im currently installing a yaw carburetor, carter pump, and holley fpr. during the swap, im planning on replacing all fuel hoses. how many feet of send and return will i need, approximately, and is it completely irrational to run 3/8" for the return, as well? im also thinking of going with a higer end fuel filter with a replaceable element, and running a smaller clear filter between the regulator and carb. is this overkill? thanks in advance.
craig

 

Hey, first off all I wouldn't run the filter after the regulator because it may screw up the fuel pressure you are trying to achieve, which you want to be as accurate as possible. Sounds like you are running a similar fuel system to what I was running on my 85 GSL. Honestly I don't think you really should need to replace all the metal lines, unless they are rusted, bent etc etc. I also run 2 fuel filters, its not a bad idea, it just makes sure all the crap is out of the system because you never know... Like I said though, changing all the fuel lines may be overkill if its not nessassery, if it doesn't need to be done why do it. And if you do it, just make sure that everything is tucked in where rocks and crap won't damage the lines, and ensure that you have no leaks...

 

im speaking of the rubber lines only. hah. sorry about that. and thanks for the advice on the filters.

 

I replaced my hard lines with 3/8" aluminum for future upgrades, that and I had some lines that had started to rust through. My local speed shop sells line in 25' rolls of varying sizes, I have less than 5' left over. 3/8" on the return line will be fine, it will restrict at the tank, not a problem

Take your old lines out and use them for patterns to pre-bend the new line, adding extra to each end until it is time for install. If you use the aluminum line, buy a flaring tool from Sears, $20, so you can put a bubble at the end of the lines. This will help prevent leaks when clamping the rubber hose on. Practice on a scrap piece before you do the end of a finished line. The aluminum flares quite easily. Spend the extra money and buy the band style clamps, not the worm gear ones, this will save the rubber hose and is required for fi hose.

Run your engine filter just before the fpr. The stock style, sized for your new line will work fine pre-pump. Some of the aftermarket ones, especially the barrel style will plug quicker and dependeing on mounting location, can allow any debris it captures to drain back into the tank.

 

You posted this while I was typing my disertation. lol If you are only replacing the stock rubber hose, stay with the stock sizes.

 

thanks trochoid. i was hoping you would reply. so how much rubber hose, send and return? last question, i promise.

 

I honestly don't remember how much of each size is needed. I think 3' will get you there on the larger line, 2' on the smaller. Non-fi fuel line is cheap. Are you dropping the tank and replacing all those lines too? There is more line involved in the tank, check vavle and pump than there is in the engine bay.

 

Those can be replaced without dropping the tank.

 

i would like to replace all rubber hoses. err on the side of caution, thats what i say. plus low pressure hose is cheap. thanks for the help guys.