or I think igniters...

I recently got my car tuned and smogged. Yay. Purrs (purred) like.. well you know.

At a stop light the car just stopped running (this was after a cold start). Got it towed home, this morning tested:

starter/fine
fuel pump/pumping
battery/full charge

T igniter/firing
L igniter/ NO SPARK

(*note: The engine was not flooded since I have a direct kill switch to the fuel pump and tried to start it with it off to 'clear' the engine of any possible excess fuel - works better than the fuse trick)

So the question is, on start up - are both coils/igniters supposed to supply spark?

You can PM or reply here.

I checked the FAQ's and read something about fingers in a fan and such but nothing specific to this so any input would be appreciated.

!

{to clarify this question is for a 85 GSL-SE 13b stock ignition/electrical}

 

i'm not too familiar with the SE electronics, but as far as i know (atleast true for the 84/85 gsl, gs etc.) you need both ignitors, since the fuel pump is wired into the trailing. and obviously you need the leading, since it's the main spark, the trailing is basically there for enviromental (lack of a better word) purposes. so to answer your question, yes both trailing/leading should have spark.


fingers in a fan* is to test if your e-fan is working, i don't recommend you stick your fingers there, but if you feel you must do it haha

 

Thanks! I'm off to the local junkyard... :-)

 

The engine would not shut off due to the leading ignitor not working. It however would shut off it the trailing died.

Are you sure which is leading and which is trailing?

 

I believe that on the distributor, the leading and trailing are indicated by a T and a L on the cap. Also, in pricing the ignitors, are they also called an ignition control module? On various websites, none of the suppliers have an 'ignitor' but they do have a ICM which looks similiar.

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.j...REGyUEclEIUT0A

 

yes it's also called an ICM you're gonna be paying out the *** for some new ones, i forgot exact price but i know it's well over 100 bucks.

you're in cali, i've always heard of a good supply of 1st gens at the junk yards there, so i'd check those out first, you may also be better off just getting the whole distributor and then taking the ignitors off, idk, whichever works for you best. you can get a good used one for about 40-60 bucks. if nothing else you may also want to look up the DLDFIS and use the gm igniters for it (about 17 bucks each) up to you.

 

Like stated. The engine will not stop running because of a bad leading ignitor.

Yes the cap shows the T & L which designates where the wires go. Just for clarification the trailing plugs are located on the top on the engine. In Case they had been put on wrong before.

 

Thanks! I really want to get this car running (again) but may have to succumb to dealer service if some of this trouble-shooting does not solve the problem of not starting.

Since everything seems to be functioning as desired expect their is no spark from the leading coil, I will try to locate a complete used distributor from one of the local auto wreckers here in S.D, .. unless someone has one for sale here locally.

 

Before you start getting parts that you do not need. :-)

How did you test the fuel pump for output?

 

also before spending big bucks, make sure you're getting power to and from the coil itself, maybe you just have an f'd up coil. make sure the grounds on your ignitors are clean, make sure you're getting power there. all grounds and everything should be clean of corrosion...etc. etc.

 

If you just got it tuned, take it back to the place that tuned it and start asking 'WTF?!!?!"

You might get some useful troubleshooting help that way. Just swapping parts until things start working gets very expensive... and if using used parts, you add a variable to the equation.

Try swapping the leading and trailing igniters, and see if you get spark on leading. Even though you won't get fuel, you'll at least verify if the igniter is bad or not.

 

as the man said test you need them

FYI GM HEI work with a little wiring and are much cheaper

 

Thanks for the help peeps. After 12 years of rotarys, I learned something new (like how a tiny black piece of plastic can keep the 7 from rollin). I lucked out and found a 83 GS in the junkyard with the distributor. Got both the ignitors and installed them on my baby. Started right up.

Thanks again for the input - saved me some dough.