First time rotory owner needs help.
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Jackson, MI
First time rotory owner needs help.
I'm new to forums as well as rotory motors. I just purchase a one owner 1979 RX 7 with 56k miles and no rust(a blessing in Michigan) and I have a few questions. The motor won't rev-out easily, take a long time to get to red line, is this normal, what should I do to remidy? The temp gage is showing just into the normal range like it's running very cold after I've driven it hard, do I need to replace the thermostat? When checking the oil their is some white milky at the top of the dip stick, water I suspect, could be the thermostat again? Thanks for your help.
It isn't normal for the engine to take time to reach redline. There are many reasons you could have this problem. Maybe the airfuel/carb is running to lean, ignition timing not set correctly, . You should probably do a full tune up to check the condition of the engine.
Temperature gage
Your gage should read in the middle. To check thermostat operation start the engine when it is cold and place your hand on the thermostat housing to feel how warm it is. You should little temperature until (guessing) after 5 minutes of running then it should get hot quickly. If this is the case and your gage reads cold maybe the temperature sensor needs replacing. If you feel a slow gradual increase in temperature than your tstat is either stuck open or isn't installed.
The milky white on the top of the tipstick is very common. Although if your car is running cool like the gage sayes then this will increase the milk. Basically the PCV system isn't working well at circulating some air through the crankcase which is a common problem and is well documented on this website.
Good luck with the car. Rust free is most worthy.
Temperature gage
Your gage should read in the middle. To check thermostat operation start the engine when it is cold and place your hand on the thermostat housing to feel how warm it is. You should little temperature until (guessing) after 5 minutes of running then it should get hot quickly. If this is the case and your gage reads cold maybe the temperature sensor needs replacing. If you feel a slow gradual increase in temperature than your tstat is either stuck open or isn't installed.
The milky white on the top of the tipstick is very common. Although if your car is running cool like the gage sayes then this will increase the milk. Basically the PCV system isn't working well at circulating some air through the crankcase which is a common problem and is well documented on this website.
Good luck with the car. Rust free is most worthy.
Opel1970:
Could be a fuel/storage issue as far as slow engine revs - maybe not enough fuel getting to the carb??
Everybody LOVES to get ahold of an old, low mileage car...BUT if the previous owner was clueless about proper storage it usually meant the car was sitting for l-o-o-ong periods of time without the fuel system being properly prepped first. ie: years-old gas sitting in the fuel system, leaving gunk and deposits thru-out. Add a partially filled gas tank to the mix so there is plenty of condensation cycles (=water condensing into insides of tank), means the tank may be shedding its innards into the fuel lines, and worse, thru to those tiny little jets in the carb.
Q: Did you change the FUEL FILTER??? $2 item hanging in front of rear driver's side wheel. This should be changed ONCE a year, especially if you winter-store the car (which we all hope you will do so Michigan rust will be kept at bay!). If, after a change things improve, you might have been lucky... OR the fouled tank will simply re-plug the new filter. Solution is to pull the tank, have a Rad shop professionally chem dunk it, then reline it with a product like POR15's fuel tank sealer kit. As me how I know ;p
Needless to say we are assuming you changed ALL the fluids after your lucky purchase? includes decades-old BRAKE and CLUTCH fluid that has by now become more water than br fluid, happily rusting away the components!!
Did we mention all NEW cooling HOSES - including heater-hoses to passenger compartment?!!?! Driver side heater hose famous for failing right under oil filter in SA (79-80 RX7s) resulting in catastrophic coolant loss, and taking the little rotor-motor with it!!
Just because the rest of the car is like-new, unfortunately all the fluids and rubber-bits do not age so gracefully
PM me if you want more details, suggestions-
AND: post a PIC of your car so we can all see it!!
Welcome. Lots of great help here-
Stu Aull
80GS (64K ebay special)
Alaska
Could be a fuel/storage issue as far as slow engine revs - maybe not enough fuel getting to the carb??
Everybody LOVES to get ahold of an old, low mileage car...BUT if the previous owner was clueless about proper storage it usually meant the car was sitting for l-o-o-ong periods of time without the fuel system being properly prepped first. ie: years-old gas sitting in the fuel system, leaving gunk and deposits thru-out. Add a partially filled gas tank to the mix so there is plenty of condensation cycles (=water condensing into insides of tank), means the tank may be shedding its innards into the fuel lines, and worse, thru to those tiny little jets in the carb.
Q: Did you change the FUEL FILTER??? $2 item hanging in front of rear driver's side wheel. This should be changed ONCE a year, especially if you winter-store the car (which we all hope you will do so Michigan rust will be kept at bay!). If, after a change things improve, you might have been lucky... OR the fouled tank will simply re-plug the new filter. Solution is to pull the tank, have a Rad shop professionally chem dunk it, then reline it with a product like POR15's fuel tank sealer kit. As me how I know ;p
Needless to say we are assuming you changed ALL the fluids after your lucky purchase? includes decades-old BRAKE and CLUTCH fluid that has by now become more water than br fluid, happily rusting away the components!!
Did we mention all NEW cooling HOSES - including heater-hoses to passenger compartment?!!?! Driver side heater hose famous for failing right under oil filter in SA (79-80 RX7s) resulting in catastrophic coolant loss, and taking the little rotor-motor with it!!
Just because the rest of the car is like-new, unfortunately all the fluids and rubber-bits do not age so gracefully
PM me if you want more details, suggestions-
AND: post a PIC of your car so we can all see it!!
Welcome. Lots of great help here-
Stu Aull
80GS (64K ebay special)
Alaska
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Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: SF BayArea
Check your timing. Easy enough from topside with an electronic timing light.
12A in normal trim should read about 1/4 scale on temp gauge. Usually high temp means bad timing. Sometimes a 13b will go up to halfway, though.
12A in normal trim should read about 1/4 scale on temp gauge. Usually high temp means bad timing. Sometimes a 13b will go up to halfway, though.
Rotary Freak
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL
Temp gauge should go up to about a quarter.
Not revving is probably the secondaries not working. Check the diaphragm on the secondary pump.
The milky white substance is most probably caused by the purge valve, either missing, disconnected or plugged. At least on my 80, that would be it.
Not a bad idea to check timing, but unless someone has mucked with it, it should be fine.
And, he didn't say it was overheating, that was the other post, which unfortunately was not the best information.
Good idea to change filters, fluids, hoses etc. Stu is right about the rubber parts and fluids not aging well.
Not revving is probably the secondaries not working. Check the diaphragm on the secondary pump.
The milky white substance is most probably caused by the purge valve, either missing, disconnected or plugged. At least on my 80, that would be it.
Not a bad idea to check timing, but unless someone has mucked with it, it should be fine.
And, he didn't say it was overheating, that was the other post, which unfortunately was not the best information.
Good idea to change filters, fluids, hoses etc. Stu is right about the rubber parts and fluids not aging well.
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