Gauges and Senders general discussion
Oil and water temp are the same gauges, one says water, one says oil. Good choice one the wideband. At 50*, with 20w50 oil, my op gauge hits 125 psi on start up, less on 10w30, and i have the RB 85 psi opr.
I got my 3 gauges and sending unit for around $200. RB sender, autometer gauges for oil pressure and temp, as well as water temp. I went with mechanical for op and water temp, and electrical for oil temp.
I haven't installed the water temp yet, as i'm looking for a good place to drill/tap. I'd like to keep the stock temp gauge working, so i can see what temp is 1/4 of the way up the gauge as well as a sort of fail-safe.
I haven't installed the water temp yet, as i'm looking for a good place to drill/tap. I'd like to keep the stock temp gauge working, so i can see what temp is 1/4 of the way up the gauge as well as a sort of fail-safe.
If you have removed the stock choke setup, or have the choke sensor broken, use the location on the back of water pump/ thermostat housing for the temp guage. It can be re-threaded to accept an adapter for the temp probe.
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
Why would the oil pressure spike so high?
Does it stay there, or does it come down?
Are you using the RB race oil pump too?
Jon
Does it stay there, or does it come down?
Are you using the RB race oil pump too?
Jon
At idle it is still within in nominal factory specs. Running the stock 12A oil pump.
That sensor is only to shut the choke off, once it has reached a certain temp. You can still use that location, but would have to manually push in the choke cable. Fair trade, in my opinion....
I find that it will not even hold the choke out when the wires are broken on the sender. I got so tired of that, I installed a new one. There is another spot on the back of the water pump housing that can drilled and tapped for and aftermarket gauge, you have to remove the housing to do it though.
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