Engine rebuild (What i need to know)
02-19-11, 01:46 AM
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Engine rebuild (What i need to know)
Im thinking about rebuilding my 12A oil starved (currently locked) engine. Was wondering what i need to do this job...would like all input if possible, i know rotating assembly, and bearings, and gasket kit, but where do i get these things? where do i find an e-shaft, and rotors that make balance spec... fyi i live in Arkansas i know 2 people that deal with these cars and they have never rebuilt one, i think i know more about em and im only 20...and both of them are mechanics lol....just some help guys is all i need...its either this or i scrap the car which i dont wanna do cuz it was my first car....
02-19-11, 03:30 AM
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Good luck on your rebuild! Take your time and do your research so you get it done right the first time. There is nothing more frustrating than spending money and then having to go back and redo work and spend even more money, or even worse not be able to finish the project.
02-19-11, 06:30 AM
#3
do you know exactly what caused the oil starvation in the first place? you may want to take the necessary steps to prevent your new engine from suffering the same fate.
1. disassemble the engine, clean and inspect everything
2. check the classifieds and get your replacement rotors and shaft
3. have the rotating assembly balanced (i'm assuming you won't get a matching set in one shot) - that said, while not necessary if you do get a matching set (from the same factory engine), it's not a bad idea to balance it anyway, if you can afford it.
4. get your rebuild kit
only you can decide if you want to undertake the rebuild yourself. it can be done. however, if you're not up to it, or willing to chance a rookie mistake, then find a reputable shop. i don't know about Arkansas, but i know of a few in Texas
1. disassemble the engine, clean and inspect everything
2. check the classifieds and get your replacement rotors and shaft
3. have the rotating assembly balanced (i'm assuming you won't get a matching set in one shot) - that said, while not necessary if you do get a matching set (from the same factory engine), it's not a bad idea to balance it anyway, if you can afford it.
4. get your rebuild kit
only you can decide if you want to undertake the rebuild yourself. it can be done. however, if you're not up to it, or willing to chance a rookie mistake, then find a reputable shop. i don't know about Arkansas, but i know of a few in Texas
02-19-11, 06:58 AM
#4
Before you dissassemble decide how you will organize the seals, you may be able to reuse these and if you do they will absolutely have to go back in the same place and oriented the same way, some places sale a special box to hold them but you can do it yourself. There are enough of them that they will get screwed up if you dont have some plan for organization.
Cleaning all the parts thouroughly is important as is getting the intermediate housings lapped.
Also you will need micrometers to mic everything with to see what is in spec and what is out and a set of telescoping gauges to check the oil clearences.
videos from either mazdatrix, pineapple racing etc would be very helpfull.
I just rebuilt my first one. I took my time so to avoid the rookie mistakes and so far it's running great.
Everytime it cranks I get a warm fuzzy feeling!
Cleaning all the parts thouroughly is important as is getting the intermediate housings lapped.
Also you will need micrometers to mic everything with to see what is in spec and what is out and a set of telescoping gauges to check the oil clearences.
videos from either mazdatrix, pineapple racing etc would be very helpfull.
I just rebuilt my first one. I took my time so to avoid the rookie mistakes and so far it's running great.
Everytime it cranks I get a warm fuzzy feeling!
02-19-11, 12:20 PM
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my procedure is similar to the two above,
1. pull it apart
2. clean clean clean
3. measure everything, there is a page in the back of the FSM (available here foxed.ca)
4. when you measure stuff, and compare to the factory spec, it makes it really simple to figure out what you need to order. since yours had an oil system failure, plan on an oil pump, eshaft and all the bearings
5. order parts
6. clean, paint etc
7. assemble without seals, ie mock up
8. assemble. not a bad idea to check the stuff that goes ON the engine when you're reassembling
9. enjoy!
my way takes a lot longer than some rebuilds, but i feel you end up with a better engine as you at least know everything is in factory spec.
1. pull it apart
2. clean clean clean
3. measure everything, there is a page in the back of the FSM (available here foxed.ca)
4. when you measure stuff, and compare to the factory spec, it makes it really simple to figure out what you need to order. since yours had an oil system failure, plan on an oil pump, eshaft and all the bearings
5. order parts
6. clean, paint etc
7. assemble without seals, ie mock up
8. assemble. not a bad idea to check the stuff that goes ON the engine when you're reassembling
9. enjoy!
my way takes a lot longer than some rebuilds, but i feel you end up with a better engine as you at least know everything is in factory spec.
02-19-11, 04:07 PM
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Wow, this is going to be a long process...hopefully i can find a complete rotating assembly, because id probably have to send it off, ive only got about 1500 bucks to do this, so im on a tight budget...very tight, considering the last engine i rebuilt was a ford 302, and well thats nothing like these engines, except, constant measurements, and cleaning...ohh and what caused it to die was an oil-cooler line ruptured...
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02-19-11, 07:38 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-7-Rotary-Engine-Parts-1ST-Gen-12A-Front-Rotor-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588a4d8e4fQQitemZ38027 7460559QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
found you some rotors. All you have to do is locate some counter weights....
found you some rotors. All you have to do is locate some counter weights....
02-19-11, 09:25 PM
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the rotors are the same from 83-85, they should have an FN and RN stamp in the combustion recess. the 76-82 rotors are just F and R.
02-24-11, 03:05 PM
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I cant get the flywheel off, i made a puller from 5/8" channel and grade 8 bolts, it bent in a u-shape, so i bought a flywheel puller, and broke an ear off it, so anyone have a suggestion...
02-24-11, 04:38 PM
#23
1. Make a flywheel stop that bolts to at least two bolt holes on the back iron and one hole on the flywheel. Or some people will get a long metal flat bar and bolt it to two holes in the flywheel that can be placed on the ground.
2. Lossen the front essentric shaft bolt first before the flywheel nut.
3. Get a 2 1/8 inch (54mm) socket and a long breaker bar and lossen the nut
4. Put the nut back on a couple of turn. This is so that when the flywheel comes off, it won't fall.
5. Use a deadblow hammer and tap the flywheel around the outter edge staying away from the gear.
02-24-11, 04:46 PM
#24
5. Use a deadblow hammer and tap the flywheel around the outter edge staying away from the gear.
You want to make it "ring" like a bell without hitting it hard enough to damage it. Be sure not to hit the teeth or the outer ring. After three or four wacks it will come off.
[QUOTE. Put the nut back on a couple of turn. This is so that when the flywheel comes off, it won't fall.
][/QUOTE]
It will mash your toes !!!!
