Front cover oil line fitting: OK to torch it?
10-13-17, 02:39 PM
#1
Front cover oil line fitting: OK to torch it?
Car is GSL-SE. I am replacing all oil cooler lines (project is more extensive but not relevant to this post)
The problem: I can't get the fitting going into the front cover to budge. I haven't been too heavy handed (meaning I haven't used the persuader) but given they are both aluminum I just don't want to crack the front cover. It just isn't on my agenda.
The question: Any issue with popping a torch on that bad boy? I can't think of one but like I said, I just get a little nervous. Would a MAP torch even do anything for me here?
Additional notes: Do not care about current lines getting ruined. Replacing everything including AN fittings all around.
The problem: I can't get the fitting going into the front cover to budge. I haven't been too heavy handed (meaning I haven't used the persuader) but given they are both aluminum I just don't want to crack the front cover. It just isn't on my agenda.
The question: Any issue with popping a torch on that bad boy? I can't think of one but like I said, I just get a little nervous. Would a MAP torch even do anything for me here?
Additional notes: Do not care about current lines getting ruined. Replacing everything including AN fittings all around.
10-13-17, 02:59 PM
#2
Are you talking about the fitting that has a crush washer and uses a 21mm wrench? Or the larger (27mm I believe) fitting that attaches to the first fitting I mentioned? I've had the large line fitting be a real pain to remove, but the smaller one that actually goes into the front cover should not be that tight at all - since it uses a crush washer. Do you have a pic? I would be hesitant to put that much heat into that area...
10-13-17, 03:08 PM
#3
Forgive my ghetto fabulous MS paint work here, but I found a pic (of an FC, but the fittings are the same). "1" in the pic should not be very tight at all, and will come out without much hassle - assuming the line "2" has already been removed, and also assuming it's not cross threaded or something.
The line "2" is a compression style fitting, and can be very tight. If you aren't saving the lines, you could cut them and just unscrew the whole thing out of the front cover, and then attempt to remove fitting "1" on the bench using heat etc. I've had those get stuck pretty good before. Hope that helps!
The line "2" is a compression style fitting, and can be very tight. If you aren't saving the lines, you could cut them and just unscrew the whole thing out of the front cover, and then attempt to remove fitting "1" on the bench using heat etc. I've had those get stuck pretty good before. Hope that helps!
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wallyrx7 (10-13-17)
10-13-17, 03:36 PM
#4
Forgive my ghetto fabulous MS paint work here, but I found a pic (of an FC, but the fittings are the same). "1" in the pic should not be very tight at all, and will come out without much hassle - assuming the line "2" has already been removed, and also assuming it's not cross threaded or something.
The line "2" is a compression style fitting, and can be very tight. If you aren't saving the lines, you could cut them and just unscrew the whole thing out of the front cover, and then attempt to remove fitting "1" on the bench using heat etc. I've had those get stuck pretty good before. Hope that helps!
The line "2" is a compression style fitting, and can be very tight. If you aren't saving the lines, you could cut them and just unscrew the whole thing out of the front cover, and then attempt to remove fitting "1" on the bench using heat etc. I've had those get stuck pretty good before. Hope that helps!
10-13-17, 04:03 PM
#5
I found mine quite hard to remove also. I think that they also get put on from the factory with some sort of sealant on the threads.
I cut my stock lines to make things easier, and also used a but of PB blaster. I think a bit of heat will help, especially to get the PB to soak in.
I removed the fitting directly from the front cover without messing with the other fitting.. just left it together.
Also, for when you install new fittings with crush washers on front cover and also oil cooler, be very very careful not to tighten too much.
This is mentioned in every thread, and I still managed to over tighten an oil cooler fitting and put a hairline crack in the oil cooler boss. Not fun to discover this... needed a good shop to tig weld a new AN adapter on to the oil cooler.
I found the crush washers and aluminum oil cooler bosses required a very nice surface to seal and only a slight snug up.
I cut my stock lines to make things easier, and also used a but of PB blaster. I think a bit of heat will help, especially to get the PB to soak in.
I removed the fitting directly from the front cover without messing with the other fitting.. just left it together.
Also, for when you install new fittings with crush washers on front cover and also oil cooler, be very very careful not to tighten too much.
This is mentioned in every thread, and I still managed to over tighten an oil cooler fitting and put a hairline crack in the oil cooler boss. Not fun to discover this... needed a good shop to tig weld a new AN adapter on to the oil cooler.
I found the crush washers and aluminum oil cooler bosses required a very nice surface to seal and only a slight snug up.
10-16-17, 11:43 AM
#6
Yeah the connection between 1 and 2 in the pic can be very! tight. If you are ok with cutting the line that might be the way to go, better than than risking damage to the front cover.
I'll second what Tommy said, the fitting and crush washer need to be gently tightened, don't want to risk cracking it!
I'll second what Tommy said, the fitting and crush washer need to be gently tightened, don't want to risk cracking it!
10-16-17, 12:19 PM
#7
A bit of heat may help, but I would be hesitant and vigilant when doing so to make sure you don't heat up the aluminum front cover too much. Starting an oil fire would be the least of my worries, unless you get the thing cherry red with heat.