanting to stay with the 12a, but i think i have decided to cut my losses with the nikki and upgrade. ive noticed that the majority of pictures i see people are running some sort of webber or deloroto, any suggestions on my application? any ideas where i might can pick one up for under $700 with the intake?
these look much more managable, and easier to work with than that nightmare i have now.
im gonna gather some vaccuum knowledge today and make one last attempt tonight before i take a baseball bat to it and start over.
i can hear what sounds like a vaccuum leak, but i cannot for the life of me pin point it. all of the hoses are new, nothing is cracked.. and nothing is unplugged, ive tightened down all of the bolts to be sure its not leaking from a gasket. i can hear it on the passenger side of the car, but cant feel it or pinpoint where its comming from.
i really do think i want to change directions on this car and quit playing around with it. im wanting to make a little rally car out of it, im wanting to stay with the 12a, but i think i have decided to cut my losses with the nikki and upgrade. ive noticed that the majority of pictures i see people are running some sort of webber or deloroto, any suggestions on my application? any ideas where i might can pick one up for under $700 with the intake?
these look much more managable, and easier to work with than that nightmare i have now.
im gonna gather some vaccuum knowledge today and make one last attempt tonight before i take a baseball bat to it and start over.
06-21-12, 09:16 AM
#55
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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what if i follow these steps? and delete the rest of this crap i dont need?
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf
could this be my issue? since i have a carb that is ment for emmisions removal, but a car that still has the emmisions stuff installed?
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf
could this be my issue? since i have a carb that is ment for emmisions removal, but a car that still has the emmisions stuff installed?
06-21-12, 10:28 AM
#56
Possible.
Psg. side vac leak sound you can't see... did you check the manifold-to-brake-booster-line hose mentioned earlier? Heat from the exhaust tends to rot the bottom of them over time. They look fine from the top but underneath they have rotted away & leak.
Also, using a mechanic's stethoscope (or a cardboard tube like a paper towel core) can help you audibly pinpoint the source of a noise, by making your hearing more directional.
Psg. side vac leak sound you can't see... did you check the manifold-to-brake-booster-line hose mentioned earlier? Heat from the exhaust tends to rot the bottom of them over time. They look fine from the top but underneath they have rotted away & leak.
Also, using a mechanic's stethoscope (or a cardboard tube like a paper towel core) can help you audibly pinpoint the source of a noise, by making your hearing more directional.
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