plentymoon

Ok so my fan seems to have stopped working cause i can't even tell if kicking in or even hear it when its kicked on cause im running hotter then normal. i've checked my coolant and its like a goddamn swamp in there not even green anymore needs to be flushed really bad.

Have a slight coolant leak on one of the rear coolant hoses. probably gonna replace most of the old ones all together. (should I get a nice aftermarket radiator? I mean not right now but soon be better for cooling?)

now as for questions who offers the best electric fan for a decent price tag?
who offers the best aluminum radiator for a decent price tag?
Should I wear underwear to work tomorrow or just go commando?(can ignore this one lol just tired is all.) XD

anyways im gonna get my coolant flushed this Saturday I guess. and I need to put up some photos of my car and a couple of newer gauges I put in I think I have a nice grounding issue but can't seem to locate it cause non of my cab lights work now (Probably a fuse) and try to get the the lights to in general stop blinking when I use my signals on my gauges. xD

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Seems to me it would be prudent to replace all coolant hoses. While they're out take the radiator to a shop for treatment. Would also be a good time for a thermostat and maybe even a water pump.

I recall reading a thread about fan clutch renewal. I'm sure a search would turn it up. If you want to go electric there are threads concerning the Ford Taurus and 1st generation Mr2 fans and their installation.

plentymoon

the reason why
I say most of them is because a few of them have already been replaced
I can understand the water pump and thermostat but I think im gonna just replace with an electronic fan to free up the last bit of engine power.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

It took me ordering 3 clutch fans to find a good one (Atkins hooked me up). They were all seized and sounded like a jet engine. I would do a total cooling system rebuild. Have the radiator rodded out at a shop. Replace the water pump (a new one is too cheap not to). New OEM MAZDA thermostat only. New hoses all around. Power wash the AC condenser fins. Buy a dual belt alternator pulley and replace both belts.

Often over looked is the oil system. Upgrade to a front mount oil cooler and replace the lines with steel braided ones.

A Taurus Efan is a good upgrade, direct fit, sort of. You will want to upgrade to a 2nd gen alternator to help power it though.

plentymoon

Yeah ncross sounds good I will try to get some of that done this weekend but I can't take the car offline just yet. I will look into the front mount oil cooler because the beehive one seems to run pretty hot.

As for the clutch fans I have a spare one from a 2nd gen that works perfect but I will just replace it with an electric one. Also my alternator is replaced already and can put out more then the stock one could.

And blets, plugs,wires, distributed are already replaced before I had bought the car. They maybe only have about 2 months on them accept the NGK Wires I just did those. Right now it's mostly just the cooling that has the problems or is starting to. I will probably make a better thread on it in about a week and a half from today.

Also found out my master and slave are still good looks like some water got on it and I had kinda let my eyes fool me abit.

plentymoon

On a side not I have no a\c connected to the car so I'm not worried about that one. I'm pretty much getting rid of all emissions on the car cause I don't need them. Same with the air pump. And so on and so fourth

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

I was reading through one of the factory service manuals the other day... (for fun no less) and it outlined a check to determine if any oil is leaking into the coolant system to determine if the coolant seals and/or passage ways in the engine are sound. I is in the "Rotary Engine Overhaul Criteria 1979" manual. Can be found on foxed.ca look for section 2 which goes through "overheat" situations.

I think the gist of the check was to see if any pressure was being put into the coolant system from compression that should have been contained in the housings. If there is an internal coolant leak, some pressure, oil and gas could be working its way through the coolant system all the way to the coolant overflow reservoir. Does your overflow reservoir smell of gas?

