Just wondering how many free/cheap mods there are for a GSL-SE. I havent seen this post before so if anyone knows any post up!

thanks

 

fart in the air intake. Adds a few brief smelly ponies

 

already tried that....made it smoke...bah

 

i dont know about free, but you can make sure your O2 sensor is fresh along with spark plugs, oil, and air, fuel, oil filters too. I have never tried to tune an SE so i dont know how that would work for you. you could try steaming it then get flammed for doing it.

 

yeah, i got new plugs, new drop in, fresh oil change...runs great...
I plan on spending money on it in the future but I was just hoping there was one of those mods where IE: "If you hook hose A into slot B and fill it with frog semen youll get 90000000000000000000000HP"

 

weight reduction, thats about it

 

get an intake adapter and cone filter, good for roughly 5 hp, maybey more...

weld up a straight pipe where the cat was, TB mod, remove belt driven accessories, re adjust the TPS per FSM, remove airpump, remove AVC, remove the ENTIRE ac system, the best bang for the buck is really a header, you will notice an insane difference in the upper RPM's, and wire your 5-6 ports open, if you really wanna get crazy like im gonna you can turbo it for under 500 bucks...

 

you can buy a cheap intake adaptor off ebay and make some CAI or gut your cat wire some ports open, dont know if tha thelps on 1st gens tho

 

yes, it does help, the gsl-se is virutally the same as an fc.. as far as mods go...

 

sorry for the hijack

how are you going turbo for under $500?

 

Reemoov the airpump (assuming the 13b has one like the 12a does) or at least the belt that drives it.... gut the cat or replace it with a straight pipe.... those two things right there made a HUGE difference for me...

(Oh yeah, blasting Kenny Loggins "Danger Zone" from Top Gun makes a HUGE difference...or so it will seem!)

 

Lose your rat's nest.
Open up the breather for more / cooler air one way or another
Lose your OE fan and get an electric fan
Remove your A/C system ( for the weight and the reduced drag on the engine )
Lighten your flywheel
Remove any weight you can ( including don't race with a full tank and go on a diet if you need to )


That's about all the cheap or free stuff off the top of my head

 

S4 turbo and manifold $100-150
RB 13b exhaust mani flange and piping to space the turbo manifold out to clear the LIM $20
Vortech FMU $90
walbro 255lph pump ( i already have one) $130 if you dont
connectors and hose fittings $50
volvo FMIC (already have)$40
PVC i/c plumb job (temporary) $30 bux max

MY total cost $340

 

be careful with this, it's best to get a double pully assuming you are using the clutch fan (which is also a relatively cheap mod to go e-fan instead) so there isn't excess tension when you remove the airpump belt (and if you have working aux ports or need to pass emissions, don't get rid of the airpump)

 

i am turboing my GSL-SE ala web777 using the stock Bosch EFI, i am going to be running the stock gated PSI on the s4 turbo which to my knowledge is 5.5 or 6.5 psi

 

I don't know how feasible this would be, but couldn't you take some PVC tubing/pipe (or something that you could bend), and attach it to the dinner plate inlet and route the other end to someplace else? (Not sure where, as it would seem like you could suck water up through the tubing into the air filter if the tube/pipe went too low.)

Also, another crazy idea would be convert it to a 'box' intake (sort of like a Jeep Cherokee), and cut holes in the side of the airbox so that cooler air could get in.

But, I dunno. I haven't tried anything like that myself, I've just been thinking about it while at school and while being bored.

 

noone has said the best free mod yet!! Don't just wire your stock 6th ports open take those sleves the hell outta there. Those things are so restrictive! And don't listen to people when they tell you you're going to lose soooo much torque. I can put my car on a hill let the clutch out slow and it will idel up a hill. Not a really steap one, but I'd guess you only lose 2-4 lbft of tq below 3k rpm

 

do a search i tried to stsrt this thread about 2 years ago. I started one when I was a VW guy that got like 7 pages lokg. lets keep 'em commin.

 

how easy is it to take the sleves out? is there a writeup somewhere? (searched, didn't find)

 

you have to take the lower intake off

 

Remove the rear anti-sway bar This allows the watts link to do its job, you will stick to the road around hard corners much better... You get a lot more movement in the back, but since its not so stiff, you wont skip around and slide on the road, both wheels will have excellent traction.

Give it a go, what can it hurt

 

$15 for a 2nd gen coil. Setup for direct fire. Not sure about more hp, but more throttle responsive. Also, like the guy said take out the 5th and 6th actuators, I can tell no difference in lost torque, but sure as hell moves alot quicker.The fuel pump isn't free, but it realy isn't that expensive either. Go with a 195lph pump. Do that and you will feel the difference and it is all less than $75. Also when you do the direct fire,( takes about 15 min. to hook up) run the BUR7EQ plugs in the lead.

 

I too lack those 5th and 6th port valves and actuators. Valves removed and all holes welded over.

Save money on gaskets! Weld up your joins :P

 

take off lower intake manifold reach inside 5th&6th ports and take out the sleves You'll know what I'm talking about once you get the intake manifold off, plus you can ditch the actuators and lose 1/2 a pound. Hey every little bit helps...

 

Throttle Body Mod
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html