Front wheel bearing torque?
10-13-08, 12:58 PM
#1
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Front wheel bearing torque?
Hey guys,
After inspecting my front end in search for a rattle, I was astonished to find 3 of 4 lug nuts were completely stripped out on the front left. I recently got this car, and did a once over before, but missed this as I did not take the wheels off. I'm actually a little pissed at the PO for not mentioning something like this. Anyway...
Is it hard to get the bearing out of the brake disc? I have one on order and have not pulled the one on the car off yet. Do they just slide out? How much torque is required on the 23mm nut when putting it all back together?
I've checked the wankel.net manual but section 12-4 is missing.
This is a 1985 GS btw.
After inspecting my front end in search for a rattle, I was astonished to find 3 of 4 lug nuts were completely stripped out on the front left. I recently got this car, and did a once over before, but missed this as I did not take the wheels off. I'm actually a little pissed at the PO for not mentioning something like this. Anyway...
Is it hard to get the bearing out of the brake disc? I have one on order and have not pulled the one on the car off yet. Do they just slide out? How much torque is required on the 23mm nut when putting it all back together?
I've checked the wankel.net manual but section 12-4 is missing.
This is a 1985 GS btw.
Last edited by dgmorr; 10-13-08 at 01:00 PM.
10-13-08, 01:11 PM
#2
Check here for the manual (FSM):
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
The nut is not tight at all. You don't want it to be. There is a procedure in the FSM on how to do it. Basically you torque to about 25 ft-lbs, rotate the disc a few times, and then backoff on the nut a bit.
The bearings just slide out. There are actually 2 per side (inner and outer) as well as the grease seal.
If you are replacing the disc/hub, you will need to drive the bearing races (comes with the new bearings) into the hub. Some people use a socket or similar to fit the ring of the race and then drive it in. I didn't have much luck with something on hand that fit just right. I picked up a cheap race/seal driver from Harbor Freight ($40). Made the job so easy.
Remember to pack your bearings good. I also recommend a good synthetic wheel bearing grease for the job.
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
The nut is not tight at all. You don't want it to be. There is a procedure in the FSM on how to do it. Basically you torque to about 25 ft-lbs, rotate the disc a few times, and then backoff on the nut a bit.
The bearings just slide out. There are actually 2 per side (inner and outer) as well as the grease seal.
If you are replacing the disc/hub, you will need to drive the bearing races (comes with the new bearings) into the hub. Some people use a socket or similar to fit the ring of the race and then drive it in. I didn't have much luck with something on hand that fit just right. I picked up a cheap race/seal driver from Harbor Freight ($40). Made the job so easy.
Remember to pack your bearings good. I also recommend a good synthetic wheel bearing grease for the job.
10-13-08, 01:36 PM
#3
I never noticed there were pages missing. I scanned them for you and added them to the pdf:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...2526_tires.pdf
As for the bearings, you will need a hammer and a drift to remove the old races, and to put in new bearings, heat the rotors over a woodstove or something and put the bearing races in the freezer. Then use a socket or something the same size of the races to hammer them in.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...2526_tires.pdf
As for the bearings, you will need a hammer and a drift to remove the old races, and to put in new bearings, heat the rotors over a woodstove or something and put the bearing races in the freezer. Then use a socket or something the same size of the races to hammer them in.
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