FB Makes Screamin noise at 5000rpm...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
FB Makes Screamin noise at 5000rpm...
Yeah its what the title says, I know my car redlines at 8000 rpm but my car makes a sreaming noise at 5000 rpm, I never gone past 5000 rpm because i didn't want to hurt my engine since i didn't know if that was normal or not.
So if thats not normal, please help me fix this lil problem. If not, I wont worry about it.
So if thats not normal, please help me fix this lil problem. If not, I wont worry about it.
Yeah mine just started doing this as well. I didn't know if I wanted to just drop the motor and rebuild it or look into the problem specifically.
I was searching and had a thread about checking all fluid levels. Make sure they are okay.
I was searching and had a thread about checking all fluid levels. Make sure they are okay.
does it make the noise when you throttle it by hand with the hood open? or only underload?
have you checked all your vaccum lines and junk for a loose connection or cracked hoses?
How long ago did you change your airfilter?
just need more details, dont know what it might be.
have you checked all your vaccum lines and junk for a loose connection or cracked hoses?
How long ago did you change your airfilter?
just need more details, dont know what it might be.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
I'm goin to check my belts and hoses (i think they might be the original ones when the first owner bought this car...) when it gets light out again but the most detail i can tell you that it runs really good until i hit 5000 rpm and then it SCREEEEEE!!!! My Air fillter looks clean. I give yall more details about my belts/hoses when i get a chance
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+1 check it see if its loose if so tighten it up if it feels tight take some irish spring (any bar sope) keep the bar dry and rub down the inside of the belt. spin the motor over by hand till the whole belt is coated.. if the sound goes away go and by a new belt
or ride around with that 1 till the sound comes back and repeat
cheers PaTricK
or ride around with that 1 till the sound comes back and repeatcheers PaTricK
If you've removed the air pump, then it's most likely the alt belt. If so, then it's time for a yoohoo belt or dual sheeve alt pulley. If the belts are original, replace all of them.
Sounds like a belt to me as well. When I took the air pump and A/C belts off it was about a month or so later and it started squealing really bad on me. I just replaced the belt and good thing because it was pretty bad. Never had an issue running a single belt after that, the motor actually sounded stronger through the RPM range than it had previously. Oh and the FB's redline at 7K. 8K is a little overkill as usually there is no power up there
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
Everything under the hood is completely stock from 1985.... its just my belts. i'm going to talk to this guy about new belts soon as i get some more time on my hands. thx for yall help. if that dont fix the noise, i will revive this thread
+1 on the belt. The sound you're describing sounds more like a belt being loose/worn. Not uncommon for them to sound off only at certain RPM. The belt could only sustain so much RPM before it decided to let you know what was going on. Good luck.
Mine does it too. It is definately not the belt. I beleive that it is the gasket at the base of the carb that is sucking air at high rpm. I know that it is not the belt because my belt screeches now and then, like when I have been running on the interstate and then get off an off ramp and stop for a light. When I take off again, the belt will screech a little because the clutch fan has kicked in. Then when I hit about 5500 rpm, the other screech starts making noise as well.
I know mine is sucking air somewhere, because no matter what I do to it, it will not idle below 1500 rpm (1100 with a/c on). I have tried different methods of finding it, but am not able too. One of these days, I'm just going to pull the carb and check everything.
Later,
Bill
I know mine is sucking air somewhere, because no matter what I do to it, it will not idle below 1500 rpm (1100 with a/c on). I have tried different methods of finding it, but am not able too. One of these days, I'm just going to pull the carb and check everything.
Later,
Bill
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, South Carolina
Mine does it too. It is definately not the belt. I beleive that it is the gasket at the base of the carb that is sucking air at high rpm. I know that it is not the belt because my belt screeches now and then, like when I have been running on the interstate and then get off an off ramp and stop for a light. When I take off again, the belt will screech a little because the clutch fan has kicked in. Then when I hit about 5500 rpm, the other screech starts making noise as well.
I know mine is sucking air somewhere, because no matter what I do to it, it will not idle below 1500 rpm (1100 with a/c on). I have tried different methods of finding it, but am not able too. One of these days, I'm just going to pull the carb and check everything.
Later,
Bill
I know mine is sucking air somewhere, because no matter what I do to it, it will not idle below 1500 rpm (1100 with a/c on). I have tried different methods of finding it, but am not able too. One of these days, I'm just going to pull the carb and check everything.
Later,
Bill
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
OK, I'm going to have to bring this thread back from the dead. I finally got new belts and i let sears put them on since i work there and get a discount. When I was at sears my car was alright but as i was driving it i noticed it was idling abnormally. It idles at a steady 2k rpm. it never did that before now. but it has me worried. could yall please help me out again? i hit search but it didn't bring up anything that sounded useful to me
p.s. that noise went away.
p.s. that noise went away.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
There are 2 camps on the EFI system on the SE's; 1) chuck it and get a carb - usually stated by 12A drivers who have never experienced 13B EFI performance, and 2) stick with factory design and clean/lube everything to get it back to 'new' running condition. I am of the latter...
Along that line, I'd suggest reinstalling the rat's nest using the hose diagram on the inside of your hood. Once you have this hooked up, you can likely fix the 'surging' problem (revs to 4000, then, once warmed up, surges from 1500-3000 every second...) by removing the Throttle Body and cleaning everything out thoroughly. Surging is usually brought about by cold weather and the 'thermowax pellet' that you eluded to in your first post - this pellet is used to function as a choke for the EFI engines to reduce air intake and provide a rich mixture to keep the engine running when cold out. Oil the throttle body shafts for the butterfly valves (primary and secondary), and you should be good to go.
As a last resort, I'd check the Throttle Position Sensor setting to ensure that it's set correctly, and then start it up. All the factory systems, when clean and functioning properly, keep the idle at 800-900 rpm, rock steady, rain or shine, day or night, hot or cold - if yours doesn't, you just need to track down what's causing it to miss a beat. Good luck, and I hope you stay with EFI...
Along that line, I'd suggest reinstalling the rat's nest using the hose diagram on the inside of your hood. Once you have this hooked up, you can likely fix the 'surging' problem (revs to 4000, then, once warmed up, surges from 1500-3000 every second...) by removing the Throttle Body and cleaning everything out thoroughly. Surging is usually brought about by cold weather and the 'thermowax pellet' that you eluded to in your first post - this pellet is used to function as a choke for the EFI engines to reduce air intake and provide a rich mixture to keep the engine running when cold out. Oil the throttle body shafts for the butterfly valves (primary and secondary), and you should be good to go.
As a last resort, I'd check the Throttle Position Sensor setting to ensure that it's set correctly, and then start it up. All the factory systems, when clean and functioning properly, keep the idle at 800-900 rpm, rock steady, rain or shine, day or night, hot or cold - if yours doesn't, you just need to track down what's causing it to miss a beat. Good luck, and I hope you stay with EFI...


