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FC oil cooler in 79?

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Old 03-06-22, 12:31 PM
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FC oil cooler in 79?

I have the typical front mount oil cooler bung crack, was welded but wasn’t done right or it gave way.
Will an FC cooler bolt right in?
Thanks for any guidance.
Old 03-06-22, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mwpayne
I have the typical front mount oil cooler bung crack, was welded but wasn’t done right or it gave way.
Will an FC cooler bolt right in?
Thanks for any guidance.
Yes and no. I use FC coolers in my race car, you don't have the boss cracking issue, and they are much easier to find. They fit in the same basic space, but the mounting and plumbing are completely different. In a race car where you can fabricate new brackets and you are making new AN hoses anyway they are a great choice, but they are not a drop in solution.
Old 03-06-22, 05:28 PM
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You can have the factory bungs removed and replaced with -10AN. This does require TIG welding them in. You would also need to make up or buy new hoses with -10An fittings. I like to make my own.
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Old 03-10-22, 09:06 AM
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Not a straight fit but as mentioned I also have an fc cooler in my race car fb and I just got the combination of fittings and hoses from racing beat and fab'd a mount for it.
Old 03-10-22, 09:26 AM
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Old 03-14-22, 02:09 PM
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Thanks all! I’ve decided I’ll probably get this one welded for simplicity’s sake.
If you were me would you get it ultrasonic cleaned? If so where, doesn’t seem to be anyone around here that does it.
Old 03-14-22, 02:38 PM
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I don't think you need it ultrasonic cleaned...but it can't hurt. If you do want to clean it, remove the T-Stat first. Just remove the big nut on the bottom and the T-Stat and spring comes out. You will need a new crush washer. Remember the order and orientation when taking it out though. Once you have the T-Stat out, you see how easy it would be to clean if you want to/
Old 03-14-22, 04:59 PM
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I am not sure what you mean by "get this one welded"? If you are going to try and reuse the existing threaded bung, I think just welding it up may be a difficult solution. One because you haven't eliminated the stressed configuration with the threads inside and two because fully welding the crack may screw up the internal threads. If you use Kansas City's suggestion of cutting off the bungs and adding -AN fittings, I am sure you will be successful. I have done it to a couple of times (not because they failed, but because I needed spares for the race track) The -AN fittings also eliminate the stress on the threaded bungs (mainly since they are no longer there). You can actually weld up the bungs and add the -AN fitting to the end if you want.

Good luck :-)

Carl
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