Free/Cheap Mods
#4
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i dont know about free, but you can make sure your O2 sensor is fresh along with spark plugs, oil, and air, fuel, oil filters too. I have never tried to tune an SE so i dont know how that would work for you. you could try steaming it then get flammed for doing it.
#5
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yeah, i got new plugs, new drop in, fresh oil change...runs great...
I plan on spending money on it in the future but I was just hoping there was one of those mods where IE: "If you hook hose A into slot B and fill it with frog semen youll get 90000000000000000000000HP"
I plan on spending money on it in the future but I was just hoping there was one of those mods where IE: "If you hook hose A into slot B and fill it with frog semen youll get 90000000000000000000000HP"
#7
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get an intake adapter and cone filter, good for roughly 5 hp, maybey more...
weld up a straight pipe where the cat was, TB mod, remove belt driven accessories, re adjust the TPS per FSM, remove airpump, remove AVC, remove the ENTIRE ac system, the best bang for the buck is really a header, you will notice an insane difference in the upper RPM's, and wire your 5-6 ports open, if you really wanna get crazy like im gonna you can turbo it for under 500 bucks...
weld up a straight pipe where the cat was, TB mod, remove belt driven accessories, re adjust the TPS per FSM, remove airpump, remove AVC, remove the ENTIRE ac system, the best bang for the buck is really a header, you will notice an insane difference in the upper RPM's, and wire your 5-6 ports open, if you really wanna get crazy like im gonna you can turbo it for under 500 bucks...
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#10
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Originally Posted by Gregs
get an intake adapter and cone filter, good for roughly 5 hp, maybey more...
weld up a straight pipe where the cat was, TB mod, remove belt driven accessories, re adjust the TPS per FSM, remove airpump, remove AVC, remove the ENTIRE ac system, the best bang for the buck is really a header, you will notice an insane difference in the upper RPM's, and wire your 5-6 ports open, if you really wanna get crazy like im gonna you can turbo it for under 500 bucks...
weld up a straight pipe where the cat was, TB mod, remove belt driven accessories, re adjust the TPS per FSM, remove airpump, remove AVC, remove the ENTIRE ac system, the best bang for the buck is really a header, you will notice an insane difference in the upper RPM's, and wire your 5-6 ports open, if you really wanna get crazy like im gonna you can turbo it for under 500 bucks...
how are you going turbo for under $500?
#11
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Reemoov the airpump (assuming the 13b has one like the 12a does) or at least the belt that drives it.... gut the cat or replace it with a straight pipe.... those two things right there made a HUGE difference for me...
(Oh yeah, blasting Kenny Loggins "Danger Zone" from Top Gun makes a HUGE difference...or so it will seem!)
(Oh yeah, blasting Kenny Loggins "Danger Zone" from Top Gun makes a HUGE difference...or so it will seem!)
#12
How About A Cup Of STFU
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Lose your rat's nest.
Open up the breather for more / cooler air one way or another
Lose your OE fan and get an electric fan
Remove your A/C system ( for the weight and the reduced drag on the engine )
Lighten your flywheel
Remove any weight you can ( including don't race with a full tank and go on a diet if you need to )
That's about all the cheap or free stuff off the top of my head
Open up the breather for more / cooler air one way or another
Lose your OE fan and get an electric fan
Remove your A/C system ( for the weight and the reduced drag on the engine )
Lighten your flywheel
Remove any weight you can ( including don't race with a full tank and go on a diet if you need to )
That's about all the cheap or free stuff off the top of my head
#13
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Originally Posted by QuagmireMan
sorry for the hijack
how are you going turbo for under $500?
how are you going turbo for under $500?
RB 13b exhaust mani flange and piping to space the turbo manifold out to clear the LIM $20
Vortech FMU $90
walbro 255lph pump ( i already have one) $130 if you dont
connectors and hose fittings $50
volvo FMIC (already have)$40
PVC i/c plumb job (temporary) $30 bux max
MY total cost $340
#14
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Originally Posted by jweather73
Reemoov the airpump (assuming the 13b has one like the 12a does) or at least the belt that drives it....
#15
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i am turboing my GSL-SE ala web777 using the stock Bosch EFI, i am going to be running the stock gated PSI on the s4 turbo which to my knowledge is 5.5 or 6.5 psi
#16
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I don't know how feasible this would be, but couldn't you take some PVC tubing/pipe (or something that you could bend), and attach it to the dinner plate inlet and route the other end to someplace else? (Not sure where, as it would seem like you could suck water up through the tubing into the air filter if the tube/pipe went too low.)
Also, another crazy idea would be convert it to a 'box' intake (sort of like a Jeep Cherokee), and cut holes in the side of the airbox so that cooler air could get in.
But, I dunno. I haven't tried anything like that myself, I've just been thinking about it while at school and while being bored.
Also, another crazy idea would be convert it to a 'box' intake (sort of like a Jeep Cherokee), and cut holes in the side of the airbox so that cooler air could get in.
But, I dunno. I haven't tried anything like that myself, I've just been thinking about it while at school and while being bored.
#17
The Shadetree Project
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noone has said the best free mod yet!! Don't just wire your stock 6th ports open take those sleves the hell outta there. Those things are so restrictive! And don't listen to people when they tell you you're going to lose soooo much torque. I can put my car on a hill let the clutch out slow and it will idel up a hill. Not a really steap one, but I'd guess you only lose 2-4 lbft of tq below 3k rpm
#19
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Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
noone has said the best free mod yet!! Don't just wire your stock 6th ports open take those sleves the hell outta there. Those things are so restrictive! And don't listen to people when they tell you you're going to lose soooo much torque. I can put my car on a hill let the clutch out slow and it will idel up a hill. Not a really steap one, but I'd guess you only lose 2-4 lbft of tq below 3k rpm
#21
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Remove the rear anti-sway bar This allows the watts link to do its job, you will stick to the road around hard corners much better... You get a lot more movement in the back, but since its not so stiff, you wont skip around and slide on the road, both wheels will have excellent traction.
Give it a go, what can it hurt
Give it a go, what can it hurt
#22
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$15 for a 2nd gen coil. Setup for direct fire. Not sure about more hp, but more throttle responsive. Also, like the guy said take out the 5th and 6th actuators, I can tell no difference in lost torque, but sure as hell moves alot quicker.The fuel pump isn't free, but it realy isn't that expensive either. Go with a 195lph pump. Do that and you will feel the difference and it is all less than $75. Also when you do the direct fire,( takes about 15 min. to hook up) run the BUR7EQ plugs in the lead.
#23
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Originally Posted by Brianhsval
$15 for a 2nd gen coil. Setup for direct fire. Not sure about more hp, but more throttle responsive. Also, like the guy said take out the 5th and 6th actuators, I can tell no difference in lost torque, but sure as hell moves alot quicker.The fuel pump isn't free, but it realy isn't that expensive either. Go with a 195lph pump. Do that and you will feel the difference and it is all less than $75. Also when you do the direct fire,( takes about 15 min. to hook up) run the BUR7EQ plugs in the lead.
Save money on gaskets! Weld up your joins :P