expert advise needed
05-10-11, 05:28 PM
#1
83will12a
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expert advise needed
I recently picked up a 12a for free... yes for free. 
When i picked up the engine i checked it to make sure it would turn and it did very freely. It turned so freely I didnt want to tear the engine down, but I did. Long story short little brother did a senior project on the rotory engine. Well now its time to rebuild it. I will attach some pictures of the enigne from when it was taken apart. What i am asking is for all you guys who have rebuilt some engines is this. I am planing on ordering parts from Racing beat, Atkins, and Black dragon. Is there certain parts i should or should not order from certain places. Here are a few pics. if anyone sees anything i should take a second look at please let me know. thanks a bunch...
When i picked up the engine i checked it to make sure it would turn and it did very freely. It turned so freely I didnt want to tear the engine down, but I did. Long story short little brother did a senior project on the rotory engine. Well now its time to rebuild it. I will attach some pictures of the enigne from when it was taken apart. What i am asking is for all you guys who have rebuilt some engines is this. I am planing on ordering parts from Racing beat, Atkins, and Black dragon. Is there certain parts i should or should not order from certain places. Here are a few pics. if anyone sees anything i should take a second look at please let me know. thanks a bunch...
05-11-11, 03:25 AM
#2
Atkins has always treated me well, as has Mazdatrix. Atkins took my calls when I needed to TALK to someone about part ordering and tech Qs, which was appreciated. But-
Rob and Lads at Pineappleracing.com have been amazing. They have several great (free!) on-line tutorials and INSTANT (slight exaggeration, but not much) response to email Qs, and of course, phone calls. These are great folks to deal with and basically all they do is rebuilds and create some cool tools and accessories to do that. Check them out...
Blackdragon - meh- not so much. happy to take your money, zero tech support, in fact I suspect they likely have NO rotary expertise, just sell parts.
Best $$ you can spend would be on a REBUILD DVD such as the one mazdatrix has. Cheapest $30 you'll spend on the engine. Having the OE Service manual is invaluable too as these detail the rebuild with clear pics and step-by-step. Lots of little secrets to doing this right, tho its not hard if you know your way around a wrench.
assuming engine never got overheated (warpage) then biggest enemy is flaking chrome finish on the rotor housing surfaces. usually worst at bottom of chamber. Some flaking is OK but too much writes off the housing - which are now out of production. Pics you posted "seem" to look OK.
AND-
lots of rebuild history and postings HERE so check the Archive section for tips & techniques-
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Rob and Lads at Pineappleracing.com have been amazing. They have several great (free!) on-line tutorials and INSTANT (slight exaggeration, but not much) response to email Qs, and of course, phone calls. These are great folks to deal with and basically all they do is rebuilds and create some cool tools and accessories to do that. Check them out...
Blackdragon - meh- not so much. happy to take your money, zero tech support, in fact I suspect they likely have NO rotary expertise, just sell parts.
Best $$ you can spend would be on a REBUILD DVD such as the one mazdatrix has. Cheapest $30 you'll spend on the engine. Having the OE Service manual is invaluable too as these detail the rebuild with clear pics and step-by-step. Lots of little secrets to doing this right, tho its not hard if you know your way around a wrench.
assuming engine never got overheated (warpage) then biggest enemy is flaking chrome finish on the rotor housing surfaces. usually worst at bottom of chamber. Some flaking is OK but too much writes off the housing - which are now out of production. Pics you posted "seem" to look OK.
AND-
lots of rebuild history and postings HERE so check the Archive section for tips & techniques-
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
05-11-11, 05:21 AM
#3
two things:
1. it would help if you were a bit more specific as to what parts you're ordering from where. generally speaking, i'd probably have to echo 7aull's warning on Black Dragon. the only parts i ever order from them are door seals and other odds and ends. traditionally, i used to order all my engine parts from Mazdatrix, but over the last 2 years or so, i've ordered some of my parts from Pineapple and Atkins, too. so far, no disappointments.
2. photos generally are only going to be useful to a third party if there is something terribly wrong - worn bearings, missing chrome, deep gouges, etc. so while something may "look" okay, it may, in fact, not be. just keep that in mind. clean and measure everything as per the service manual, then feel free to post any questions or doubts you have.
1. it would help if you were a bit more specific as to what parts you're ordering from where. generally speaking, i'd probably have to echo 7aull's warning on Black Dragon. the only parts i ever order from them are door seals and other odds and ends. traditionally, i used to order all my engine parts from Mazdatrix, but over the last 2 years or so, i've ordered some of my parts from Pineapple and Atkins, too. so far, no disappointments.
