a few quick questions
a few quick questions
hey guys im new to the forum. just a few problems ive been having. number one is when i start the car there is a buzzing (kinda like when the door is open noise) coming from the dashboard. ive noticed that when i rev my engine the sound makes the same noise (it looks like its coming from the tach). what could the problem be? i took out my wires to the door so it cant be that...
ALso, just 2 days ago, my choke does not stay out anymore when its cold. i have to manually pull it out, because it wont stay out. i never had a problem in 3 years with this now all of a sudden it wont stay out.
Any help would be nice...
ALso, just 2 days ago, my choke does not stay out anymore when its cold. i have to manually pull it out, because it wont stay out. i never had a problem in 3 years with this now all of a sudden it wont stay out.
Any help would be nice...
could be some electrical problems with both things at once,
the choke is a unit,
it will need to be replaced in whole,
it is very very expensive so i sugest buying it used.
the buzzer is indded your "shift light"
or if its like the 2nd gens it could also be a warning buzzer,
on my 2nd gen it went off when the engine got too hot,or i ras running low on oil,or i was running low on coolant,
it was very loud and anoying,
as for my first gen "well i never slacked so i dont know"
there are some articles on adjusting the tach buzzer,
or you can just buy a new cluster,
search
is your tach still reading correctly?
i will have a spare cluster i could sell you soon if you need one.
the choke is a unit,
it will need to be replaced in whole,
it is very very expensive so i sugest buying it used.
the buzzer is indded your "shift light"
or if its like the 2nd gens it could also be a warning buzzer,
on my 2nd gen it went off when the engine got too hot,or i ras running low on oil,or i was running low on coolant,
it was very loud and anoying,
as for my first gen "well i never slacked so i dont know"
there are some articles on adjusting the tach buzzer,
or you can just buy a new cluster,
search
is your tach still reading correctly?
i will have a spare cluster i could sell you soon if you need one.
my tach only works when it gets hot, maybe after 10 or 20 minutes in the winter. as for my choke, it still does work, but just doesnt stay pulled out so why would the WHOLE unit have to be replaced
The choke is basically a cable that runs from your dash to the carb. In between your dash and your carb there is an electromagnet that hold the choke where you put it. If the magnet goes out, or stops working, the choke will still work, the magnet just wont hold where you put it anymore. So when he said replace the whole unit, he meant the whole magnetic part of it. As for the buzzer problem, it could be a warning buzzer telling you that the choke magnet isint working, or maybe another warning saying something else is wrong, which could be the same reason your choke isint working. I doubt its the over rev buzzer everyone is talking about, only because that is only supposed to come on when you red-line it, and I dont see how that would just suddenly start going off for no reason if it never has before...You actually have to take the cluster apart to make is go off at different RPM's. Guys...Doesnt the tach run off of something in the ignition? Ignitors? Coils? Im just thinking that the fact his tach only works after its warm is kinda odd too...
~T.J.
PS - I may have a choke unit I could let you have cheap...I dont know if it works or not, and I dont know if it will fit your car, it should. It came off of an 81, Im sure someone here would know if it would fit your car.
~T.J.
PS - I may have a choke unit I could let you have cheap...I dont know if it works or not, and I dont know if it will fit your car, it should. It came off of an 81, Im sure someone here would know if it would fit your car.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; Apr 4, 2002 at 01:51 PM.
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Look under the dash by the steering wheel. Replace any blown fuses.
The fuses are labeled, although there will not be one labeled "choke", it will be a fuse with a bunch of other things on the circuit.
But, a blown fuse is a dead giveaway. If you have a Haynes or Mazda shop manual, look in the wiring diagrams.
I would take a look for you but, I am at work right now.
hahahaha
hanman
The fuses are labeled, although there will not be one labeled "choke", it will be a fuse with a bunch of other things on the circuit.
But, a blown fuse is a dead giveaway. If you have a Haynes or Mazda shop manual, look in the wiring diagrams.
I would take a look for you but, I am at work right now.
hahahaha
hanman
Is that buzzing on all the time? On my old Volvo (i know i know) the buzzer would come on when the brakes were applied and both brake lights were out (I found out after a week of driving this way). Might want to check that just in case.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 62
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From: WV
Also, just 2 days ago, my choke does not stay out anymore when its cold. i have to manually pull it out, because it wont stay out.
easy stuff
*always* check electric stuff with a meter to avoid usless new parts.BTW, if it turns out to be the problem, do *not* over tighten the new one. the treaded part is simply pressed into the nut side (impressive terminology, no?) with the interworkings inbetween. I had to remove the whole pump and tear it apart to get the stupid threaded section out. that's ok tho, because i rebuilt the oil metering pump at the same time, and it gave me great access.
When I had a *choke* in my first 83 GSL, It was broken.
I took the **** off, and filed a small "channel in the back side of the ****.
Put the **** back on.
Then I could use a quarter (or a nickel) to hold the choke out for me until I felt it was warm enough.
I took the **** off, and filed a small "channel in the back side of the ****.
Put the **** back on.
Then I could use a quarter (or a nickel) to hold the choke out for me until I felt it was warm enough.
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