KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

A couple of days ago my car would not start. I nailed it down to the fuel pump. Removed inlet fuel hose to carb and had no fuel when key on. Removed power connector to fuel pump and had 12 volts but no hum from pump. Just for the heck of it I replaced with a somewhat iffy pump and it hummed. The bad part is that this pump is about one year old and only has about 30 minutes of run time.

I think I killed it because I jumped the fuel cut relay so I'm also looking for one of those.

I've been searching the internet all night and can't find a factory replacement pump and relay. Does any one have any suggestions on where to get a factory style pump or is there an alternative that works?

I've tried RockAuto, Advanced Auto, AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, Amazon. Advanced Auto has one listed but when I went to check out it said they where out of stock.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the factory pump is available, 8871-13-400B, $118 list price, street price is more like $90

paul yaw used to recommend the carter pump and holley regulator, which works ok, but doesn't fit the car very well.

i'd use the mallory regulator, as it looks like it will mount better, and walbro makes an external low pressure fuel pump, that looks like it would mount like the stock pump.

wankel=awesome

Weber redline hi perf pump fits in the same location as stock, its quiet as a mouse, and gives more than enough fuel for a stock nikki. Maybe not enough for a nikki with airflow mods though, I run 2 on my hogged out nikki just because I didnt like the numbers of 1 pump when comparing to yaw's requirements...

Genuine Weber Redline Inline Fuel Pump Low Pressure | eBay

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Thanks - cheaper then after market replacement.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Got the parts ordered. Total came to $148 after taxes for the fuel pump and fuel cut relay. A little more then internet prices but I'll get the parts on Friday. I couldn't find an online vendor that carried them that I felt I could trust with my credit card.

8871-13-400B fuel pump
FA55-67-740 - fuel cut relay

garagemahal76

myself and another rotorhead are using the mr gasket pump, (model # 42S) runs like $46 in stock at advance auto, and does like 3.5 psi. my pump died or so I thought, turned out to be wicked corrosion @ the male terminal at the plug, snapped the piece in half. might go back to stock pump after a re-wire but this new one is doing fine. stock wiring as well, not relayed. my friend's rx7 is using a nicer weber carb, not a stock stripped down Nikki like me.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

I just picked up a 12A car, and it had a Carter LP in-line pump: P60504. It's cheap, quiet, and seems to have good online reviews. It's rated at 4psi and 30gph.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately those Carter pumps are a case of "you get what you paid for." I killed 3 of them before I gave up on them and put in a Holley Red. It was more work, more money, and a hell of a lot more noise, but it never left me stranded.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Atkins and mazdatrix sell oem new.

garagemahal76

take a stock one apart and replace the brushes . oddly enough they are same size as 540 canister RC car motors...

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

How to you take them apart? The outside casing is a sealed unit that is welded.

Viich

iTrader: (1)

I missed it on this one, but I used a simple Facet electric fuel pump at carb pressures - I walked into NAPA and asked for a carbed fuel pump. I think I paid $25. One of them broke a seal somewhere and started leaking a couple years later, but I mounted the second one better and it was fine.

Buddy at the desk said one of the guys winning races at the local circle track was running the same pump, my car (sans me at the wheel) won an autocross outright (I did have the best tires, but not by that much)

garagemahal76

[QUOTE=KansasCityREPU;11793242]How to you take them apart? The outside casing is a sealed unit that is welded.[/QUOTE

mine had brass screws. came apart easily. going to put original brushes back in since rc brushes are typically just 7.2-8.4 v spec. there might be a better replacement out there, I gotta check. could also possibly replace the armature itself with different one or rewind it for more speed. there's a whole bees nest of possibilities waiting for a baseball bat and an instigator here.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

That doesn't look like any stock first gen fuel pump I've ever seen. Where's is the case?

garagemahal76

the body if it was not in the photos, just the electrical end and guts. I will take pics this evening. it was in stock location with stock clips/hoses and on the plate mount hiding it from road grime & weather. it's demise was not the pump but the wiring corroding at the connector inside the car.

garagemahal76

complete assembly. has a mitsubishi stamp on the endcap. "UC-MT3A " part number?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

All the factory pumps I've seen are completely sealed. I've never seen one like this.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

I spent some time considering the requirements I need:

- OEM-level reliability
- Horizontal mounting to fit in OEM location
- At least 60 LPH (this is very easy to achieve)
- Quiet operation

I came up with two pumps:

1. Bosch 69607, which is a Mercedes / BMW EFI pump, rated at 95 LPH (12V, 4 bar)

2. Walbro GSL395, which is a TBI pump, rated at 35 GPH (12V, 10psi)

They both cost about $110, and they should both be very reliable, since they're OEM parts. I'm leaning towards the Bosch, since I'm familiar with them and have found their data to be accurate and very conservative.

I plan to run a return system, using a Mallory 4309 FPR, which is good for 3 to 12 PSI. I read a few accounts of people who had converted their EFI cars to carburetors using this same basic method.

Also, either pump will probably consume less than 3 amps at the low pressure I'll need to supply my carbs.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

Stay away from EFI pumps if you are still carbed, otherwise you'll have to run a massive return line to keep the pressure down.