PT Ray

After having to correct a couple issues I finally got my SE converted over to HEI modules on a stock setup. The wiring process is basically based on the previous threads that have you start my gutting a couple j109s and jumping the pins together........ One of the issues I had was that the G pin on the module had to go to the + wire off of the pickup coil instead off the negative. The B and C pins I just wired directly to the coil leaving the original wires connected also. I left everything as simple as possible incase I wanted to go back to j109. I even used the two holes already on the strut tower to mount the bracket.

evil_motors

iTrader: (3)

so how does it feel... any difference?

PT Ray

The car runs just a good as it did w/ j109s. I thought I remeber someone saying their tach would bounce a little with hei's but mine is just as steady as it was before. I am just happy to have a cheap alternative, leaving two more spare ignitors for my 84GSL. I will wait to burn up my spare j109s before converting the GSL.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah I was about to say that you never want to gut a functioning J-109. Or you could simply file down some quick disconnects to the point where they fit snugly in the plastic connector. I did that on two of my installs and the wires never fall out.

Interesting, so you're still running totally stock (high tension) ignition through the cap and rotor, and only replaced the ignition modules to some very common ones found at any auto parts store. Good job! Next you'll need to try DLIDFIS since it's only one more ignitor, one more coil, and a very minor rewiring at this point. Simply Y (parallel) the pickup signal wires on the leading HEI to another one, get another coil, and then pull the leading wires from the dizzy and put them directly on both coils. Viola! Extremely easy DLIDFIS since all the foundation work has already been done. Oh yeah, just put the old leading coil-to-cap wire in the glove box to go back to totally stock ignition if a leading coil or ignitor ever dies (how's that for reliabilty insurance?) and then move all three trailing wires to the leading positions on the cap for the better circuit (carbon button) and one less gap to jump. It's also a good idea to wire up a relay so the ignitors and coils are fed full battery/alternator voltage instead of from the typically high resistance ancient ignition switch wires.