brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

i want to replace my copper radiator with an aluminum unit but i dont need a fancy one and i have read and seen pics b4 of some guys that have swaped in a fc aluminum radiator can someone post a thread or pics of there acomplishments. i tried the search function but didnt get much luck.

Feds

To instal mine, I cut the slanty part off of the upper fitting so that it went straight out, then I removed the old rad and bolted up the new one.

The lower hose was made from some 1.5 inch aluminum tubing and some corners cut off of a random candian tire rad hose.

It is really quite easy if you look at it.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

it was at an angle right just like fc?? did you notice any cooler temps from it?

Feds

Nope, mine is straight up and down, that is why I had to cut the upper fitting on the rad. there are holes on the FC rad that correspond to the mounting holes on the FB.

And yes, the car runs MUCH cooler with the FC rad. If I am moving at all, my fan never kicks in, and it's about 10 minutes before temps start to get over 1/2 way when idling.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

What brand Radiator did you use Feds?

blueskaterboy

hmm... would an FD radiator be an improvement and does anyone know if it will fit in there? im getting a koyo for my FD so i was thinking i could upgrade my FB radiator for free.

Feds

I use a Mazda brand rad from an FC.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

any aluminum radiator would be better than our copper ones it is better at cooling than copper and it holds more fluid alos benifit from 1 less electrode to create corrosion in our motors.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

whos got some pics of the install and maybe a list of **** ill need i have tools what materials do i need certain hoses aluminum for brackets anything.

toxic_d

the aluminum rad would be lighter but unless it has more surface area it would not cool any better... copper is a better medium for heat absorbsion.

Toxic_d

alien_rx7

I'm working on installing an S5 (FC) radiator in my FB right now. Love that slant radiator in engine bays with an electric fan on top of it. Opens the engine bay right up and looks much, much better. Sorry no pics yet as all my parts are in MO and I moved to MI for a job. Going back down possibly next month to pick up the parts then I will have pics shortly afterward.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Trouble ya for some pics, especially where you mounted it... I thought the FC radiator is longer than the 83-85's...

What oil cooler are you running? The SE/FC front mounted style, the 1st gen under teh radiator style, or the craptacular beehive?

cosmicbang

Pure copper does have better thermal conductivity, and diamond is even better; but there is a lot more to a radiator than conductivity alone. The key to a radiator's heat transfer is the external interface between the surrounding air and the metal, and internally between the coolant and the metal. The solder used to attach fins to copper tubes limits heat transfer, and causes corrosion. Historically, aluminum has been easier work with and attach the fins. (And the copper Industry is heavily promoting its CuproBraze technology.) Many other factors such as fin design are also involved.

Nevertheless, how well the radiator is engineered and manufactured has a more direct effect on bottom line performance. The best materials in the world will not make a poorly engineered radiator perform well, and conversely good engineering can offset a metal's thermal properties. Regardless of the materials and technology employed, what matters in the real world is how well the radiator cools (weight, durability, and repairability are other factors to take into account). How the radiator is mounted in the car, and airflow through the radiator and out of the engine compartment are similarly important.

The debate on this subject which will probably never end. You can read more on the http://www.eng-tips.com forum and find some interesting papers at http://www.adtherm.com/

Pele

iTrader: (28)

But I'd be willing to wager that Fluidyne, Modine, or some other well known radiator manufacturer has a higher quality, batter engineered radiator than the Taiwanese, Mexican, or other cheap radiator I can get at Advance Auto Parts... Unfortunately, those manufacturers don't make a radiator for the 1st gen.

Additionally, the 2nd gen radiator is designed to cool the 13B Turbo engine, so I assume it's got better cooling capacity.

Finally, as someone else pointed out, and as something I've been looking for, the Aluminium radiator eliminates one of the electrodes in the cooling system. This'll reduce the corrosion and buildup that occurs over time.

However if there's a good quality copper radiator available, I'd be willing to look at it.

cosmicbang

Fluidyne does not, but Ron Davis makes one, and he is the best (or one of the best).

