flush clutch fluids?
01-11-04, 08:09 PM
#4
it can be done by yourself as well with a brake bleed kit. also, without one. you'll just have to go back and forth. the pedal isn't going to return to the up position after you crack the screw and push it down. then you tighten the screw and pump.
01-11-04, 09:44 PM
#6
Yea, I'm working on it...
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mine leaks so i just keep adding more fluid in and i flush it out that way 
you don't need a bleder kit, save your money, all you really need is a wrench and a buddy to pump the clutch. Here's what you do: you get some extra hosing and conect it to the bleeder valve, lead the hose to a cup and open the valve and have your buddy pump the clutch until you get a solid stream of fluid and close off the valve. you can put the fluid that went into your cup back into your resivoir and whala.
you don't need a bleder kit, save your money, all you really need is a wrench and a buddy to pump the clutch. Here's what you do: you get some extra hosing and conect it to the bleeder valve, lead the hose to a cup and open the valve and have your buddy pump the clutch until you get a solid stream of fluid and close off the valve. you can put the fluid that went into your cup back into your resivoir and whala.
Last edited by Rotofire; 01-11-04 at 09:47 PM.
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01-12-04, 01:17 AM
#9
lol, there's only about two feet of line to purge, one person can do it by him (or her!) self.
Just open the bleeder, stick a length of plastic tubing on the nipple, stick the other end into a suitable receptacle (I use an empty mustard squeeze bottle) and pump the clutch pedal until all the fluid is in the bottle. Add more to the reservoir and repeat until the fluid is clean in the plastic tube. Once the tube is immersed in the fluid in the bottle, no air can get back in to the system so you can just close the bleeder and top off the reservoir.
Just open the bleeder, stick a length of plastic tubing on the nipple, stick the other end into a suitable receptacle (I use an empty mustard squeeze bottle) and pump the clutch pedal until all the fluid is in the bottle. Add more to the reservoir and repeat until the fluid is clean in the plastic tube. Once the tube is immersed in the fluid in the bottle, no air can get back in to the system so you can just close the bleeder and top off the reservoir.
01-12-04, 06:31 AM
#10
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Originally posted by CompuBob
Bleeder Kit = Someone who dosent have any friends
You have friends, Dont you? :P
Bleeder Kit = Someone who dosent have any friends
You have friends, Dont you? :P
02-26-04, 07:30 PM
#14
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
There isn't too much of a need to bleed your clutch fluid, since it isn't exposed to the same heat that your brake fluid has due to the calipers absorbing a lot of the heat -being connected to the friction pads.
It is good preventative maintenance, however, since brake fluid has a tendency to absorb water out of the ambient air which can lead to a mushy clutch pedal. While you're bleeding the system, run your hand around the bottom of the Slave Cylinder (mounted to the back plate of the motor), and see if there's any clutch fluid leaking out from the rubber boot. This could be due to the Slave Cylinder leaking inside the rubber boot and gradually oozing out over time. Slave Cylinder rebuild kits are cheap and fairly straightforward, and you can remove the SC from the car, which makes the job easier.
Once you start to bleed the clutch, make sure that your fluid in the reservoir never gets below halfway, or you could introduce bubbles in the line that'll have to work their way out.
Also, if you're replacing the fluid for preventative maintenance, be sure to use clean, fresh fluid, and what you bleed out should be thrown away. Putting this back into the system is just recycling the potentially watered-down old fluid, and doesn't really save you much.
As wackyracer said, there are separate reservoirs for the brakes, but they are located in the same general location. HTH,
It is good preventative maintenance, however, since brake fluid has a tendency to absorb water out of the ambient air which can lead to a mushy clutch pedal. While you're bleeding the system, run your hand around the bottom of the Slave Cylinder (mounted to the back plate of the motor), and see if there's any clutch fluid leaking out from the rubber boot. This could be due to the Slave Cylinder leaking inside the rubber boot and gradually oozing out over time. Slave Cylinder rebuild kits are cheap and fairly straightforward, and you can remove the SC from the car, which makes the job easier.
Once you start to bleed the clutch, make sure that your fluid in the reservoir never gets below halfway, or you could introduce bubbles in the line that'll have to work their way out.
Also, if you're replacing the fluid for preventative maintenance, be sure to use clean, fresh fluid, and what you bleed out should be thrown away. Putting this back into the system is just recycling the potentially watered-down old fluid, and doesn't really save you much.
As wackyracer said, there are separate reservoirs for the brakes, but they are located in the same general location. HTH,
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