Fuel related questions enclosed. Fuel pump, fuel line,Weber Carb topics. Pics 56k
08-03-07, 06:09 PM
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Fuel related questions enclosed. Fuel pump, fuel line,Weber Carb topics. Pics 56k
I searched with no results.
I constantly hear you guys telling people, and saying how important it is to change the fuel filter on the 7. I haven't searched, but I've spent ALOT of time under neath my 7, and under the hood, and havn't seen the fuel filter. I'd like to know where it is located, and will any generic one work?
Also while I was under my car about a month ago, I noticed something bolted to the under carriage with two fuel lines running in/out of it, but they were cut. Some one by passed it, what ever it it. It's white plastic, and It says FCV on it, and when you shake it a ball or something inside it rattles. Im assuming its some sort of regulator or something for the fuel system. Any ideas as to what it is, and should I re hook it up?
I constantly hear you guys telling people, and saying how important it is to change the fuel filter on the 7. I haven't searched, but I've spent ALOT of time under neath my 7, and under the hood, and havn't seen the fuel filter. I'd like to know where it is located, and will any generic one work?
Also while I was under my car about a month ago, I noticed something bolted to the under carriage with two fuel lines running in/out of it, but they were cut. Some one by passed it, what ever it it. It's white plastic, and It says FCV on it, and when you shake it a ball or something inside it rattles. Im assuming its some sort of regulator or something for the fuel system. Any ideas as to what it is, and should I re hook it up?
Last edited by '84-12A-GSL; 08-03-07 at 06:21 PM.
08-03-07, 06:22 PM
#3
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Fuel filter is located just ahead of the rear axle.
The item you described sounds like the "Check and Cut" valve. It's designed to shut off the fuel flow, if you turn the car over.
The item you described sounds like the "Check and Cut" valve. It's designed to shut off the fuel flow, if you turn the car over.
08-03-07, 06:25 PM
#4
The fuel filter is on the driver's side, just aft of the driver's door.
Fuel line goes from the tank to the filter, which should be held in place by two little metal clips, then to the fuel pump, which should be between a metal plate and the floor of the car, then out to the front of the car
Fuel filter is a little white or clear plastic thing with the in and out lines on the top.
If it's bypassed, it's either the fuel cut/check valve (that stops fuel from flowing if your car flips over) or some other useless thing I bypassed when I installed my Mallory. Either way don't worry about it if the car is running well.
Jon
Fuel line goes from the tank to the filter, which should be held in place by two little metal clips, then to the fuel pump, which should be between a metal plate and the floor of the car, then out to the front of the car
Fuel filter is a little white or clear plastic thing with the in and out lines on the top.
If it's bypassed, it's either the fuel cut/check valve (that stops fuel from flowing if your car flips over) or some other useless thing I bypassed when I installed my Mallory. Either way don't worry about it if the car is running well.
Jon
08-03-07, 09:45 PM
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Yes it will... and no it will not.
If you have a good on on it pinch it shut. Fingers for vice-grips will do the trick.. just not to tight with the vice-grips, you could damage your fuel line. pull the filter and replace.
If you are good enough you will not need any of that... and will only loose a minor amount of fuel, a few drops. Pull the clips... then in a swoooooft motion pull the filter from the hose going to the tank and place finger over hole. with other hand grab hose with pinky finger and ring finger and use thumb and pointer finger to push the old gas filter off. Then with one hand put the now filter on the hose that you are not holding gas in and then use that swooooft motion again to put the filter back on the line that you were hold gas in.. Next replace clamps.
If you have a good on on it pinch it shut. Fingers for vice-grips will do the trick.. just not to tight with the vice-grips, you could damage your fuel line. pull the filter and replace.
If you are good enough you will not need any of that... and will only loose a minor amount of fuel, a few drops. Pull the clips... then in a swoooooft motion pull the filter from the hose going to the tank and place finger over hole. with other hand grab hose with pinky finger and ring finger and use thumb and pointer finger to push the old gas filter off. Then with one hand put the now filter on the hose that you are not holding gas in and then use that swooooft motion again to put the filter back on the line that you were hold gas in.. Next replace clamps.
08-03-07, 09:58 PM
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Damn...you're good haha.
Now that I'm thinking, I've seen the filter, but It doesn't look like the filters im used to.
I was looking for something like this.
But the one that is on the car is like this
Now that I'm thinking, I've seen the filter, but It doesn't look like the filters im used to.
I was looking for something like this.
But the one that is on the car is like this
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08-04-07, 12:00 AM
#8
The filter in the 1st picture is a VW fuel filter and is also used in alot of small engine applications.
The 2nd one is a industrial type of filter that is used in alot of tractor applications where the bowl unscrews and you replace the element.
The original one is similar to the 1st picture, just larger in diameter. It is generally attached to the outside of the fuel pump mounting enclosure and held in place by an attached clip that is attached to the side of the fuel pump enclosure.
The 2nd one is a industrial type of filter that is used in alot of tractor applications where the bowl unscrews and you replace the element.
