Hey guys,
I just picked up a 12a from the junkyard a few weeks ago, the plan is to rebuild it. And maybe do some performance upgrades to it. I have a few questions for the experts.
due to money (or lack there of) I'm going to be taking it apart and cleaning it this summer, next summer is the build, so I was wondering what I should do with all the iron parts... how do I store them whithout having them rust away on me?
Also, are the haynes specks correct (as in the amount of wear allowed before replacement) or should I be looking somewhere else?
And I am converting the 12a to run fuel injection so I need to find a way to make the stock metering pump work, does anyone have a suggestion for me?
On a side note: I hate that flywheel nut! I bought a bunch of tools just to remove it, and nothing has worked... so this weekend im taking out the propain toarch and heating it up. I hope it works! that or im going to cut the damn thing off!

anways, thanks for any help you can give me.
hopefully I will take a bunch of pics of the build and post them up

Mark

 

Wrap in Plastic Wrap till your ready to use them, Also put some Three N' Oil (Machine Oil) all over them this will prevent any rust...A thin layer should work...

*** DONT USE YOUR PROPANE TORCH ON THE REAR BOLT ***
I once had trouble with a used motor getting it apart, the original owner really got it on there so I used a strong flat head screw driver and a huge hammer and made deep grooves on the large bolt...Then hammered away till it loosened up..Also RB has a rear nut tool that works but usually after use they get worn so you need to wrap the bolt up with a thin layer of a rag so it wont slip
For the Metering pump you can just add Two-Stroke oil to your gas tank on every fill up Synthetic 2 stroke i hear works better in mixing with the fuel tank...
Also option #2..grab yourself an old metering pump rod and twist it around so that it hooks up good on your EFI setup everytime the throttle is WOT make sure so is the metering pump, Everytime your car is at idle make sure you have the metering pump to atleast 1/4 way up....I usually max my metering pump out since i rather have smoke out the exhuast then no oil in the combustion

 

thanks for the worning about the rear bolt.... i never thought of pounding it off.... that should work. I was going to heat it because i thought there may be lock tite on there, I was close to breaking my 2 foot breaker bar. I had my 300 lb dad jump up and down on it... and nothing!
where would I get machine oil.... Ive never seen any at my hardware store.

 

You could also smear a thin coat of vaseline on the surfaces. It burns right off upon start up and helps also make a better seal. You are going to use plenty of it during the rebuild anyway.

 

u could put a cheater bar on it like say a 5 footer get some good leverage on it thats what i do what im workin on my helicopter drive shafts breaks em with no problem and they are close to 500 ft lbs of tq

 

lol I tried the cheater bar thing.... but I used an aluminum pole (it was really heavy for aluminum though) and I bent the hell out of it.... but thats definatly a good idea.... I'm just going to have to find a stronger pole I guess

 

1. coat everything in gear oil. that's i've been doing since 1994. a thin film does the job to keep rust away.

2. wire the pump open.

3. take it to a shop and have them pull it if you can't get it yourself. you could also chisel it, but then you'll probably need another one.

 

if u could find a power dyne if u dont know what it is, its use for applying way high tq on nuts bolts ect in up words of 1000+ ft lbs if u can get some like that , that goes in the oppisite direction of tighting it will take it off.

 

The FI 13b's (pre 89) have a lever operated OMP, just like the carb ones. Once you get your intake and throttle body set up, you can probably bend up a new rod.

MMO, engine oil, cosmoline will work for storage. Wrapping the irons in saran wrap will work well, keeps out the dust and dirt too.

 

Ok so here is the update! I'm so excited. I finaly got the flywheel nut off.... it took a 10 foot long iron tube and my 300+ lbd dad stanging on the flywheel bar to get it off. It was a very satisfying bang and then the nut just came off. I have completely torn the engine apart today and it looks really good.... the housings arent burnt, very little wear on them too.... and the rotor housings look nice.... apart from some burnt oil on the very bottom. Is that a problem.... or is that normal? Also, I was wondering if it is possible to acid dip the engine parts to get them clean. I'm sure the rotors and the irons will be fine, but will the aluminum bits get eaten up. And if I cant dip the aluminum rotor housings to get them clean, how do I clean them withouth scraping off that special coating on the inside? I still have no idea what that coating is, the haynes manual says its chrome, but it doesnt look like chrome to me.
lastly, how much am I looking to pay for a full rebuild kit?
I have decided to buy all new internals, since im turbocharging this beast and I dont want my cheepness to destroy my newly built engine.
oh and another thing, when I was taking the engine apart, I knowticed a few of the corner seal plugs were missing, and the corner seal springs were.... well.... not springs at all.... what does this mean in terms of the damage that the engine may have incurred over its life time? if any...

again I cant thank you guys enough for the helpfull info!
The last car I owned (a 1975 corrolla) had no parts and no one knew anything about it. So this RX 7 comunity is a godsend.

 

Corner seal plugs often just disappear, and corner springs will flatten. Use the 3rd gen corner seal springs in your rebuild.

Cost of the rebuild will depend on what you need to replace. Once you spec all of the parts out, you will know. I just spent 740 on an Atkins gasket and rotor kit, along with oil control rings and an oil pump chain.

A good solvent tank will loosen most of the gunk. Pick up the Turentine rebuild video. It shows everything you need to know and how to do it. Well worth the money.

 

Those are made by a company called Hi-Torq. I use them at work almost every day. They are in the range of $10,000. No ****. And depending on the size head you use, they go from 150-10,000 ft/lbs.