1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

a few quick questions

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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 01:51 AM
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rotaryboy's Avatar
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a few quick questions

hey guys im new to the forum. just a few problems ive been having. number one is when i start the car there is a buzzing (kinda like when the door is open noise) coming from the dashboard. ive noticed that when i rev my engine the sound makes the same noise (it looks like its coming from the tach). what could the problem be? i took out my wires to the door so it cant be that...

ALso, just 2 days ago, my choke does not stay out anymore when its cold. i have to manually pull it out, because it wont stay out. i never had a problem in 3 years with this now all of a sudden it wont stay out.

Any help would be nice...
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 01:54 AM
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From: Da Barrio!!!(Irving, Texas)
that buzzer, is mazda's version of a shift light
What kind of car do you have???? LATERZ, Andrew
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 02:02 AM
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From: WInnipeg
i have an 84 GSL
and it has never made that buzzing noise before really. how do i fix it, and why is it happening all of a sudden?
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 04:37 AM
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From: Troy,Mi
could be some electrical problems with both things at once,

the choke is a unit,
it will need to be replaced in whole,
it is very very expensive so i sugest buying it used.

the buzzer is indded your "shift light"
or if its like the 2nd gens it could also be a warning buzzer,
on my 2nd gen it went off when the engine got too hot,or i ras running low on oil,or i was running low on coolant,
it was very loud and anoying,

as for my first gen "well i never slacked so i dont know"

there are some articles on adjusting the tach buzzer,
or you can just buy a new cluster,

search

is your tach still reading correctly?

i will have a spare cluster i could sell you soon if you need one.
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 01:30 PM
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From: WInnipeg
my tach only works when it gets hot, maybe after 10 or 20 minutes in the winter. as for my choke, it still does work, but just doesnt stay pulled out so why would the WHOLE unit have to be replaced
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 01:49 PM
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The choke is basically a cable that runs from your dash to the carb. In between your dash and your carb there is an electromagnet that hold the choke where you put it. If the magnet goes out, or stops working, the choke will still work, the magnet just wont hold where you put it anymore. So when he said replace the whole unit, he meant the whole magnetic part of it. As for the buzzer problem, it could be a warning buzzer telling you that the choke magnet isint working, or maybe another warning saying something else is wrong, which could be the same reason your choke isint working. I doubt its the over rev buzzer everyone is talking about, only because that is only supposed to come on when you red-line it, and I dont see how that would just suddenly start going off for no reason if it never has before...You actually have to take the cluster apart to make is go off at different RPM's. Guys...Doesnt the tach run off of something in the ignition? Ignitors? Coils? Im just thinking that the fact his tach only works after its warm is kinda odd too...

~T.J.

PS - I may have a choke unit I could let you have cheap...I dont know if it works or not, and I dont know if it will fit your car, it should. It came off of an 81, Im sure someone here would know if it would fit your car.

Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; Apr 4, 2002 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 01:57 PM
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rotaryboy,
Before you run off to buy a new magnet for your choke........check the fuse! That is the most common reason for the choke to quit working.
hope this helps,
hanman
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 03:31 PM
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From: WInnipeg
which fuse is it
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 03:38 PM
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Look under the dash by the steering wheel. Replace any blown fuses.
The fuses are labeled, although there will not be one labeled "choke", it will be a fuse with a bunch of other things on the circuit.
But, a blown fuse is a dead giveaway. If you have a Haynes or Mazda shop manual, look in the wiring diagrams.
I would take a look for you but, I am at work right now.
hahahaha
hanman
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 03:43 PM
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From: WInnipeg
no fuses look like they are blown. where is the magnet solenoid... i can just see the choke going straight to the carb so it must be under the dash
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 04:15 PM
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Is that buzzing on all the time? On my old Volvo (i know i know) the buzzer would come on when the brakes were applied and both brake lights were out (I found out after a week of driving this way). Might want to check that just in case.
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 09:36 PM
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From: WV
Also, just 2 days ago, my choke does not stay out anymore when its cold. i have to manually pull it out, because it wont stay out.
On my 79 I had the same problem. I got out the multimeter, and traced the wires which told the choke when the car was up to temperature. Turned out the wires on the choke's water temp sensor had broken loose. this is *not* the temp guage in the radiator. I'm talking about the one on the back of the water pump housing. it's a simple fix, and easy to check. Get one from a pick-n-pull and check it in the yard easy stuff *always* check electric stuff with a meter to avoid usless new parts.

BTW, if it turns out to be the problem, do *not* over tighten the new one. the treaded part is simply pressed into the nut side (impressive terminology, no?) with the interworkings inbetween. I had to remove the whole pump and tear it apart to get the stupid threaded section out. that's ok tho, because i rebuilt the oil metering pump at the same time, and it gave me great access.
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Old Apr 4, 2002 | 09:51 PM
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From: 3OH5
When I had a *choke* in my first 83 GSL, It was broken.

I took the **** off, and filed a small "channel in the back side of the ****.

Put the **** back on.

Then I could use a quarter (or a nickel) to hold the choke out for me until I felt it was warm enough.
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