The original one is similar to the 1st picture, just larger in diameter. It is generally attached to the outside of the fuel pump mounting enclosure and held in place by an attached clip that is attached to the side of the fuel pump enclosure.
08-08-07, 02:55 PM
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Blue or Red (Holley) or Other?
Might be picking up a modified 12a with a Weber 40IDF carb, and RB header soon.
Does the Weber have vacuum nipples on it, so I can still run my vacuum advanced, and other things that need vacuum?
Does it have ports to hook up the oil metering lines?
Does it have a choke? I assume not.
Does the Weber have vacuum nipples on it, so I can still run my vacuum advanced, and other things that need vacuum?
Does it have ports to hook up the oil metering lines?
Does it have a choke? I assume not.
08-08-07, 06:47 PM
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...umm...iunno. The IDF is on the engine that the people who I buy my parts from is selling.
It has a Weber 40IDF and manifold on it, and an RB header.
There's no other way I can get an after market carb or header, where I live, unless i had a credit card, than I'd have to buy new, and that would cost big time.
Or i can get a 12a and tranny with a 40IDF carb and header for $500 locally. What would you do?
Whats wrong with the IDF series?
And can someone answer the questions?
It has a Weber 40IDF and manifold on it, and an RB header.
There's no other way I can get an after market carb or header, where I live, unless i had a credit card, than I'd have to buy new, and that would cost big time.
Or i can get a 12a and tranny with a 40IDF carb and header for $500 locally. What would you do?
Whats wrong with the IDF series?
And can someone answer the questions?
08-08-07, 06:59 PM
#13
The IDF is basically a big Porsche/VW carb. A 40 is very small and will hurt performance if you run a single.
Usually you would use the IDF if you want to go turbo...old-school Cartech stuff (which actually runs really well...), otherwise, wait a bit....IDA for the N/A.
Usually you would use the IDF if you want to go turbo...old-school Cartech stuff (which actually runs really well...), otherwise, wait a bit....IDA for the N/A.
08-08-07, 07:03 PM
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I'm not positive if it's a 40IDF, thats what the people told me...and they're not the most mechanically incline. But I'm sure it MUST be better than the stock Nikki...wouldn't it be?
Why would it be better performance on turbo cars, but worse on N/A?
And isn't any Weber downdraft 2 barrel...a down draft 2 barrel. I cant see what the big diff would be.
Why would it be better performance on turbo cars, but worse on N/A?
And isn't any Weber downdraft 2 barrel...a down draft 2 barrel. I cant see what the big diff would be.
08-10-07, 11:32 AM
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For a non-turbo application the 44 IDF works quite well. The 40 IDF as has been stated works really well with a turbo. Major differences between IDA and IDF is that he IDF has provision for a choke and the IDA does not. If your car does have a 40 IDF, it should have 2 vacuum hose barbs in the base on the outboard side. For the OMP feed, you can get two more of the same size hose barbs as used for the vacuum lines, and drill and tap the inboard side of each carb throat about halfway down the barrel to install the hose barbs. Attach the OMP lines to the new fittings and you're good to go. This is the method used by CarTech on their original turbo set ups.
08-10-07, 04:13 PM
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With the header and weber carb, you will feel an improvement in the lower RPM range for sure. You might lose a little of the max potential in the upper range, though.
The 40 is a tad small for N/A use, but it will only cause a loss in the upper RPM range. It may well outperform the stock nikki up there, though. Especially combined with a header.
The 40 is a tad small for N/A use, but it will only cause a loss in the upper RPM range. It may well outperform the stock nikki up there, though. Especially combined with a header.
08-13-07, 05:35 PM
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Pressure is 2.5-3.5 PSI. Flow rate is ~1L per minute. A good stock pump may be able to supply the 40, but most will recommend upgrading to a better pump.
08-13-07, 07:28 PM
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From what I've heard, the stock pump is barely adequate enough to run a stock setup. Here's a good post to read:
https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=529605
https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=529605
08-13-07, 08:04 PM
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Few qustions.
If I buy a Holley blue with the FPR, will the aftermarket pump need any extra connections, or just hook up the power wire that used to go the the stock one, and the ground? I don't need any relays or fuses or any of that jazz.
Can I adjust the fuel pressure from the FPR?
Also if I do get the Weber, will I need to run any extra fuel lines, or do I just hook up the lines that are already there?
Im pretty anxious and curious about this whole deal, cause Im about to drop some $$$ on parts, and don't wanna dive into something beyond my capabilities.
Also whats the price of the Holley Blue with the FPR?
If I buy a Holley blue with the FPR, will the aftermarket pump need any extra connections, or just hook up the power wire that used to go the the stock one, and the ground? I don't need any relays or fuses or any of that jazz.
Can I adjust the fuel pressure from the FPR?
Also if I do get the Weber, will I need to run any extra fuel lines, or do I just hook up the lines that are already there?
Im pretty anxious and curious about this whole deal, cause Im about to drop some $$$ on parts, and don't wanna dive into something beyond my capabilities.
Also whats the price of the Holley Blue with the FPR?
