I found my '85 still had its original rebuildable front struts, so I decided to experiment with reconfigure them to 90/10 style valving. While you might be able to install 90/10 style cartridges in the struts, converting to cartridges reduces the front suspension's available travel, which is a step in the wrong direction if you launch frequently on low traction Mexican backroads. First, I experimented with disc stacking on the piston but wasn't getting the result I wanted. When I flipped the pistons upside down, that's when I started making progress. Stacking the disc valving much like a one-way valve was too effective, but after removing the piston seals I got the results I was looking for. Sorry, I took no pics of the strut valving modifications which I did around 20 years ago.

I also replaced the front strut rod's rubber front bushings with rod ends. This modification allows the front suspension to move more freely at the extremes of it's travel, instead of binding up prematurely which limits weight transfer. My '85 FB is mostly a Street/Strip car, so I wanted to free-up the front suspension to get quicker weight transfer. Basically I cut the threaded end off, then replaced it with two plates that were welded on to accept the 3/4" rod ends. At the chassis end, I machined some large diameter aluminum washers to fit in where the rubber bushings used to go...



The next modification is a simple one, lowering the front suspension upper strut mounts with spacers. This allows the front suspension to drop farther, which helps get the front up higher to increase weight transfer. These are simple 2" long sections of 1" diameter aluminum rod, which have been drilled/threaded on both ends. They screw onto the upper strut mounts existing studs, and then bolts screw into the top of the spacers thru the holes in the strut tower...



After installing the strut spacers, I then needed to adjust front ride height back to near stock. This was partially accomplished by reducing front spring rate, the rest by adding adjustable spring seats. I decided to use a couple SA rear springs, which have a 101lbs/in rate instead of my FB's stock front springs which had a 121lbs/in rate. Because these springs did not taper down like the FB's original front spring, I also made some larger diameter lower spring seats that slide over the body of the struts. Here you can see both the larger lower seats, as well as the threaded upper adjuster...



From there, I decided that I could lose some weight if I fabricated some new tubular lower control arms and a new front crossmember. Because I was now using motor plate style front engine mounts, I no longer needed motor mount pads on the crossmember. In the end, I fabricated the crossmember, both lower control arms, as well as lighter aluminum strut rods...



I also made new sheet metal front chassis brackets for the strut rods, they bolt into the same place as the originals and have two holes for the rod end which allows me to stagger the front tires to gain a little roll-out if I want to...



Another thing I did to remove some weight from the front was to make some strut bars to replace my electric headlight motors. These were made from 1/4" x 1" aluminum bar stock. Although much lighter, now I have to raise the headlight's manually...



After 1-3/8" mini-tubs and radiusing the wheelwell openings so I could lowering the car, here's how it sits now after I removed the 2" strut spacers up front and went to simple 1/2" thick spacers machined out of Delrin...



Here's the car's ride height before the new rearend, necessary for stock wheelwells/openings to clear the 275/60 radials on 8" wheels...



Here's how much front suspension travel I get with re-valved original struts...



Grant