DiscoQuinn

if I'm under the car, what noise should I hear when the key is turned to the on position? I get a click near the engine bay, but nothing near the back of the car.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Depends on what year of 7. 83 and earlier models, the fuel pump runs as long as the key is in the on position. S3 models go through a relay that energizes the pump in the start and run modes only. Not sure what the click in the engine bay is, sounds like a relay but the S3 relay is under the dash.

Trace down the click, if it's a relay, swap it out for a working one.

DiscoQuinn

I've got an 85 GSL.

Pulled the cover plate off the fuel pump today. When the key is moved to the "on" position the pump wiggles/jerks once, when you try to start the car is wiggles a bunch. I'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to work.

DiscoQuinn

Also, if I pull the pump from the car, can I test it by connecting it to the batter for a few seconds? does it need to be submerged/have a liquid feed, or will it be fine?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I followed this diagram and now the fuel pump runs whenever the key is in ON or Start on my bro's '84-'85 model.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Running the pump for a few seconds to test will not damage it. Following Jeff's diagram would be much simpler than dropping the pump and taking the chance on stripping/snapping off rusted bolts.

DiscoQuinn

I've got the plate off already, who ever owned the car before did all the muscling to get those bolts out.

Thanks for the diagram, I may end up wiring it that way.

Thanks for the help guys! I'll update with the results.

widz

iTrader: (1)

i recently just had a fuel pump problem...it would suck gas but would not pump...when i tested it with a battery, you can hear it "whirring" so i thought it was working, but i was wrong...if you can't hear the noticeable "whirring" sound of the fuel pump, it probably isn't working...i finally decided to replace my fuel pump and my car works completely fine now.....another huge factor in my fuel pump problem was that the tiny "O" ring on top of the fuel pump, underneath the cap and screw was totally busted...the broken ring allowed gas to leak and stink the whole place up

DiscoQuinn

Pump seems to be working decently, I pulled the line off the front of the pump that runs to the carb. It filled a portion of a container I have fairly quickly, and the stream looked solid. Replaced the fuel filter while I was down there and tested again, same results.

Car still won't fire. Checked compression, spark, and fuel pump/filter, all I can think is that the Carburetor isn't functioning correctly?

I read something about a 'sight glass' on the carb. I've never really had a lot of time working on motors, and this is my first time working on a carb, so I'm unsure where to look on the carb for this 'sight glass' and what it should or shouldn't look like.

DiscoQuinn

Forgot to add, that I sprayed some quick start in the carb, and even then it won't start up. I'm wonderinf if the carb is even allowing air in....

widz

iTrader: (1)

silly question...but did u try gassing it while u tried to start it?....there could be a combination of things wrong....does your car crank normally but just wont turn over?

DiscoQuinn

doesn't even sputter and try to run, the engine just turns over with out ever firing up. It only sputters and trys to run the slightest bit when I give it a good spray of quick start.

DiscoQuinn

My carburetor butterfly's in the main (large) barrels, don't open. only the smaller buterfly's in the smaller barrels below the choke flap seem to open. what the fudge.

vipergts_3

iTrader: (9)

in case you are flooding it just hold the pedal to the floor while cranking it. seems a bit retarted but it seems to work on all my rx7's and every other car with a carb i have owned.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

The secondaries are vacuum operated and do not open when you depress the pedal.

You need to pull the plugs and see if they are wet. If so then you need to perform the de-flooding procedure that can be found by searching.

The big question that needs to be answered is- Was the car running and then stopped running, or did you drive the vehicle home and shut it off then went to start it later, and it would not start? Or did you just buy the car and it was not running?

Without giving us the full details it is very difficult to determine the next course of action.

DiscoQuinn

Sorry, the plugs have been wet the last few times I pulled them when checking compression and spark.

The motor was running. I drove the car 2 hours down to the race track, hopped on the track, on my third lap the motor sputtered and eventually died right in the middle of a slide. (drifting competition)

Got it running again once almost right after, but it just puttered and died again, and it's never started since. Most of the time it just cranks but doesn't even bubble or stumble.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

I suggest that you perform the de-flooding procedure and install a fresh set of plugs.

DiscoQuinn

I must be blind, because I can't find any how-to for 12a de-flooding/unflooding on here, just a bunch of threads mentioning that it should be done. :S

hanman

Pull the plugs, put them in a vise, spray them with carb cleaner, burn them off with a propane torch. Then clean them with a wire brush. Or just buy new plugs.

In the meantime, turn the engine over a few times, but DON'T touch the gas. Pull the spark plugs away from the engine while you do this.

Then replace the plugs and pour a little oil down the primary barrels of the carb, while holding the throttle plates open. Don't drown the engine in oil, just a little.

Then see if you can start it without giving it any gas.

DiscoQuinn

is this procedure okay?
http://rx7.com/techarticles_unflood12A.html

DiscoQuinn

made a video, got it running today, with the seafoam and some quick start, but, it won't continue to run, just kinda dies.

It wouldn't even start till I moved all the plug wires around to the opposite locations:

Front Rotor Upper = T2
Front Rotor Lower = L2
Rear Rotor Upper = T1
Rear Rotor Lower = L1

Front Igniter = Leading
Rear Igniter = Trailing

This order seems backward to me, but it's the only order the car would start smoothly.

The motor runs a bit, then will die out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMiMvZdJY3w

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Based on your plug wiring, it sounds like your coils or pickups have gotten their wiring switched around, or like your timing is extremely off.

Which makes no sense if it was running before.

Dead leading ignitor, possibly?

DiscoQuinn

It's gotta be a fuel issue, I was down playing with it again just now, and it starts and runs awesome when I put quick start in, but once it's all burned off it dies. So I'm going to have to track down a fuel pressure checker or something.

-Either my fuel pump is poop, but it seemed to pump decently when I pulled it and tested it into a bucket

-My fuel lines are poop, possible they have been replaced with multi-piece lines at some point (threaded connectors along it)

-My carb is poop, but I don't understand why it would just die in the middle of a run.

Most likely my fuel pump? (I checked it when I changed the filter, I pulled the hose to the carb, and let it pump into a little bucket and it seemed to pump a good stream, but I wasen't able to tell pressure or volume specifically)

Kentetsu

Is there any fuel in the float bowls? Or are they dry? That will help narrow this issue down a bit...

DiscoQuinn

Not sure what the bowls are? Again, inexperienced with carburetors and engine work in general.