If you are seeing oil/gas in the coolant, guessing this from the swamp comment, this might be a reasonable check to perform before putting new parts on the engine that may end up with the same issue you find yourself in now.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

It could also just be rubber residue from original decomposed hoses. Kind of like what happens to your brake and clutch fluid. See what it smells like. If its coolant seals it will boil out of the overflow tank and have an exhaust gas smell. No mistaking it.

erick31876

iTrader: (8)

I got a 3 row aluminum radiator off of ebay for 129

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Hopefully, it's not orange. Orange (rust-colored) coolant is a bad sign of some PO running water without adequate AF mixed in, and rusting the water passages in the end plates. If it gets too bad it can undermine the coolant seals.

plentymoon

Ok sorry if I sound rude but most what's being said is maybe a misunderstanding I'm gonna make a video and post it to YouTube tonight and just show you and speak out what it wrong with my own words cause I can tell I'm having a hard time getting what I mean across. I apologize but please be patient and I will make my thread much more understandable

plentymoon

now
I kinda ramble on about other things but I think that might be a little better.

and basically im just saying its running hotter then normal.
The car is not ever heating or anything. Its just running about 15-30 degrees higher then normal and its making the temp gauge show at about the halfway mark which has not been normal since I bought the car.

Usually the car stays down to about 1/4 on the temp guage so I will also get a new thermostat so don't worry.

my 2nd gen mazda always ran that high on the gauge and only seemed to get hotter.

But that was on a crappy rebuild and probably from it just sitting for 6 years on almost zero miles.

things I will get:

1. an Electric Fan

2. Aluminum Radiator

3. Coolant hoses

4. New coolant

5. New oil cooler set up (research Required.)


and I saw the part where I should do an oil cooler swap highley considered but I will do some research on that one first so I get it down right the first time.

after all is said and done anything exhaust is coming off and being replaced for rotary sex noises and fun when the time calls for it.

things will get replaced as money and time call for and I only get one day off a week and that is Saturday other then that I work like a dog. xD

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Oil cooler o rings. New hoses. Engine, radiator, heater core flush. New Mazda radiator cap. Thermostat. Intake manifold gasket and orings. It's all just plain old. In a days work, you'll be good to go.
Edit. The fan, when operating properly, will kick on at idle. When driving air flows naturally through the radiator and it shouldn't need to kick on.

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

To add to cookboy's...
If you are adding hydraulic fluid (clutch or brake fluid) to the clutch master cylinder (the first one you opened up) that should not be needed unless there is a leak in that system. Depends on the level of work and money you want to put in to it, but a couple things might be getting on in age in that system.

There are o-rings that seal the clutch master and slave cylinder pistons, if those start leaking a little bit of fluid can get past the seals each time you depress the clutch. Once the clutch is released, the piston extends and scrapes the little bit of seeped oil to the outside environment and eventually forms a drop and falls on something. Look for a spot of fresh oil below these two cylinders where the piston enters the housing. You can either buy a rebuild kit or a brand new cylinder, up to you and your level of confidence with hydraulics.

The other thing to check is the condition of the rubber hydraulic hose connecting the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder. Over time, tiny cracks form in the sheathing and core (from heat, dry rot, pressure cycles or just plain age) so each time you depress the clutch (apply pressure to system) a tiny bit of fluid seeps from the core into the sheathing. A quick check of this is to wipe down the hose of residual grime, then depress the clutch a few times, then run your clean dry hand along the entire length of the hose from slave to master if you feel new oil seeping out then the hose needs to be replaced.

Mostly depends on how much hydraulic oil you are adding to the clutch master cylinder reservoir and how often. A tiny bit each oil change, try the hose. A tiny bit each gas fill up, check the oil seals. This is anecdotal and results may vary The other thing to keep in mind is how corrosive a solvent clutch/brake fluid is. If is is allowed to sit on paint for any length of time you have bare metal reasonably fast. If it gets on the clutch disc... eek.

That's a long description of only one of the things you described in the video. Sounds like the car is in need of some good preventative maintenance. Overall sounds like a good car.

Oh, question. Did you tape off all the little vacuum ports and other small openings when you pressure washed the engine?

plentymoon

I did tape them off and made sure nothing could really get in.

plentymoon

I shall do as you say cook boy this car was very well taken care of but preventive stuff overall probably never.

but everything will get replaced in do time but I can't afford to do to much all at once either really I have to use the car as a DD and pretty much a mule car for groceries.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Do the hoses, flush, and beehive orings all at once. The beehive hoses have to come off to do the job, the rings themselves are only pennies.
I have no skills and doing everything I mentioned took me about 4 or 5 hours.

plentymoon

yeah I will start off with those things first and go from there cause I think the starting problem is the coolant so a total flush with some nice brand new coolant and hoses might just fix most of that right up.