2. photos generally are only going to be useful to a third party if there is something terribly wrong - worn bearings, missing chrome, deep gouges, etc. so while something may "look" okay, it may, in fact, not be. just keep that in mind. clean and measure everything as per the service manual, then feel free to post any questions or doubts you have.
05-11-11, 01:46 PM
#4
All above good advice. Measure everything as required in the FSM. So long as you're attentive to detail, you're going to be OK.
I wish the motor I paid $400 for last year looked half that good inside.
In addition to the FSM, also download the "How to modify your RX-7" book that's on Sgt. Fox's site. Even if you plan no mods, it's great on theory and "why" info that the FSM does not provide, being more of a cook book.
I wish the motor I paid $400 for last year looked half that good inside.
In addition to the FSM, also download the "How to modify your RX-7" book that's on Sgt. Fox's site. Even if you plan no mods, it's great on theory and "why" info that the FSM does not provide, being more of a cook book.
05-12-11, 06:39 PM
#5
83will12a
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Everything that yall have said is very helpful. Diabolical1 i am looking at purchasing everything i need to rebuild the engine. well i guess i need to order the dvd and repair manuals. thanks you guys for your advise.
05-13-11, 07:48 PM
#6
keep in mind that you can download the actual MAZDA manual ... a few people have links in their signatures (Trochoid, Sgt. Fox readily come to mind). you can download and print what you need. you could also buy aftermarket manuals like Haynes ir Chilton. i prefer Haynes.
about the parts, you can go about it a few ways, but i suppose the simplest would be to order the complete rebuild kit. they're not cheap, but as i said it's the simplest way. you can spec everything and make a list of only the things that need replacing, then order. also, there are some things that you might consider upgrading (for example: corner seal springs), it's your choice.
information and guidance is here. poke around the forum and make the decision that's best for you.
about the parts, you can go about it a few ways, but i suppose the simplest would be to order the complete rebuild kit. they're not cheap, but as i said it's the simplest way. you can spec everything and make a list of only the things that need replacing, then order. also, there are some things that you might consider upgrading (for example: corner seal springs), it's your choice.
information and guidance is here. poke around the forum and make the decision that's best for you.
05-13-11, 10:58 PM
#7
Atkins has always treated me well, as has Mazdatrix. Atkins took my calls when I needed to TALK to someone about part ordering and tech Qs, which was appreciated. But-
Rob and Lads at Pineappleracing.com have been amazing. They have several great (free!) on-line tutorials and INSTANT (slight exaggeration, but not much) response to email Qs, and of course, phone calls. These are great folks to deal with and basically all they do is rebuilds and create some cool tools and accessories to do that. Check them out...
Blackdragon - meh- not so much. happy to take your money, zero tech support, in fact I suspect they likely have NO rotary expertise, just sell parts.
Best $$ you can spend would be on a REBUILD DVD such as the one mazdatrix has. Cheapest $30 you'll spend on the engine. Having the OE Service manual is invaluable too as these detail the rebuild with clear pics and step-by-step. Lots of little secrets to doing this right, tho its not hard if you know your way around a wrench.
assuming engine never got overheated (warpage) then biggest enemy is flaking chrome finish on the rotor housing surfaces. usually worst at bottom of chamber. Some flaking is OK but too much writes off the housing - which are now out of production. Pics you posted "seem" to look OK.
AND-
lots of rebuild history and postings HERE so check the Archive section for tips & techniques-
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Rob and Lads at Pineappleracing.com have been amazing. They have several great (free!) on-line tutorials and INSTANT (slight exaggeration, but not much) response to email Qs, and of course, phone calls. These are great folks to deal with and basically all they do is rebuilds and create some cool tools and accessories to do that. Check them out...
Blackdragon - meh- not so much. happy to take your money, zero tech support, in fact I suspect they likely have NO rotary expertise, just sell parts.
Best $$ you can spend would be on a REBUILD DVD such as the one mazdatrix has. Cheapest $30 you'll spend on the engine. Having the OE Service manual is invaluable too as these detail the rebuild with clear pics and step-by-step. Lots of little secrets to doing this right, tho its not hard if you know your way around a wrench.
assuming engine never got overheated (warpage) then biggest enemy is flaking chrome finish on the rotor housing surfaces. usually worst at bottom of chamber. Some flaking is OK but too much writes off the housing - which are now out of production. Pics you posted "seem" to look OK.
AND-
lots of rebuild history and postings HERE so check the Archive section for tips & techniques-
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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