getting the 3 top bolts off of the dash?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Washington- bellingham
getting the 3 top bolts off of the dash?
ok, im trying to take out the dash in my 84 gs but there are 3 bolts right on top of the dash and the windsheild is in the way of getting any tool on them, any one know how to do it without taking the windshild out? the bolts are the ones under the vents on top with the vin #
Arent those bolts a bitch?!?! For the life of me I could not get those bolts out of the dash, so I figured since I wasnt going to use my dash again (track car) and it was already screwed up that I would just break the already brittle plastic around the bolts and yank it out. IT DIDNT WORK! while trying to break the plastic by pulling up and out I some how put enoung pressure on the corner of my windshield to crack it. The crack started out small, but has now spread almost all the way accross the windshield. I guess the only benefit to having that happen is that now I can pull the windshield and easily get to the bolts, then replace the glass with something lighter.
Originally Posted by rotary-guy
ok, im trying to take out the dash in my 84 gs but there are 3 bolts right on top of the dash and the windsheild is in the way of getting any tool on them, any one know how to do it without taking the windshild out? the bolts are the ones under the vents on top with the vin #
Not really 2 hours but seemed that long.
No No No...I just took my dash out 2 weeks ago. First remove the phillips for the vent covers. Once those are removed take 2 extensions (or one long extension) and an elbow. Then use your 10mm for the 3 bolts. It should be fairly easy. 15 mins at the max...if you are a turtle. I feel bad for fire 2 hours that must have sucked! I had trouble with the screws that were set in reverse behind the speedo and glove box that took a little time and a lot of swearing!
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I am gonna have to remove my dash from the gsl-se soon as the heater core is leaking. I have bypassed it but will need to swap it soon.
The last dash I removed a month ago I was not to easy on as it was a parts car.
Anything I need to lookout for on a 85 model?
The last dash I removed a month ago I was not to easy on as it was a parts car.
Anything I need to lookout for on a 85 model?
Originally Posted by RotorMotorDriver
Drill holes in the windshield to get a better angle, then seal with caulking when done.
~T.J.
~T.J.
Interstate Chop Shop CEO
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,110
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From: Running an Interstate Chop Shop
Are those 3 bolts recessed more than the 3 on the '83 and older style dashes? I've not had any problems getting them out in under 10min max and that's if I'm going slow. Little 10mm ratcheting wrench from craftsmen does the trick everytime. Same for the 8mm's underneath the dash too!
Originally Posted by alien_rx7
Little 10mm ratcheting wrench from craftsmen does the trick everytime. Same for the 8mm's underneath the dash too!
Check! I will use this method when i decide to pull the dash and replace the heater core.
Ha blinker fluid...haven't heard that one in a while. I tried a small 10mm with tiny craftsman wrench...doesn't work. My advice is to invest the 3-5 dollars into an elbow. Trust me it is a great investment!
Interstate Chop Shop CEO
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 1
From: Running an Interstate Chop Shop
Originally Posted by z-beater
Ha blinker fluid...haven't heard that one in a while. I tried a small 10mm with tiny craftsman wrench...doesn't work. My advice is to invest the 3-5 dollars into an elbow. Trust me it is a great investment!
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
the reason your cofused is that TJ forgot to mention that you need to move the flux capacitors out of the way first....
Seriously though all capacitors generate flux (lines of magnetic force).
I just went through this dismantling my 1980 LS for my locost.
the two on the sides were easy enough but the one in the middle got the best of me.
doesn't sound like anyone else had them secured by nuts on the bottom. I used a pair of robogrips (step-son walked off with my metric spanners) on the top and a socket with an extension on the bottom. I couldn't get a socket on the middle cause of the air handler nor could I get the robogrips on the middle. since I don't have any plans for the dash in the locost I just got the dremmel with a metal cutoff wheel and cut the bracket.
the two on the sides were easy enough but the one in the middle got the best of me.
doesn't sound like anyone else had them secured by nuts on the bottom. I used a pair of robogrips (step-son walked off with my metric spanners) on the top and a socket with an extension on the bottom. I couldn't get a socket on the middle cause of the air handler nor could I get the robogrips on the middle. since I don't have any plans for the dash in the locost I just got the dremmel with a metal cutoff wheel and cut the bracket.
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