Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm debating this subject right now. I have a fresh rebuilt S4 NA in a rotary truck with a hogged out Nikki on a modded 12A manifold with 6 port flange welded on. It starts up and runs perfectly. I have a Holley but I'm reluctant to swap it on because the Nikki runs too well.

Do I want to put up with hard starts, lazy accel pump and glitches/stumbles due to engine/chassis vibrations? The REPU has stiff suspension. I could try it, but I can already tell I'll like the Nikki better.

Starfox07

Just curious, besides fuel sloshing/starvation issues, what is wrong with Holley setups?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Just have wankel=awesome answer that question. He's our self-proclaimed holley knowitall.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

I keep seeing this recommendation...how are you guys running a nikki on a 6port motor? The ONLY feasible configuration I can come up with is a holley manifold with redrilling or an adaptor plate to run the nikki....am I far off?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I have two weird manifolds modded by someone who can weld aluminum, to fit a Nikki on a 6 port.

The first one was a 6 port 12A manifold with an RE-SI or GSL-SE flange welded to it. The ports are close enough to an S4 in position that it works. It is in my REPU and runs perfectly on a fresh rebuilt S4 NA.

The other one was a 79 12A manifold welded to an S4 NA flange. This one wasn't down very well and cracked. It was also never blended in the runners so the flow hits a brick wall. The guy I got it from said it was just used to get fresh rebuilt 6 ports test fired with a carb so customers could see them run, without all the complicated mess of EFI. Cool idea, but poor manifold, so I'm thinking about attacking it with a dremel and getting the crack welded up.

There are actually pictures of these two manifolds on the forum somewhere but it would take a long time to find them. Unless...

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

This is before it was cleaned up and fixed. Enjoy!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

And here it is cleaned up

and repaired.

Starfox07

So I decided to go ahead and stick with my Dellorto setup. It looks cooler than a Holley (velocity stacks!) and I did get it pretty close on the tune.

I've located a stock S5 6 port in running condition, but the seller claims it was overheating. He thinks it was a problem with the cooling system, but I'd like to be more sure. If it was an internal coolant seal, the oil would be milky, is that correct? Is there any other way to test and see if the motor is healthy?

The seller wants $400 for the long block or $360 for the keg.

Also, what needs to happen with the clutch/counterweight/flywheel with the S5 engine? I know that something needs to be changed, I just don't know the details.

I'd really like to go with a lightweight flywheel, so if anyone has recommendations, that would be great.

wankel=awesome

It's cheap. Thats what wrong with them. The common RB carbs are usually the cheapest least performance oriented carbs to come out of holley with minor mods to fuel curve. It costs 400+ $$ worth of tuning parts and accessories to get one to do its job nearly as well as the nikki carb or any italian 2bbl.. And thats AFTER you bought the carb for 400-600$


I'm building one here soon for a guy and im going to post a thread here of all the required mods/parts so people can see what a pain in the *** they really are.

And I never claimed to know it all about them. I just havent learned anything new about them in years...

Starfox07

I was thinking about how awesome my motor is gonna look with my planned color scheme...too awesome for a holley. Staying with my 48 DHLA.

I've decided to move on the S5 engine. It's apparently got 20k miles on it since a rebuild and it has TII housings. Everything else is S5 N/A.

He's going to include the clutch/flywheel/counterweight as part of the deal.

When I put in my distributor, front cover, it should run totally fine, correct? I'm using premix so not messing with the OMP, at least not for now.

Is there anything I'm forgetting? The exterior of the engine is identical to my S3 13b minus the front cover, right? It will bolt to my SE transmission without issue and the input shaft has the same splines, too, correct?

Starfox07

BUMP. Anyone?

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Ummm...nobody mentioned that the fuel sloshing and starvation problems with Holleys are easily remedied. Centre pivot float bowls, which I got free from a garbage 4150, about say 20-30 bucks for the floats and hardware, I spent a couple dollars on jet extensions. And got an adjustable vac diaphragm for 40 bucks. I haven't even spent over a 100 dollars in parts...and the carb was 100 bucks.
I would have gone sidedraft but couldn't find any carbs the right size for my application or a good price.

In regards to the s5 if the owner says its overheating don't bother even thinking about it. Look for one in good condition. But yes S3 front cover, disty, engine mount and oil pan. And if I recall correctly all NA are the same size flywheel and clutch. Just gotta have the matching flywheel or counterweight to your rotors.

Starfox07

The current owner bought it from another guy recently who said it overheated once. Current owner replaced the water pump and claims it ran fine afterwards. We'll see.

For the price I'm getting it for, the motor could be completely trash and I wouldn't feel bad.

Thanks for replying! I should be able to have this guy running by next weekend.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Well yeah the miles are low enough all the parts should still be good even if it has bad coolant seals. Well good luck man

Starfox07

Wrapped my new atkins single piece intake. Wasn't really what I'd call easy, but I'm fairly pleased with the result. Hopefully it keeps as much ambient heat from heatsoaking the manifold as possible. This combined with my wrapped header should keep things cool.




Used exactly all of the 15' roll. Good thing...it wasn't cheap.