How do you tell whether the A/C on a 85 GSLSE is factory or dealer installed? Also, if I remain with the R-12 do I need to replace the same components as with a 134 conversion?

 

More than likely, your's is factory. And, as far as the R-12, I can help you with that, because I encountered the same question. You can go to your local Wal-Mart or auto parts store and buy a recharge R-12 kit for about $30. If you were to go to convert to R134A, you'd have to spend about $1000 or so to get a whole new system: condenser, compressor, evaporator, drier, etc. This is what the guy at Merchant's told me, he said to just buy a recharge kit of R12. I didn't know they still did kits for that system, but apparently, they do.

However, I'm going to have my A/C system checked, since it IS the original 21 year old system (I, too, have an '85 GSL-SE), and want to see if my old system can still hold a recharge. Tho, I bet the seals and O-rings are probably shot.

 

they sell a r12 to 134 kit for 30 to 50 bucks. It has the new orings and fittings needed as well as the oil and the 134 freon.

Quick run down -- You will need to have someone evac your system. Then you replece the parts with the new one in the box. Then a vac will have to be pulled on your system. Once that is done then you can add the 134 cans.

If your system is leaking now, you will need to fix that before you do any of the work above or at the same time.

They do make stuff called freeze 12 and some other names are out there that you can just add to your R12 system. That was done to my 79sa and it works good. My gsl-se is getting the swap over.

it don't cost much 50-200 depending on if you can do most of the work, and if you have to replace anything due to leaking.

 

It is very easy to convert over. As long as the current system works fine all you need to get is a new dryer, o-rings and the r-134.

It won't cool as well as a freon system though.

You can also rent the vac pump from Autozone.

 

I thought all 80's Mazdas had dealer or aftermarket systems installed.

 

If your current r12 system works without leaking just stay with it since you're not gonna be filling it up every week. If I had a r12 system I think I would try to remove the high pressure vent valve that they come with and try to use the high pressure cut off switch from the R134 system.

 

What difference would that cut off switch make?

 

The old r12 system would vent the system when the pressure got too high. The new R134 system has a cut off switch when the system pressure gets too high. Thats one of the reason its enviromentally friendly. I wonder why they didn't continue using r12 with the newer technology since A/C with r12 are alot cooler than A/C with the r134 refrigerant. Anyway, if the system is intact and nothing is wrong with it just stick with r12. If you have to make repairs and replace parts, then you might as well convert to r134. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't go out of the way to convert you system if its in good working order

 

If you could actually find me a recharge kit for R-12 I would pay for it plus you and shipping for it cause I can't find one ANYWHERE

 

My understanding is that the GSL-SE A/C was factory installed and the 12A cars were port/dealer installed. There are two A/C systems used (atleast during 84/85). The Nippondenso system (what the GSL-SE has). The other is called Weststar or something.


FirebirdSlayer666: I don't think you can get the R-12. You need a liscense to get it/handle it. Perhaps someplace offers a R-12 replacement. You can convert to R-134a as others have suggested. You need a new dryer, o-rings, and the R-134a. The R-134a doesn't blow as cool as the R12, though. The 1st gen is harder to cool than many cars of its size due to the large areas of glass. I think I will stay R-12 if possible. My system seems to be getting a bit weak. I will be in this position, trying to decide on conversion or not, pretty soon.

 

I got the Conversion from R-12 to R134a for my 84 GS and I didn't change anything. I just added the special can of 134a that have the special lubricant for the O-Ring in and just added that. It works just find and the system dosen't seem to be doing bad. It also gets the sindie cold enough for me to deal with in hot weathers. I don't need to use it often here in Seattle so, I don't put to much stress on the A/C System.

I am not sure if that is a good thing I did but it was cheap and it works alright so, who knows.

 

Its expensive but you can still get R12. Alot of people with classic cars that don't want to convert still get it for their cars.

 

Thanks for all of the feedback. Right now my original compressor has a leak. I have a rebuilt one ready to install. I intend to remain with R-12 because it is very hot here and I need all of the cooling I can get. Should I replace the dryer and expansion valve? Where is the expansion valve?

 

no need to replace the other stuff unless you already took the compressor off and everythings just exposed for long time. Just make sure you evac the system and have vacuum test done to make you don't have any other leaks because r12 is too expensive to just let it seep away

 

I'm just quoting what I was told by the mechanic at Merchant's. I didn't even realize that those kind of kits were available because I knew of the deal with R12, but maybe that's just with the large drums that they now come in. I have yet to look in to see if there IS an R12 recharge kit. I've been preoccupied.

 

If you are spending the money for a reman compressor, at the least replace the reciever/drier, and the $30 for the exp valve while its apart may also be worth it.

You don't really need a kit for R-12, just a can tap.

The cert for buying r-12 is $15-20, and an OPEN book test online.

You can get r-12 here http://motors.search.ebay.com/search...rclo=&saprchi=