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froze actuator rod

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Old 04-07-12, 05:32 PM
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SC froze actuator rod

ok i did some researching and couldnt find exactly what i was looking for. the last time i was looking at my GSL-SE the actuator rods wont move at all. could i try spraying some pb-blaster down the rod so it would run down in there to free it up? or will that mess it up? i dont really want to take the manifold off mostly cause i dont want to screw some thing else up. thanks for any and all help.
Old 04-08-12, 04:06 PM
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Is it stuck or just not operating?

Originally Posted by project7s
ok i did some researching and couldnt find exactly what i was looking for. the last time i was looking at my GSL-SE the actuator rods wont move at all. could i try spraying some pb-blaster down the rod so it would run down in there to free it up? or will that mess it up? i dont really want to take the manifold off mostly cause i dont want to screw some thing else up. thanks for any and all help.
Is it stuck or just not operating?

Can you move either one manually? If so, then I would look at the back-pressure tube from the third cat (the big one) to the actuators and make sure it's not kinked or not even hooked up. I would also double check to ensure that the two pre-cats haven't committed suicide sending pieces of the honeycomb to the next cat and onwards.

If it moves, check the other one. If it moves, you've got a leak somewhere. One thing to do is to compress the actuator all the way and cover the pressure port. If it holds, then at least your actuators are OK. So trace it and make sure someone didn't block off the tube on the cat end. I saw someone do this because his car was backfiring (it was still back-firing, duh...). He wouldn't listen so it's probably in the same shape unless the engine was changed or it changed owners to someone who knows how to wrench on a rotary.

If neither move by hand, you could try removing one actuator and seeing if you can move the lever it's hooked up to. If it's locked, you might as well not bother with the other side because you'll probably be removing the intake to get at the rotating sleeves. Be careful and make sure you don't drop anything in the sleeve port unless you like rebuilding engines.


People are divided on whether the Pineapple racing inserts or the Atkins ones for the 5th & 6th ports do anything but they're cheap ($50 to $75)so you might want to try them if you have to remove the lower intake. If you do buy them, I'm sure there's a lot of people who would like to know how they work.

Atkins version:


Pineapple racing inserts:


I just went through this, my actuators were moving easily enough by hand but I couldn't test to see if they were opening when they were supposed to or at all.

I just put in an MSD and was messing around with the throttle and it turns out, if you hold it at around 3K RPMs and then floor it (don't blow the engine up) they moved in tandem; yeah! Using the 2nd gen coil and an MSD, eliminating the leading coils going through the dist and putting the trailing wires into the leading ports on the dist made a great difference, it's starting easily now in our torrential Ca. weather plus it runs better and pulls to redline much better. Now I get to hear the buzzer one 1st through 3rd.

To learn about the ignition mods:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=243350
Old 04-08-12, 11:38 PM
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yeah they were locked, if i remove the actuator is there a gasket behide it that i will need to replace? also if i use some pliers to try add free it up will that hurt any thing internally like carbon falling around in the motor? im really not wanting to remove the intake cause i dont feel confident enough with it yet. thanks for the help.
Old 04-08-12, 11:49 PM
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finally able to work on the 7?
Old 04-09-12, 12:02 AM
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no not yet,im taking notes, i have a spiral note book that im writing in as for what i need to do when i can get out and work on it again. its better than just laying here doing nothing atleast this why im learning. and im not going to be able for atleast another week and ahalf doctors orders.
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