Finally getting around to fixing up my imobiliser
Finally getting around to fixing up my imobiliser
Well.. I got my car alarm fitted a few days after I got my rx... bout 3 years ago.... and I didn't realise until around 6 months later that for some reason the bastards who did the alarm (yes..autobahn, you *****!) cut my wire that was my engine imobiliser switch.
I found out later because I didn't use it much after the alarm was installed, and then one day when I switched it on...I could still here the fuel pump on with the keys in the "ON" position.....
Anyway, so the other day I finally started to look at where the wires were and my switch (tucked away in a nice little location)..and the wire was just cut...... only a little bit was left. I tried to trace the wire but they mustve cut it at both ends.
So......who here knows much about re-wiring the imobiliser.... From what I can gather it worked but cutting out the fuel pump when the imobilser was on. I jacked the car up and took a look at the pump but couldn't see how they did it before/how u do it.
Being somewhat clueless for Auto -Elec stuff anyone know how to fix it up? I can run new wire from the cabin switch through to the fuel pump, but got nfi where to attach it to/solder/whatever
I found out later because I didn't use it much after the alarm was installed, and then one day when I switched it on...I could still here the fuel pump on with the keys in the "ON" position.....
Anyway, so the other day I finally started to look at where the wires were and my switch (tucked away in a nice little location)..and the wire was just cut...... only a little bit was left. I tried to trace the wire but they mustve cut it at both ends.
So......who here knows much about re-wiring the imobiliser.... From what I can gather it worked but cutting out the fuel pump when the imobilser was on. I jacked the car up and took a look at the pump but couldn't see how they did it before/how u do it.
Being somewhat clueless for Auto -Elec stuff anyone know how to fix it up? I can run new wire from the cabin switch through to the fuel pump, but got nfi where to attach it to/solder/whatever
Ok Sorry.... my alarm is a hornet II.
Before I bought the car... the previous owner had a imobilser on the car that when was on cut power to the fuel pump. If you flicked the imobilser on and turned the key to ON you couldn't here the pump on. Where as if the imobiliser was off you can here the pump going.
The switch that did turn the imobiliser on/off is just under the glove box. When I looked at the back of it I can see the wire cut about 2 inches after the switch. I'm assuming the wire use to run from the switch, through the carpet/floorboard and under the car to the fuel pump. It's here where I am stuck... I need to know where to put a new wire onto the fuel pump that will cut off the power when I choose to use the switch.
Before I bought the car... the previous owner had a imobilser on the car that when was on cut power to the fuel pump. If you flicked the imobilser on and turned the key to ON you couldn't here the pump on. Where as if the imobiliser was off you can here the pump going.
The switch that did turn the imobiliser on/off is just under the glove box. When I looked at the back of it I can see the wire cut about 2 inches after the switch. I'm assuming the wire use to run from the switch, through the carpet/floorboard and under the car to the fuel pump. It's here where I am stuck... I need to know where to put a new wire onto the fuel pump that will cut off the power when I choose to use the switch.
It sounds very simple, and actually wouldn't even be a part of your alarm at all.
All you need to do is put a switch in-line with the hot lead to the fuel pump. Make sure that it is rated for the proper amperage (10 AMP I believe). Then any time that switch is open, which would generally be considered OFF, your pump would not function.
If you need more specific instructions, let me know.
Brian Heston
All you need to do is put a switch in-line with the hot lead to the fuel pump. Make sure that it is rated for the proper amperage (10 AMP I believe). Then any time that switch is open, which would generally be considered OFF, your pump would not function.
If you need more specific instructions, let me know.
Brian Heston
Most alarms systems have an immobiliser output. Try turning the ignition on or starting the car with the alarm system active. They might have hooked the immobiliser up to the fuel pump, ignition or starter and cut the old kill switch because it wasn't needed.
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Here is a simple wiring diagram on how to hook it up. You can either run a new lead straight from the battery, in which case you would have to remember to turn it off when you shut the car off. Or, the way I would recommend doing it, would be to run it from the fuse block using the existing lead. The reason for this is that it is already run through the ignition as well, and thus you can't forget to shut it off. In this case, the ignition and fuse block would be on the diagram in between the battery, and the switch. Hope it helps.
Brian Heston
Brian Heston
Last edited by BrianHeston; Sep 23, 2003 at 11:40 PM.
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