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Exhaust leaks: which is a good one too use. Do any work for the Rotary?

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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 02:00 AM
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Question Exhaust leaks: which is a good one too use. Do any work for the Rotary?

OK, I have been expiermenting with exhaust patches. So far, none have worked. The Exhaust tape, turned to Blackened chicken and im under exaggerating. I have no clue which one to turn too. You know where the catalytic converter pipe and the flange is welded? Well, mine is welded. The weld was a poor job and it has holes coming out of the pipe. At open throttle it can be compared to open header. (Its about 6 tiny holes but they do some damage).


So I am asking, which brand can you use. Or do I need to get another pipe and replace the original welding. (I did'nt do the welding).


I used the search on Archive but found nothing so here I am.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicholas P.
OK, I have been expiermenting with exhaust patches. So far, none have worked. The Exhaust tape, turned to Blackened chicken and im under exaggerating. I have no clue which one to turn too. You know where the catalytic converter pipe and the flange is welded? Well, mine is welded. The weld was a poor job and it has holes coming out of the pipe. At open throttle it can be compared to open header. (Its about 6 tiny holes but they do some damage).


So I am asking, which brand can you use. Or do I need to get another pipe and replace the original welding. (I did'nt do the welding).


I used the search on Archive but found nothing so here I am.
I think that with the large amount of heat the rotary engine pushes through the exhaust there isn't much out there that's going to work for a long period of time.

It'd probably be easier and more efficient in the long run to just replace the faulty sections.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 03:17 AM
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I guess i'll try to replace the piping where its leaking.
Thanks,
-nick-
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 04:52 AM
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^ it's your best bet at a relatively permanent fix.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 05:52 AM
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Allright, i'll save up for some racing beat piping. Again thanks for the help.

-nick-
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 07:15 AM
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A friend of mine tried to use JBWeld.... it melted off and got permanently stuck on his driveway.

I didn't think that stuff had an upper heat range that low, considering there's a picture of an engine block on the back of the package... but aparently rotary exhaust = the death.

Jon
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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Yeah, the exhaust temps are much hotter then your engine temps. The RB stuff is of good quality but largely overpriced. Unbold the thing, take it to a weld shop and tell them you want a pipe with 2 flanges fabbed up... It will be much cheaper then RB.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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its called fluxcore mig welding.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by vipernicus42

rotary exhaust = the death.
I like that.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Low Impedance
its called fluxcore mig welding.
What is this welding you speak of?
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 07:52 AM
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Just have it rewelded. Fluxcore wire doesn't require a shielding gas. That's where most of the pinhole leaks come from because that type of mig welding leaves a slag. I would go with standard wire and shielding gas, much easier and consistant weld bead.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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I used a paste once on my first rx7 exhaust. Its made to seal cracks in engine blocks or exhaust manifolds. I used it on a small leak I had in the midpipe section, after the cats. Worked.. amazeingly enough. It outlasted the car, I had to take if off the road because I discoverd it was a rust bucket. I really cranked hard on the engine and spun my tires at every chance I got. The car was bone stock and laid down some rubber thanks to the "home grown" posi.

Unfortunaly, I went to buy some early today and the place was all sold out of it. I think it was called muffler meld or something to that effect. It was like some sort of metal that when it got exposed to air would dry up and form a hard seal. The process required you to clean the area completely and then after you coverd the hole.. wait 24 hrs or so.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Just have it rewelded. Fluxcore wire doesn't require a shielding gas. That's where most of the pinhole leaks come from because that type of mig welding leaves a slag. I would go with standard wire and shielding gas, much easier and consistant weld bead.
assuming the material is not rusty what so ever. If the exhaust is not recent, (especially up north) the normal wire/gas shielding is going to be terrible to try and weld. That is my reasoning for the fluxcore, but your right about it making pinhole leaks.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Why not TIG welding instead? I've heard that that's a lot stronger for a weld, usually meant for manifolds and the like because of the strength.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 08:37 PM
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if it was new material then that would work. TIG welding wants nothing to do with dust, dirt, rust or anything else than can obstruct the welds. It has to be clean as possible. MIG welding is more tolerant but fluxcore/stick or ARC is the way to be on those less-than-desireable materials.
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Well thanks for the suggestions. I will do what trochoid said and get the wire welding done. What had happened is that the welding had bubbled up. It was a muffler shop so I thought he would get it on there good but he said "It might not work". I said ok and gave him his 25$. I know what i'll be doing after Christmas.....


Thanks

-nick-
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