damon

Well the beast is on the road and running great, $339.98 later for a carb swap and partial rebuild. It turns out that the car was perfectly in time but the carb was cracked at the floatbowl at the rear rotor. So it was only running on one rotor and flooding the other. I want to personally thank all of you here that helped me get as far as I was.

On another note I have some more problems ...

1. Taillight are very dim

2. steering is very loose and the wheel moves up and down

3. good radar dector (this thing flies)

peace

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

try new bulbs on the tailights, they do get old.

Loose steering is caused by to much clearance in the steering gear and it needs to be adjusted,

as for it moving up and down, dont know mine doesnt have tilt steering.

damon

No not like tilt steering, its in the tube. about 1/2" of play in and out. Also the turn signals dont cancel out.

peace

Redwood

Sound like the clips in the steering column are broken. There's a small clip that holds two shafts together in the column. This is so when you get in a wreck and nail the steering wheel, it will snap the clip and reduce the impact slightly. Do a search, there's plenty of info on this out there. I don't know how to fix it, but I know it's easy.

Redwood

Oh, like I have anything better to do. Here ya go.

The thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ighlight=rivet

The info: The steering column is actually a telescoping rod within the black column jacket that runs from the steering wheel to the box. The column is not much more than a half-inch thick, and it's designed to collapse in the event of an accident. The two plastic rivets that keep the telescoping column at its full length will not break easily, but a hammer blow could be enough to render useless your new $565 steering box and column.

In the event that you do break the collapsible shaft, I've heard of a few remedies. One is to remove the steering box and shaft, and then tack weld the column to the correct length. Another suggestion that I've heard was to drill a hole through the shaft where the plastic rivets are, and replace them with nylon screws. (Aftermarket license plate screws are often made of nylon or plastic.)

The best suggestion that I've heard came from Dave Barniger at KD Rotary, and it can be done with the column and steering gear in place: turn the steering wheel so that the wheels are straight ahead and position the wheel so that you have the desired clearance between the wheel and the plastic steering column covers. From the floorboard, measure 7.5" up the column, and then drill a 1/2" hole into the bottom of the steel column jacket. Then, through that hole, drill a quarter or eighth inch hole through the collapsible shaft. Install a quarter or eighth inch ALUMINUM pop rivet into the hole and you're done! The idea behind using an aluminum rivet is to retain the safety factor of the collapsible shaft. I should note that I've never done tried this repair, but it sure sounds like a great tip. Dave says he's done it probably twenty times, and it only takes 15 minutes or so.


Good luck.

Gatorgunner

If replacing the tailight bulbs doesnt solve the dim problem, try taking sandpaper to the inside of the socket that the bulbs go into. Just scuff them up a little to remove any caked on stuff (stuff being a technical term)
Also, im not sure if this will work for a 7, but we did this to my buddies car when he had this problem. Find the ground wire and bolt somewhere else, or sand down the area it attaches to, (like what you did for the bulb socket). On my buddies car, it was like day and night after we rewired the ground somewhere else.
Hope this helps

damon

Thanks for all the info guys Ill try when I get home

peace

Keaponlaffen

don't forget to clean the reflectors and lenses on your tail lights... mine were disgusting, and prevented most of the light from even hitting the lenses... very dim...

Jeff

Defprun

noone awnsered his radar detector question

851stgen12a

Valantien one!!! The Best radar and lasar detector you can buy... Not cheap though. about $350.
If you want a cheaper one that still works great go with the Cobra detector. I think its around $100 or so. Was voted best bang for your buck in MOtor Trend I think.

iam1ru12

I've got a Valentine One. One of the best investments I ever made. It has saved me SOOOO many times!!!!! Hands down, this is the best radar detector out there. Check it out at http://www.valentine1.com/home.asp . One of the best features is that you can send yout unit in for upgrades to th lastest dector. I bought mine in 93 and I've sent it back many times for upgrades. It still works great!

-Mike

damon

thanks guys I like the Valentine, Ill be looking into it.

Update: Ok, there is about 1 1/2" of play in the steering wheel. Once I get it up to about 50 mph it shakes pretty bad and the whole car seems loose. When acceling fast it revs to 7k in first, second, and third but when I shift to fourth it breaks up and starts kicking and bucking.

thanks for the help so far keep it coming

peace

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

i have the same play problem in the wheel. i haven't remedied it yet so if you figure out how to master it, let me know. good to see you're up and running again.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Rebuild the entire steering column thats what I did. I took it completely apart and found a lot of **** wrong that adjustments werent gonna fix. I believe a entire new column is like $600 now I paid $500 for a sector shaft alone When I did mine a complete column was almost $900 then. But my steering is perfect now

damon

Hey guys I was waiting for you to chime in.

Jeremy - I am gonna try the wright up I saw the other day on drilling a hole 7 1/4" off the floor and installing a new nylon screw

Mike P - When are you gonna bring your new toy down to let me drive?

peace

Defprun

My car blows a puff of blue smoke at 7500 rpm....is that because of the 4 cats?