Not to disagree, but what do they say about assuming? The 3rd gen radiator was designed to cool that engine too, There is no guarantee the same radiator will cool the same engine equally in a different mounting configuration: consider all the different vehicles with the same engines and different radiators. The 2nd gen radiator may work just fine.

Aluminum is definitely not immune to internal corrosion and buildup. It is also susceptible to external corrosion from road salt, more so than copper. Both copper and aluminum have their strengths and weaknesses, and with either type you should be careful to use the proper type coolant, demineralised water, and flush regularly. I know of one race team (not RX-7) that uses a copper radiator and they say it is only slightly heavier. They chose it because that particular radiator provided better cooling, not from any predisposition towards copper.

The radiator works best when attention is given to the installation and airflow through the radiator and out of the engine compartment. Years ago many people used the 1962 Corvette aluminum radiator, which worked well. I have no experience with a 2nd gen radiator, but I can recommend Ron Davis and the Mazda Factory Race/Ron Davis/AWR 1st gen aluminum radiators. Otherwise any of the other major racing radiator shops can usually make whatever you specify.

alien_rx7

It may be but would be minor especially when mounting in the same way in the FB engine bay as it were in the FC engine bay.

I know this question wasn't directed at me, but will still comment. I will be keeping the 1st gen under the radiator style for the moment so my modification is including this. I would, however, like to eventually switch to the FC oil cooler too since my FB cooler is starting to leak and the spare I thought I had was trash according to a very reputable radiator shop I took other stuff to be worked on at.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

my 2 revs ... here goes ...

the stock Gen II radiators, in my experiences, cool slightly better than a Gen I in good condition. i can vouch for the stock Gen I and stock Gen II radiators working fine up to 200 HP (flywheel). we haven't made more power than that (my brother's car) but there was a marked difference in where his temperature gauge stays after he installed the Gen II radiator. i figured it doesn't get any better than that without actually numbers to back it up - the same car, same engine and same setup with the only difference being the radiator.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

it holdds more fluid therfore a better cooling capacity plus its aluminum which displaces heat inherintly better than copper it is better. thats all i know. now my next question is who has a good one they will sell i live in wa.

kleinke

no offense but you are incorrect about that.

steve84GS TII

The 2nd gen rad install can be trickey if you want a slant.The trick is supporting the bottom and avoiding contact with the engine,but still having enough slant to clear the hood.It WILL require removing permanent sheetmetal,so theres no going back.I used a stock FC rad until I got my Howe double pass unit.The bottom sits on the frame rails on top of foam blocks I made and rivited to the frame.The top is rivited to the remaining stock sheetmetal.Cools very well and looks nice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01389.jpg

rotary emotions

mine's in without removing sheetmetal. I did have to make a custom bracket and will need to build custom ducting, but the car itself stays unaltered.
that said, I'm already thinking about modifying it again, but that's another story.
I must add that I'm using a NA radiator, not a turbo one. Not sure about the USA models but overhere these are different, with NAs having the filler cap on the thermostat housing.

alien_rx7

I'm not sure if there is a difference between the Turbo and N/A radiators either but the S4 radiator has the filler on the thermostat housing and the S5 radiator that I have sitting in the garage has the filler on itself. I do not know what car this one came out of, it was given to me by a fellow owner for my mock up in the FB since it was of unknown condition also.

As far as removing metal. Just eyeballing it, it does appear that some metal will be removed but not that much. The bolt in brackets in the FB will be cut and re-bent to match the original FC angle and if it does indeed touch or appear to touch the bottom of the engine (12a in my FB still) then they will also be trimmed to move the radiator forward. The upper panel that is also bolt in will be removed and trimmed, then reinstalled too which at this point it may be removed completely as it appears the top of the radiator will rest at the front of that spot against and just below the back edge of the valance between the headlights.

BTW, thanks for the pic steve! Nice engine bay. What twin fan is that?

steve84GS TII

I think its a flexilite twin line.Plenty of airflow,but not very compact.